Our weekly food diary shares on-trend ingredients, fun foodie events, Instagrammable restaurant dishes and must-try street eats.
This week we tried...
The perfect balance of sweet and savoury, this week we've been nibbling on slices of quintessentially Scandi cheese. This delectable Norwegian treat gets its distinctive caramel colour from boiling milk, cream and whey until the sugars caramelise. It has a rich dulce-de-leche flavour, although certain varieties use goat's milk to cut through the sweetness. You can try it topped on sandwiches, crisps or biscuit and most indulgently, on top of fresh waffles. Anyone for brunch?
Looking for an exotic way to keep cool this summer? Try an icy Japanese dessert topped with fresh fruit and homemade syrups. We sampled this mango kakigori in Soho at Honi Poké, the first spot in London to start offering this delicate treat. It's made from delicately shaved ice with the texture of fluffy powdered snow, topped with your choice of fresh syrups – strawberry, matcha, mango or guanabana (also known as soursop, a kind of custard apple). Refreshing, light and not overly sweet, we predict you'll be seeing more of this cool confection on the streets of London.
Experimental craft gins are still going strong, with brands exploring sweet, savoury and everything in between. This week we sipped an aromatic acorn gin from Sabores Extremeños based in Extremadura, Spain. Using acorns in the distillation process gives the gin a deliciously nutty, slightly sweet aroma and adds a creamy vanilla taste to the juniper base. Try this delicate Spanish spirit to add elements of toasted hazelnut and cinnamon to your standard G&T. You can buy it online from Lunya, or visit their delis in Liverpool or Manchester.
Last week we tried...
Sheep rustler cheese
You’re looking at the best cheese in Britain. Beating over 1,000 entries at the British Cheese Awards, this semi-hard ewe’s milk cheese, Sheep Rustler, from Somerset-based White Lake was named the overall Supreme Champion. And we can see why – it tastes fabulous! Mellow, slightly nutty and with a hint of caramel, it’s made with heat-treated, unpasteurised ewe’s milk and aged for three months. Now in its 25th year, the competition boasted entries from 147 cheesemakers in 54 British counties and each entry was judged by a panel of 77 people, including French chef and restaurateur Michel Roux, who holds three Michelin stars, and Good Food’s magazines editor Keith Kendrick.
Planning a trip to Finland? We visited Patisserie Teemu & Markus, a small, unassuming-looking café in Helsinki’s city centre. It sells sandwiches, coffee and pastries, including French-inspired patisserie treats like croissants and macarons, as well as traditional Finnish bakes like this rahkapulla. Pulla is a Finnish cardamom sweet bread – usually baked in a plaited loaf, it can also be found as smaller buns, sometimes with a curd filling like this one. The “rahka” in rahkapulla refers to quark, which is traditionally used in the filling, sweetened with sugar and vanilla so it almost resembles crème pâtissière. The bun we tried was a twist on the traditional, with the addition of a sharp burst of passion fruit and a sprinkling of desiccated coconut – a delicious contrast to the creamy sweet filling and subtly cardamom-flavoured bread.
Broad bean leaves
Broad bean season has begun, so you’ll no doubt start to see these little green pods gracing menus in restaurants across the country. But did you know you could also eat the leaves? This starter, on the current menu at The Marksman pub-restaurant in Hackney, London, is made with broad beans and their leaves. Chef and co-owner Tom Harris explains how the dish is made: ‘The broad beans are podded, peeled and served raw, having been briefly brined to season them. They’re dressed with lemon oil and salted lemon, and served with their leaves and a soft cream of sunflower seeds and sunflower oil. The dish is then finished with a bright herb oil – lovage this week, but we also use mint or chervil – and toasted sunflower seeds for texture.’ Like the beans, the leaves have a slightly nutty flavour, and they add great crunch as well as added grassiness to the dish.
Earlier this month we tried...
Sicilian breakfast brioche
When in Sicily, do as the Sicilians do. And if that means eating ice cream sandwiches for breakfast, then we’re OK with that. Yes, a typical way to start the day in Sicily is a brioche bun with either granita or gelato, also known as the original ice cream sandwich (and with the country’s Mediterranean climate, we can understand why). We had this pillowy brioche bun with almond granita and two kinds of gelato at Caffè Sicilia in Noto, Sicily. If you’ve been watching the latest series of popular cooking show Chef’s Table on Netflix, you'll have heard of the café and its co-owner and chef Corrado Assenza. Caffè Sicilia has been in the same family for over 100 years, making excellent pastries, gelato and granita. We tried the chocolate gelato spiced with cinnamon and orange peel, and a tangy ricotta flavour with pistachio nibs – it was some of the best gelato we’ve ever had.
