Discover how British growers and producers are transforming pulses, grains and pasta into delicious, sustainable choices for a planet-friendlier future
The regeneration game: Wildfarmed, UK In the 2000s, Andy Cato toured the world as one half of dance music duo, Groove Armada. But by 2014, the musician and DJ began farming in France, where, battling the weather, weeds and conventional wisdom, he was determined to cultivate his land using regenerative farming methods. Early setbacks almost sunk the project. Farming, says Andy, can be, "a lonely, dark place". But what he learned in Gers, France, fired his ambition. By the time Andy was milling his own wheat and selling bread from his farm bakery, he wanted to offer sustainable food with a "field-to-plate traceable link" to more people. "The mission was, 'how do we make this a high-street choice?'" The answer was Wildfarmed, co-founded with Edd Lees and George Lamb, which, since 2018 has grown into a network of 150 mainly British farms. Collectively, their wheat produces the Wildfarmed flours now found in restaurants and on UK supermarket shelves. Wildfarmed also makes breads and supplies oats and barley; the latter to breweries including Jubel. For farmers, switching to regenerative methods is risky. Conventional farming uses various chemical treatments to, says Andy, "control nature". The regenerative approach, which aims to radically improve soil health, minimises the use of such treatments (Wildfarmed bans pesticides on its crops, for example). Instead it requires farms to work in "collaboration with nature", with minimal ploughing, and fertilising land by intermingling crops, plants and grazing animals, which can be a challenge for newcomers. Wildfarmed eases that transition by offering expert guidance and guaranteed prices to its farmers. As a phrase or concept, 'regenerative farming' is criticised for lacking clear definition and rules. But Wildfarmed farms are required to adhere to key methods and standards, subject to third-party auditing. Wildfarmed also works with scientific partners to verifiably measure the positive impact of regenerative practices, in terms of biodiversity, water quality and carbon emissions. To an extent, Wildfarmed's flours, creating using blends of wheats, stand or fall on flavour. "There is a correlation between how you grow, taste and quality," says Andy, who now farms in southern England. But he feels Wildfarmed must actively explain its approach to the buying public: "If you're saying to them, 'pay a bit more for this flour', they quite reasonably say, 'why?'." Such transparency is essential to generate buy-in and inspire other businesses to back sustainable farming. "We've got a small amount of ecological road left," warns Andy. "We need Wildfarmed-type businesses for cabbages, carrots – everything." Setting pulses racing: Hodmedod's, East Anglia "Pulses have really had a moment", says Hodmedod's co-founder, Nick Saltmarsh. Foodies have rediscovered beans, lentils and peas as a delicious essential in many vibrant global cuisines – and as sustainability superheroes. Hodmedod's has played a distinctive role in that glow-up. By working with British farmers to realise pioneering harvests of lentils, and creating a retail range that runs from canned UK fava beans to smoked paprika yellow peas, its promotion of UK-grown pulses has, since 2012, encouraged foodies to reevaluate how pulses are grown and their potential. The Hodmedod's journey started during research into an ideal UK diet, in which its co-founders discovered that fava beans, grown here in significant volumes for centuries, are exported or sold as animal feed, but not eaten domestically. That seemed bizarre. Fava beans taste fantastic (they are prized in Egyptian cuisine), and, like all pulses, this low-intensity, plant-friendly crop 'fixes' nitrogen in farm soils, acting as a natural fertiliser. Hodmedod's saw great potential in turning shoppers onto fava and other British-grown pulses such as carlin peas (Hodmedod's answer to the chickpea), and would create a nutritious, sustainable new food source almost out of nowhere. "There's need for change across the system. We want to demonstrate where things can be done differently and better," says Nick. Exemplifying that, Hodmedod's work closely with over 30 UK farms, not because it opposes imports (in fact, Hodmedod's sells organic French borlotti), but because it values the provenance insight such proximity enables. Insight that is impossible in a remote system of globally traded foods. "If you know who's grown your food and how, that incentivises production done the right way," says Nick. Thirteen years in, Hodmedod's supplies a range of co-branded products to Holland & Barrett nationally, handles over 1,000 tonnes of pulses annually, and has expanded its portfolio of traceable, sustainable foods to include items as diverse as seaweed and edible grains, such as pearled spelt. With around 700,000 tonnes of pulses grown annually in the UK, Hodmedod's impact is small. But, "in a symbolically significant way", says Nick. It has proven that, "there are opportunities to change farming, our diets and get more diversity into both." Next level carb fest: Northern Pasta Co., Kendal “The challenge is people don’t even look at the pasta aisle. You just reach out and chuck your pasta in,” explains Imogen Royall, co- founder of Northern Pasta Co. This young company is determined to make pasta as planet-friendly as possible, and make your choice of pasta “an intentional purchase”. For Imogen and her husband Matt Kenyon, who is a former builder, their zeal for sustainability goes back to growing up in Cumbria, “surrounded by beautiful nature,” says Imogen. “You want to look after that”. But it wasn’t