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Thoroughly rinse the rice until the water looks completely clear. Drain, then tip into a large pan of salted water. Bring to the boil and cook for 6 mins until just tender, but check after 5 mins. Drain well, cool and chill.
Heat the oil in a large wok and fry the spices until they start to pop. Add the onions, then cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are tender and golden. Stir in the turmeric and chilli, and cook for 1-2 mins more. Cool.
TO BARBECUE: Heat the wok over the coals and, when the onions are sizzling, add the rice and cook, turning until heated through. If the embers are starting to die down a bit, cover the wok with a lid or the wok with a lid or foil to keep in the heat.