Taiwanese stir-fry vermicelli (tshá bí-hún)

Cover the rice vermicelli with cold water and soak for 30 mins. Rinse the dried shrimp and mushrooms, then tip into separate heatproof bowls. Cover the shrimp with 250ml boiling water from the kettle, and the mushrooms with 300ml. Set aside to soak for 20 mins. Meanwhile, fill a large wok or pot with 2 litres water and bring to a simmer over a medium-high heat. Add the cabbage and celery, and cook, stirring, for 1 min. Add the beansprouts, then turn off the heat and leave for 30 seconds. Drain and set aside. Dry the wok with kitchen paper.

Drain the dried shrimp, reserving the liquid, and set aside. Squeeze the water from the mushrooms, pouring it into the reserved soaking liquid from the dried shrimp. Cut up the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps. If the mushrooms are very large, slice in half horizontally, then thinly slice. You should have around 450ml of reserved liquid from the mushrooms and shrimp. If you have less, top up with water or vegetable stock.

Set the wok over a medium-high heat, add 1 tbsp oil and heat until slightly glistening, about 1 min. Cook the pork belly undisturbed for 30 seconds, then stir-fry for about 30 seconds more. Add the carrots and stir-fry for another 30 seconds, then drizzle in another 2 tbsp oil and add the rehydrated mushrooms, dried shrimp, shallots and garlic. Continue to cook until fragrant, about 2-3 min.

Splash the soy sauce around the side of the wok in a half-circle; you should hear it sizzle. Mix it into the other ingredients until everything is evenly coloured and smells slightly nutty and caramelised. Reduce the heat slightly if needed.

Pour in two-thirds of the reserved soaking liquid, add ½ tsp of salt, the sugar and white pepper. Reduce the heat to low and taste for seasoning – the broth needs to be slightly salty, so add an additional ½ tsp salt if needed.

Drain the rice noodles and add to the wok, gently tossing with a pair of chopsticks and spatula. Lift the noodles up to mid-air to loosen. Be gentle, and try not to break the noodles. Add the rest of the soaking liquid, tossing until all the noodles are coloured. The noodles are ready when al dente. Turn up the heat to medium and add the cabbage and celery mixture. Cook, covered and undisturbed, for 2 mins.

Remove the lid and toss with the noodles again. Turn the heat to high and lift the noodles up high again to loosen; keep tossing, checking if there is liquid in the base of the wok. Once all the liquid has evaporated, turn off the heat, add the chives and cover for 1 min.

Toss again, then tip onto a large serving platter. Garnish with crispy shallots and serve with black vinegar on the side for guests to pour on, if you like.