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Remove the beards, then wash the mussels well in cold water. Refresh the water and repeat until it is clear. Discard any mussels that are broken or stay open when tapped.
Heat the oil in a flameproof casserole. Fry the onion until very lightly brown, then add the ginger, garlic, chillies, spices, a good pinch of salt and a grinding of pepper. Cook for 2-3 mins until fragrant and toasted. Pour in the coconut milk and bring to the boil, then simmer for a few mins to get everything mixed together.
Tip the mussels into the dish, cover, turn up the heat to maximum and boil for 3-4 mins until the mussels have just opened. Scatter over the coriander sprigs and serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.