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Light the gas on 2 rings, then lay the aubergines directly on them, 2 to a ring. In 30 secs they will have blackened on one side, so use tongs to turn them until they are well charred on all sides. Alternatively, cook the aubergines under the grill or on the barbecue, turning them until they are blackened all over.
Once done, put the aubergines in a plastic bag. When cool enough to handle, strip away the blackened skin and put the flesh (which should be cooked and soft) in a colander to drain for 30 mins.
Transfer the aubergine to a bowl, then mash with a fork or blitz with a hand blender, but don’t make it completely smooth. Stir in the yogurt, olive oil and a fat pinch of salt, then add coriander, garlic and lemon or lime juice. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice if necessary, but be careful not to overwhelm the aubergine flavour.