Those familiar with poitín might know it as an Irish grain spirit, brewed illegally at home in certain parts of Ireland, where it was banned for centuries. Legalised in 1997, the spirit is now having a revival, with brands like Micil taking off in recent years. Micil Distillery founder Pádraic Ó Griallais explains: ‘Micil is named after my great-great-great-grandfather and the craft has been handed down from generation to generation. I was the first in the family to be able to make it legally, so I decided to make a go of bringing our family craft to the world.’ And it’s proved popular – you’ll now find Micil Poitín on cocktail menus throughout Ireland, particularly in Galway, Dublin, Belfast, Cork and Limerick. We tried it on a recent trip to Galway. Not for the faint-hearted, the clear spirit is very strong when drunk neat, but its earthy, floral notes make it great in cocktails, particularly with citrus flavours.
Croquettes with oxtail mayo
With their oozy filling and crunchy breaded coating, it’s no surprise that Spanish-style croquettes are common on restaurant menus, with variations on the filling ranging from classic Spanish ham & cheese to spinach and even beef shin. But despite the delicious golden appearance of the cheese croquettes at new restaurant The Jones Family Kitchen in Belgravia, London, it was the dipping sauce they were served with that piqued our interest – oxtail mayo. ‘Traditional Spanish croquettes often have ham inside, but I wanted to make a meaty dip instead and keep the croquettes simple,’ says executive chef Oliver Pollard. ‘We already make delicious slow-cooked oxtail to top our signature chuck burger, and I realised the remaining sauce would make a banging base to a luscious mayonnaise. It pairs perfectly with the cheese croquettes, as the deep umami flavour of the slow-braised oxtail adds extra richness.’
Kimchi fried crab
There’s a new KFC on the scene, and not a chicken in sight. This kimchi fried crab is just one of the exciting new dishes on the menu at seafood restaurant Claw in Soho, London. Tapping into two of this year’s biggest food trends – deep-fried everything and seafood – Claw’s ‘KFC’ uses British crab which is put into a solution of milk and salt water (to keep it crispy when cooked) before being dunked in togarashi spiced flour and deep-fried. The result is a crisp, salty, mildly spiced batter with soft, delicate crabmeat inside. Lighter than fried chicken, it pairs well with the accompanying sweet mayo (flavoured with lemon and Japanese mirin) and tangy kimchi. As well as its London restaurant, Claw’s seafood-based street food can be found at various festivals across the country this summer. Check their website to find out more.
During British Sandwich Week we tried…
Pork belly & kimchi bap
What better way for us to kick off British Sandwich Week than to check out the brand new sarnie shop on the block, The Black Hamburg? The block in this case is Finsbury Park, London – this teeny-tiny shop next to Finsbury Park station specialises in sandwiches and killer kimchi, with a short menu that changes regularly. We tried the latest special: glazed pork belly, house-made kimchi, burnt onion mayo and gem lettuce in a brioche bun. We may have needed a bib to eat it, but the messy ones are the good ones, right? This generously-filled bap had a delicious combination of salty-sweet pork, tangy spiced kimchi and sweet oniony mayonnaise.
Fish finger sandwich
The fish finger sarnie is about as British a sandwich as you can get, especially one that’s made with sustainable Cornish pollock. We had this fish finger roll (amusingly titled The Dog’s Pollock) from Michelin-starred chef Paul Ainsworth’s food stall in the Marlow site of Tom Kerridge’s Pub in the Park food festival. Crisp, freshly fried fish, tangy mustard mayo, crunchy pickled cucumber and dill, all held together in a sweet brioche roll, resulted in the best fish finger sandwich we’ve ever eaten. And that’s saying something. You can still visit Pub in the Park in Bath (8-10 June), Tunbridge Wells (6-8 July) and Knutsford (7-9 September), but chefs and stalls change with each site.
