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Heat 1 tbsp oil in a wide pan over a medium heat and fry the onion for 5 mins until starting to soften, stirring every now and then. Add the pancetta or bacon and the garlic, and continue to cook until the onions are soft and translucent, about 8 mins. Don’t let them colour.
Tip in the rice and stir to coat in the oil. Pour in the wine and cook until it has been absorbed by the rice, about 3-5 mins. Tip the stock into a pan and set over a low- medium heat to keep warm. Add a ladleful of the stock to the rice mixture at a time, allowing it to be absorbed before adding more. Stir regularly for 15-20 mins. When all of the stock has been incorporated, stir in the cheese and cold butter until these have melted into the rice.
Transfer the risotto to a large container and leave to cool, then seal and chill for at least 2 hrs. Will keep for up to two days. Meanwhile, bring a medium pan of water to the boil and add the cream of tartar, if using – this will help soften the eggshells. Carefully lower the eggs into the pan using a slotted spoon and cook for 7 mins for a just-set yolk. Immediately plunge into a bowl of iced water using a slotted spoon, then leave to stand for 20 mins until cool enough to handle, then carefully peel the eggs.
Beat the milk into the beaten egg and tip this into a bowl, then tip the panko and flour into two separate bowls. Dampen your hands, then flatten a satsuma-sized handful of the chilled risotto into a disc in your palm. Place an egg in the middle, then wrap the risotto around the egg to enclose it, making sure there are no gaps. Roll the egg in the flour, then the beaten egg, then the panko. Set aside on a plate and repeat with the remaining eggs and risotto. Will keep chilled for up to 24 hrs.
Fill a deep saucepan no more than a third full with oil and heat to 180C, or until a few breadcrumbs dropped in sizzle almost immediately and continue to do so for 20 seconds without burning. Alternatively, set a deep-fat fryer to 180C. Carefully lower in the scotch eggs and fry for 5 mins until golden brown. Remove to a wire rack to drain, then slice in half and serve hot with a dressed salad on the side, if you like. Will keep chilled for up to 24 hrs. Leave to cool completely first.
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