B Rodríguez Goyesco amontillado in a nutshell
A young, fresh and highly drinkable style of amontillado. It’s a great all-round sherry, superb with tapas but also works after dinner too.
In Victorian times, amontillados were the most prized kind of sherry. Dickens was an enormous fan. And, of course, Edgar Allen Poe wrote his chilling story A Cask of Amontillado about a man lured to his doom with the promise of a fabulous and rare wine. Part of the reason these wines were so prized is because there were many wines masquerading as them, that were either adulterated, sweetened or didn’t contain any genuine amontillado at all. True unsweetened wine was extremely rare in Britain.
There is a reason for this. Pure amontillados can be quite hard work: mouth-puckeringly dry and salty, they’re not for everyday drinkers. I’ve tried many that would probably have been better in a blend. Not this one though. La Goyesco is a very jolly, youthful take on the style. It’s from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, so it starts off as a manzanilla. It’s aged for five years under flor (a yeast which stops oxidation), and then three years more with oxygen contact, preserving that fresh apple flavour but being joined by notes of orange peel and hazelnut. It’s a very versatile food wine.
The company on the label is Benito Rodríguez La-Cave, which merged with Delgado Zuleta in 1978. Zuleta’s history as a sherry producer dates back to 1744. The combined company produces a wide range of wines, from the classic La Goya manzanilla (named not after the painter but a singer Mañanos Jauffré known as La Goya), right up to the extraordinary 40-50 year old Quo Vadis amontillado, surely a contender for the greatest sherry available today. The Goyesco is much more everyday and all the better for it. It’s a great introduction to the authentic amontillado style.
Lovely sipped with a bowl of gazpacho, it also works with all things porky, like ham croquetas or even a bacon sandwich with brown sauce.
Best sherry recipes
This review was last updated in November 2020. If you have any questions, suggestions for future reviews or spot anything that has changed in price or availability please get in touch at firstname.lastname@example.org.