Hot pork chicharrón roll
Peruvian cuisine is here to stay, with more restaurants opening across the country and online searches for Peruvian dishes seeing a huge spike – particularly after the latest series of Masterchef, in which the contestants visited Lima. Ceviche may be the country’s most famous dish, but it’s Peruvian baking that’s now having a moment in the limelight. We visited Andina Bakery, a brand new Peruvian bakery in Notting Hill, London, to try their pork chicharrón roll. Made with freshly baked (we’re talking right in front of you) pan francés, a French-inspired bread commonly used for sandwiches in Peru, it’s filled with pork, sweet potato, tangy pickled red onions and an amarillo chilli mayo. The sweet bakes are delicious too, including fluffy macarons with a guava centre and a Peruvian take on a pastel de nata (Portugese custard tart) using lucuma, a fruit that's native to South America.
Earlier this month we tried...
Mango fans, rejoice – alphonso mango season is here. The short season, lasting from now until the end of June, is cause for annual celebration in India. Why? Because this isn’t just any old fruit. Alphonso mangoes are thought of as superior to other mango varieties, as they’re much sweeter and more fragrant. This month, Michelin-starred Indian restaurant Jamavar in Mayfair, London, is celebrating the fruit's arrival with a special menu, using the mango in several of their dishes. Highlights include a cocktail of gin, alphonso mango, coriander, lime juice and a shaving of coconut, and a starter (pictured) of beautifully spiced aloo tikki (potato cake) with honey, yogurt and white radish, served with a raw alphonso mango and mint chutney. The mango adds a refreshing sweetness that perfectly complements the salty, spicy potato cake. Look out for alphonso mangoes in your local greengrocer – they’re the ones with the golden skins.
Lavender & honey ice cream
Floral flavours are so hot right now. Or so cold, as the case may be… We’re seeing flavours like rose, lavender and elderflower appearing much more, not just in cakes and drinks, but in ice creams and sorbets too. We tried lavender ice cream with honey and homemade honeycomb at London’s Four Winters – creamy, sweet and heady with lavender, the ice cream pairs well with the drizzle of honey and crunchy honeycomb pieces. Jude’s has also recently launched a limited edition rose-flavoured ice cream (available this month only at The Pear Tree Café) and Gelupo is serving up kiwi, gin and elderflower sorbet. Fancy making something floral and frozen? Try our lychee & rosewater ice cream or gooseberry & elderflower yogurt ice.
Following a recent rise in artisan tonics, craft vodkas and an ever-expanding range of vermouths, it's no surprise that amaro is getting an update too. Amaro is an Italian bitter liqueur which makes a great digestif, and this version by Mr Black is no exception with its deep, indulgent coffee flavour. Made with toasted coffee and infused with botanicals such as orange and caraway, it has a complex flavour which, like other more traditional amaros, means it works beautifully in cocktails. We recommend serving it with soda water, ice and a wedge of orange, but it could also work well with a splash of dry vermouth and a cardamom-heavy gin in a negroni-style drink. You can buy it online here.
Earlier this month we tried...
Strawberries & cream
Yes, this is strawberries & cream, but not as you know it. Renowned pastry chef Dominique Ansel, creator of the Cronut, recently launched afternoon tea at his bakery in Belgravia, London. Between rounds of inventive savoury and sweet bites came a course of scones with strawberry jam and clotted cream. Sounds traditional enough, but what if we told you that the jam and cream came inside a strawberry? The fruits in the photo aren’t real strawberries at all – they’re made with a thin layer of carefully shaped, coloured white chocolate, filled with clotted cream and homemade strawberry jam. Genius. Place one on your warm, fluffy scone and it becomes instantly spreadable, leaving you with the perfect amount of cream, jam (so fresh that it tastes more like strawberry purée) and a hint of sweet white chocolate on your scone. It’s utterly delicious. Full review coming to BBC Good Food’s afternoon tea guide soon.
