Want to eat like a local on your next city adventure? Discover the highlights of the Paris, Reykjavic, Berlin, London, Milan and Seville food scenes.
For a city break with a difference, book an apartment where you can live - and eat - like a native...
Best for...Neighbourhood cafes & bistros
The French capital is still a city where locals shop little and often – fresh bread is bought once, if not twice, daily, and every neighbourhood is a foodie microcosm. In Montmartre, you’ll find the ‘bobo’ (bohemian-bourgeois) Rue des Martyrs, where you should stop for coffee or a brunch of Comté, ham and boiled egg at Café Marlette, with its wood and white-bricked walls, or a drink at La Fourmi (standing room only at the weekends).
Go to Rue Caulaincourt to buy chocolate from Arnaud Larher. On Rue des Abbesses, Le Grenier à Pain offers award-winning baguettes, from €2 (£1.75); La Butte Fromagère has plenty of cheeses to try, and La Cave des Abbesses offers a good selection of wines, plus plates of rillettes, meats and cheeses to snack on. Local food markets include Marché Barbès on Boulevard de la Chapelle and the larger, covered Marché Saint Quentin , which is open all week (markets generally operate Tuesday to Sunday – find a complete list at en.parisinfo.com).
When not taking advantage of your kitchen, dine on modern French bistro dishes, such as onglet and coconut crème brûlée from the daily-changing menu at La Balançoire, with mains from about €16 (£14).
How to do it
Citadines has comfortable, child-friendly apartments with kitchens, city wide. The ones in Montmartre have a roof terrace with views over the city, the Blanche metro stop on your doorstep, and Gare du Nord conveniently close for the Eurostar. Sleeping four, they cost from €164 (£137) per night.
Best for... New Nordic cuisine
Known more for the Northern Lights and Blue Lagoon than its foodie scene, Iceland is nonetheless having a culinary moment. Its gastronomic offerings have never been better, and friendly Sigrún’s spacious and tastefully decorated two-bedroom apartment, on airbnb.co.uk, is just a 10-minute bus ride from the city centre.
Start the day at downtown retro café C Is For Cookie, a great local breakfast spot with good espresso and fab cakes, including an incredible cheesecake (from about £3). To keep on the right gastronomic track, avoid the overpriced, bland soups served at many restaurants and search out some rewarding alternatives.
Four-restaurant mini chain Saffran does a wonderful and inexpensive range of healthy and delicious food. Lobster pizza is the must-have item on the menu, at a very reasonable £14. For a more upscale dining experience, go to Fiskmarkadurinn, which serves good cocktails, great sushi and sashimi, and a superb chef’s tasting menu (main courses from £32). After a day of sightseeing, grab bento boxes from Tokyo Sushi and head back to the apartment. This top-notch takeaway is £6 for a small box – great value if you’re on a budget.
How to do it
Rent Sigrún’s apartment from £79 per night (three-night minimum stay).
Best for... Tapas & outdoor eating
Andalusian paradise Seville has everything you need for an incredible trip: sun, photogenic sights and endless food options. The cobbled streets that twist and turn off La Alameda de Hércules are the perfect start. Here, at the top end of the plaza, you’ll find Marta’s cute and compact apartment on airbnb.co.uk, two floors up from a quiet street and filled with arty prints, fun ornaments and elaborately tiled floors.
The area is hip, with hidden bars, endless tapas options and breakfast cafés. Just around the corner from Marta’s is Duo Tapas (00 34 955 23 85 72), which serves inexpensive and delicious small plates. Pick an outside table and try the solomillo de buey (beef fillet), boiled octopus and shrimp tortillitas, from €2.50 (£2.20) per dish. For a simple plate of jamón and an ice-cold beer, head to Taberna Águilas (00 34 637 70 68 68), a short walk from the old quarter’s wooden Metropol Parasol and beautiful cathedral. Vega 10 (00 34 955 23 77 48) in Triana, just across the river, is another must-visit tapas bar, where the salmon & mango tartare is out of this world.
How to do it
Marta's apartment can be rented from £49 per night.
Best for... Markets and city walks
To fully immerse yourself in the London local food scene, book the Tyers Gate apartment, in a converted warehouse near London Bridge, and you’ll be within a short walk of Borough Market.
