If you have time, season the legs, cover and chill for up to 24 hrs to produce extra-crispy skin. Heat the oven to 150C/130C fan/gas 2. Put an ovenproof wire rack on top of a baking tray and sit the duck legs to one side of the rack, skin side up, and roast for 1 hr 45 mins until the skin is starting to crisp and the meat underneath looks pull-apart tender.

While the legs are roasting, lightly score the skin of the duck crown all over and season with salt (again, this can be done up to 24 hrs before). Mix all but 1 tsp of the honey with the citrus zest and juice in a bowl.

When the legs have had their time, remove the tray from the oven carefully and pour all the fat into a bowl to use for making roast potatoes, if you like. Turn the oven up to 220C/200C fan/gas 7, then sit the crown, skin side up, opposite the legs and brush with a bit of the fat. Roast everything for 20 mins, then brush the citrussy honey mix all over the crown and cook for another 10 mins. If the legs are now deep golden and crisp-skinned, lift them onto a board, or cook them for a little more time until you achieve this.

Brush the duck crown with the remaining honey, return to the oven for 4-5 mins, then brush over a bit more. After about 10 mins in total, the duck crown meat should be pink and read 60C on a cooking probe – if you prefer it more cooked, but still succulent, give it another 4-5 mins or take it to 65C. Remove the crown to a board with the legs and leave to rest for at least 10 mins. Carve the crown at the table and serve each person half a leg along with duck-fat roasties, a big bunch of watercress and some gravy (see recipes, below).