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Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Butter 6 individual puddings basins or dariole moulds and line the bottom of each with a small circle of baking parchment. Sit them in a deep roasting tin and boil the kettle.
Place the butter, flour, sugar and zests and eggs into a bowl with a pinch of salt. Whisk with an electric hand whisk until just combined. Stir in the dried fruit, then divide between the moulds. Carefully pour hot water from the kettle into the tin until it comes about one-third to halfway up the sides of the moulds. Bake for 25-30 mins until a skewer pushed in comes out clean. Serve straight away. If making ahead, leave the puds to cool, cover for up to a day, then turn out of the moulds into a microwave-proof dish and microwave, three at a time, for 1-2 mins on High until hot. Turn out the puddings, pour over some of the Nutmeg custard (see recipe, below) and add a grating of nutmeg, if you like.