When hunger strikes, nip out for a cheese toastie, £6, from Kappacasein; treat yourself to homemade pasta, about £7, from Padella; or buy some fresh produce to cook for yourself in the apartment’s small, sleek kitchen. The following day, take a short stroll (or perhaps a longer walk via Tower Bridge, to work up an appetite) to the area around Maltby Street, Rope Walk and Spa Terminus. You can stock up on custard doughnuts from St John Bakery, beer from The Kernel Brewery and cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy.
Nearby is the tiny José Tapas Bar on Bermondsey Street. Bag a seat at a quiet time and snack on hake with aïoli, or fig with sheep’s cheese & honey dressing (plates about £7). Or set your sights higher, quite literally, and head to London’s tallest skyscraper, The Shard. Book a table at Aqua Shard on the 31st floor (mains from £20-40), or try your luck with the first-come-first-served policy at the bar.
How to do it
Onefinestay apartments come with hotel-quality linens, towels and toiletries. You are personally welcomed by staff, who are then available by phone 24/7, and you’ll be provided with an iPhone with free data and local area maps loaded for your stay. The Tyers Gate unit costs from £190 per night and sleeps two to four.
Best for... Fabulous food & fashion
This city’s food scene caters to international designers, bankers and fashionistas who won’t suffer a bad meal. Plentiful rental apartments offer a cheaper alternative to the fashion-branded hotels that have colonised the city.
On the edge of Milan’s mini-Chinatown, Celia’s chic one-bedroom apartment, on airbnb.co.uk, is on the first floor of a classic Milanese casa di ringhiera (a characterful building with an internal courtyard and balconies), within walking distance of the central sights. Breakfast is one meal Italians don’t overindulge in, so have yours before venturing out.
On the same street, La Ravioleria Sarpi is an encouraging sign of new-era Chinese cuisine in Milan, partnered with a local butcher and offering refined dim sum and street-food bites from under €5 (£4.30). Alternatively, walk 15 minutes to Ratana, a modern Milanese bistro in an old art nouveau railway storehouse. Equally good for lunch or dinner, the menu makes little inspired changes to revive Lombardy classics like Milanese risotto with osso buco. Dinner for two starts at about €92 (£80). For pre- or post-prandial drinks, bustling Cantine Isola (Via Paolo Sarpi 30) can’t be beaten. This bar-enoteca (wine shop) is lined, floor to ceiling, with bottles, so you can sip before shopping. The counter heaves with complimentary small plates – there are towers of bruschetta, hunks of parmesan and rainbows of salumi.
For proper shopping, Eataly Milano Smeraldo, in the grand old Teatro Smeraldo, has theatrically arranged pan-Italian produce. The recipe packs are hard to resist: pasta meals, from simple tomato to wild boar, with dessert and paired wines in a chic canvas bag from €29.50 (£25.60).
How to do it
Book Celia’s apartment from £46 per night (sleeps two).
Best for... Adventurous eaters
Bed down in Kreuzberg, a neighbourhood once almost surrounded by the Berlin Wall, to get a real taste of how this city has regenerated. Previously a hub for Turkish immigrants, artists and club denizens, it’s now a superb place to hang out and pig out.
Check into a Homestay apartment hosted by local chef Birgit, and enjoy a simple breakfast of German muesli, croissants, fresh bread and preserves on the terrace, which has panoramic city views. If you are lucky, Birgit will prepare you a dinner of homemade spätzle (traditional German dumplings) at the day’s end.
For a local lunch of lamb cutlets at €16.50 (£14.30), go to Rote Harfe, near Heinrichplatz, or shop at the Turkish market in Maybachufer for great fruit and snacks – jet-black olives, sesame-studded simit rolls and local honey (Tuesdays and Fridays). Later on, head to Kreuzberg’s arterial Oranienburger Strasse. The fun flagship of Berlin’s Amrit mini-franchise serves pan-Indian food and colourful cocktails, with dishes about €8 (£7). A short walk south, in the nearby Berlin Mitte district, try Dottir, which opened last year. Chef Victoria Eliasdóttir, who had a stint at Alice Waters’ landmark Californian restaurant, Chez Panisse, runs the kitchen, serving dishes that draw on her Danish-Icelandic roots. The four-course menu – about €58 (£50) – changes daily but retains a strong focus on North Sea fish. Don’t miss the fresh baked bread with liquid browned butter.
Brunch is a Berlin weekend institution and you will be spoilt for choice in Kreuzberg. Adjacent to Görlitzer Park, Nest, is a leader: the Med-German dishes include everything from cheese plates to cured fish from about €5 (£4.30).
How to do it
Book Birgit’s place from £22 per night (sleeps two).
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