Goat "Cheftalia"

Pre-heat oven to 150 degrees/ gas 3

Season the flour with the black pepper and herbs (you can use a generous hand with the black pepper, it will thank you for it). Toss the meat in the flour.

Heat 1 tbsp oil on a high heat in a wide frying pan and brown the meat, in small batches, until brown on all sides. Add another tsp oil between batches if the pan is getting dry. Set aside in a casserole dish when each batch is browned.

When the meat is all sealed, turn down the hob to medium and add the onion to the pan, scraping to make sure you get all that lovely sediment up. Add more oil if necessary. When the onion is softened (give it 4-5 minutes) add the garlic and fry for a minute, max, until just colouring. Chuck in the wine and bubble fiercely for a minute, then add all the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil.

Pour the sauce over the goat meat in the casserole dish and cover tightly. Add an extra layer of foil between the casserole dish and lid if necessary as you'll need a nice tight seal. Sling it in the middle of the oven for at least 2 1/2 hours... But to be honest with goat, the longer you can leave it the better. If you have the time to leave it bubbling gently in a low oven for 4 hours it will be beautifully tender (just watch the liquid levels as you go, topping up with stock to keep the meat covered).

Have a glass of wine.

Serve with simple veg, like plain roast spuds or new pots, and simple peas and spring greens. The casserole is very rich, and won't need a lot of embellishment.