Chef Greg Marchand (of Frenchie restaurant) says biscornue de Roques-Hautes, also known as a wonky Roques-Hautes asparagus, fits perfectly with his ‘natural cuisine’ ethos. Failing to fit the norm (and possibly quite tricky to bundle), these spears grown in Senas in the south of France previously went to market to less fussy customers – now they head to Frenchie. The curve happens if the young spear gets nicked by a knife as a straight spear growing next to it is harvested. After that point they’ll no longer grow straight, but they still taste just as amazing. We ate them with pickled egg yolks and parmesan mousse at a preview dinner for Taste London. Greg will be one of five chefs – including Magnus Nilsson of Fäviken Magasinet, Niklas Ekstedt of Ekstedt, Sean Gray of Momofuku Ko and Manoella Buffara of Manu – cooking four-course meals on different days at The Residence, presented by Zacapa rum (so expect cocktails). The event runs from June 13th to 17th, and tickets are available here.
Ever tried a loquat? Originating in Asia, this fruit is also known as Japanese plum or Japanese medlar – it's plum-like in size and has a taste somewhere between plums, peaches and apricots. It's in season now, and we’ve seen it on several restaurant menus this week, including roasted like peaches in a summer salad, used in a tagine-style dish with braised lamb, or stewed in sugar and served with buckwheat ice cream for dessert. We got our hands on some loquats from a local greengrocer, cooked them with vanilla, sugar and a squeeze of lemon, and blitzed them into a purée to make delicious loquat bellinis. Look for loquats in your local greengrocer or find them from Natoora on Ocado.com.
Earlier this month we tried...
Meet the avolato (avocado + gelato, get it?) Recently launched by Snowflake Luxury Gelato at Selfridges Food Hall, this dessert is taking the avocado trend to a whole new level. Set in a real avocado skin, the ‘gelato’ itself is made from 60% Hass avocado and sweetened with grape sugar. Its ‘stone’ is also edible, made using a mix of Pip & Nut peanut butter, soy milk, flax seeds and nuts. The result is a smooth, creamy-tasting, mousse-like, 100% vegan dessert with a soft nutty centre. It's served in two halves and costs £9.50 – we advise sharing. Find it in Selfridges Food Hall London from now throughout summer.
‘The love child of sushi and a sandwich’ – a concept so genius and so seemingly simple that we’re wondering why we haven’t seen it here before. It might just be the ideal al-desko lunch. Inspired by onigirazu (a Japanese rice sandwich, often used in lunchboxes in Japan) and a love of global street food, Norigami founder Arthur Liegeois came up with his own version of the sushi sandwich. Wrapped in sushi rice and nori seaweed, his flavour-packed, globally inspired fillings range from Sri Lankan vegan curry (spicy potato, onion, spiced pickled carrots, coriander, parsley) to Moroccan chermoulah chicken (marinated chicken, sweet and sour red cabbage, spinach leaves) and, staying closer to its roots, Japanese miso roasted salmon with sesame seeds, crunchy pickled cucumber and green beans. Don’t miss the two-week Norigami pop up at Sourced Market, St Pancras International station or order lunch online (London only).
As Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine continues to soar in popularity in the UK, thanks in part to chefs like Yotam Ottolenghi and Sabrina Ghayour, so too do the ingredients used. We’ve noticed more restaurants, recipes and chefs using Aleppo chilli. A Turkish chilli named after the Syrian city of Aleppo, the dried chilli flakes have a milder, sweeter and slightly tangier flavour than standard chilli flakes. It's normally found in savoury dishes, but we found it in a dessert – this dark chocolate and toasted sourdough bark with caramel and Aleppo chilli was served at a supper club collaboration between catering company Caiger & Co and Mazi Mas, a social enterprise which trains refugee and migrant women in hospitality. If you'd like to cook with Aleppo chilli, you can buy it online at Sous Chef or Ottolenghi.
Haggis bon bons
Hot, crispy, oat- and cheddar-crumbed haggis bon bons dunked in whisky mayonnaise? Possibly the most Scottish and definitely the most delicious starter we’ve had in a while. We tried these at Waterfront Fishouse restaurant in Oban. With a beautiful view over the harbour, Waterfront Fishouse specialises in seafood, including local smoked salmon and creel-caught langoustines, brought in daily by a fisherman affectionally nicknamed ‘Gordon the Prawn’. We followed these haggis bon bons with a seabass fillet stuffed with crab and prawn, served on smoked salmon mash with asparagus & caper butter. Visiting Oban? Make a stop at Waterfront Fishouse or check out our Boozy Breaks travel guide for more restaurants, distilleries and cafes to try in Oban.
Missed an entry in our food diary? Find out what we've eaten previously...
What we ate in April 2018