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The day before: make the dressing. Put the oregano or marjoram, a pinch of salt and the garlic into a food processor and pulse to a paste. Add the lemon juice and whizz until smooth. Stir in the olive oil and season – it should be sharp and a bit salty.Cover and chill.
Two hours before serving: bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the asparagus and cook for 3 minutes. Drain and cool under the cold tap. Cover and keep cool.
Put the beetroot in a large bowl and toss with twothirds of the dressing. Add the lemon zest and spring onions, cover and keep at cool room temperature with the remaining dressing.
To serve: add the watercress to the beetroot and tear in the basil. Toss in the asparagus and season with freshly ground black pepper. Taste before adding salt as the cheese is quite salty.Mix lightly, so you don’t dye everything pink, then pile into a serving dish. Crumble over the cheese and pour the remaining dressing on top.