Aligot

Place the garlic in a small saucepan with the butter, then leave it on the gentlest heat possible to melt and infuse for 30 minutes.

Thinly pare and discard the skins of the potatoes. Boil for 20-25 minutes, until tender in the centre when tested with a skewer.

With an electric hand whisk, switch to slow and begin to break up the potatoes, then add the butter and garlic, some black pepper and a handful of the grated cheese.

Now switch the speed to high and continue adding the cheese, a handful at a time, while you whisk. There's a lot of cheese, but what will happen is that, as you whisk it in, the potatoes will turn translucent and glossy and, as you lift and whisk, it will form stiff, glossy peaks.

When all the cheese is in, serve very quickly. As the cheese goes in, the mixture becomes stiff and clings to the whisk, but keep going and it will part company with the whisk eventually.