Parmesan wafers

4 big ones: Heat a 20cm good-quality non-stick frying pan. Scatter about 20g of the grated cheese over the base of the hot pan. Watch it melt (don’t overcook or it will taste bitter) then sprinkle in a teaspoon of chopped chives and some black pepper. When the cheese is bubbly and golden, take the pan off the heat and cool for up to a minute, then the wafer can easily be lifted out with a palette knife. Repeat 3 times.

8 little ones: Heat the oven to fan 180C/conventional 200C/gas 6. Line a large baking sheet with non-stick silicone sheet or baking parchment. Sprinkle the grated parmesan in 8 neat rounds using the inside of a 5cm cutter as a guide. Sprinkle some chives and black pepper onto each round. Bake for 5 minutes until the cheese bubbles and turns golden. Lift each round onto a rolling pin, cool until crisp, then lift off.

The wafers will keep in an airtight tin for up to 3 days.