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We eat around 2pm, starting with foie gras and sweet Monbazillac wine – a throwback to when we lived in Paris. Then, we move to the Sri Lankan part: biryani, chocolate biscuit pudding, before Sri Lankan Christmas cake and tea. For our family, biryani is the dish that brings people together. It’s special because it connects me to my Sri Lankan heritage through spices, cashew nuts and curry leaves. The recipe and how it’s made has changed over the years, but it will always be our feasting centrepiece. Ranji Thangiah

For the biryani

To serve

Nutrition: Per serving

  • kcal710
  • fat31g
  • saturates13g
  • carbs68g
  • sugars8g
    low
  • fibre4g
  • protein38g
    high
  • salt0.93g
    low
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Method

  • step 1

    Tip the cardamom pods, cloves and cinnamon into a small frying pan over a medium heat and toast for 1-2 mins until fragrant. Crush to a coarse powder using a pestle and mortar, discarding the cardamom husks. Put the lamb in a large bowl with the tomatoes, yogurt and 1/2 tsp fine sea salt. Add the crushed spices and mix well. Leave to marinate for at least 2 hrs, or overnight.

  • step 2

    For the biryani, blitz half the onion with the garlic, ginger, chilli and coriander in a small food processor until finely chopped. Set aside. Melt 11/2 tsp ghee in a deep-sided, lidded saucepan over a medium heat and cook the remaining onions for 7-9 mins until soft and the edges are golden. Add the chilli powder, turmeric, blitzed onion mixture and a pinch of salt. Stir well, then add the lamb and any leftover marinade. Stir well, cover with the lid, reduce the heat and simmer for 20 mins.

  • step 3

    Meanwhile, bring a pan of 300ml water to the boil. Tip in the rice, cardamom pods and pandan leaf, if using, and boil for 4-5 mins. Drain and remove the cardamom pods and pandan leaf. Set aside.

  • step 4

    Melt the remaining ghee in a small frying pan over a medium-high heat and fry the cashews for 3-4 mins until golden. Tip into a small bowl and set aside. Add the curry leaves to the pan and cook for a minute, then set aside with the cashew nuts.

  • step 5

    Uncover the lamb. Scatter over the rice, cashew nuts and curry leaves. Cover again and cook over a low heat for 20 mins, or until the rice is soft and fluffy.

  • step 6

    Meanwhile, bring a small pan of water to the boil, carefully drop in the eggs and cook for 6-7 mins. Drain well, peel, then cut in half. Stir the rice, cashews and curry leaves into the meat, then spoon onto a serving platter and serve with the boiled eggs on top.

Recipe from Good Food magazine, December 2025

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