until Imogen, then working in an artisan bakery, began to take an interest in ancient grains, that their outlook began to coalesce into a business. Imogen was finding ancient wheats, such as spelt, easier to digest, and was also fascinated by how such hardier wheat varieties can thrive in regenerative UK farming systems. They wondered, could ancient grains be used to make pasta? During the pandemic, Imogen and Matt would go on a deep dive of YouTube pasta tutorials and Reddit threads as they experimented with spelt flour pastas at home. There is some history of spelt pasta-making in Italy, mainly in Tuscany and Umbria, but the couple largely refined their process by, “trial, error and lots of pasta tasting”. “We wanted to create pasta without compromise. It had to be delicious. It had to behave like pasta,” says Imogen. Eventually, they settled on a recipe based on regeneratively grown white spelt flour, with some additional organic wheat semolina. The pasta is then bronze die extruded and slow dried at low temperatures for flavour. The result is a range of pastas that, like the best high-end versions, achieve a creamy texture and retain al-dente bite, hold their shape well and are tasty enough that you could eat them simply dressed with good oil, pepper and parmesan (the spelt adds a nice earthy, nutty edge). Despite only making its debut on Kendal Farmers’ Market in June 2022, Northern Pasta Co is now a team of six fulfilling orders for Ocado and Booths, among others. Their production facility is solar-powered and pasta is packaged in paper. Every decision is taken with sustainability and quality in mind: “We’re trying to show you can have everything – look after our environments, pay farmers fairly, zero plastic packaging and delicious pasta.” Anything less would be “underestimating our consumers”, she says. “They want better. Our growth is reflective of that.” Learn more about sustainable eating... Our October climate heroes Top sustainable foods The Good Food sustainability glossary What would happen if everyone went vegan?
Sip sustainably this summer at bars that care for the planet as much as their cocktails – enjoy feel-good drinks that don’t cost the earth
First, the good news: in sustainability terms, booze is not particularly bad for the planet – what we eat is far more important and, at times, far more problematic. A 75g beef burger generates over 10 times the harmful greenhouse gas emissions that a pint of beer does, according to a benchmark study by experts at Oxford University and Switzerland’s Agroscope. Other analysis suggests alcohol is responsible for just 2-5 per cent of dietary emissions, with that impact being the greatest in pubs and restaurants. On that basis, you can enjoy a G&T guilt-free this summer. But, there are still tweaks you can make to your drinking to deliver easy green wins without spoiling your fun. Such changes won’t radically shrink your carbon footprint, but on issues ranging from farming to recycling, they’ll encourage positive progress in how we all treat the environment. So, grab a beer and listen in. What are you drinking, and does it matter? Frankly, the gains in switching from one drink to another are so marginal compared to changing your diet, that forgoing meat more often would do far more good than swerving the pub or a tipple you love. But, for the record, research indicates that beer creates more greenhouse gas emissions per pint (double the amount, at times) than a medium glass of wine. Neat spirits have a much smaller footprint, but that grows if you add ice or mixers. With so many variables in play, it’s impossible to choose a definitively ‘green’ drink, but you could make a good case (heat-free fermentation, bio-diverse orchards, organic brands such as Dunkertons) for traditional cider. Drinking what the Campaign For Real Ale defines as “real cider” – that is, unpasteurised and made from whole apple juice – is a pretty planet-friendly way to enjoy a pint. Beer Want to sup sustainably? Order a pint of draught beer. Beer arrives at pubs in steel barrels that are used 100-plus times over decades, then recycled. It’s a very efficient distribution method. There are always exceptions, but in broad terms, drinking locally made beer as close to its point of production as possible (like a brewery tap) is a good sustainable move, as is choosing a UK-brewed beer over an imported one. Cask beer is also a sound choice, given regional versions are widely available. Ale gravity-dispensed from the barrel is a green bonus, but very rare. Draught not available? Choose cans over bottles. Both are regularly recycled, but canned beer is lighter to transport, and recycling aluminium uses less energy than recycling glass. Amazingly, 75 per cent of all the aluminium ever made has been recycled and is still in use. But, that’s not a free pass: recycling has its own carbon footprint and, says a spokesperson for the Sustainable Restaurant Association, “What we really need is a circular system where single-use packaging becomes a thing of the past.” Finally, keep an eye out for ales from certified-organic brewers (such as Black Isle, Atlantic or Stroud) and beers created as sustainable products. These include Black Sheep’s carbon-neutral Respire and Seven Bro7hers Throw Away, for which leftover Kellogg’s Corn Flakes are ‘upcycled’ to make an IPA. Takeaway tips Drink draught, prioritise UK pints and local real ales, choose cans over bottles and look for sustainably brewed beers. Wine Drinking organic, biodynamic or natural wine is a positive change you can make. All three use grapes cultivated without artificial chemical pesticides or antifungal sprays. This reduces greenhouse gas emissions and prevents the pollution and soil degradation that can arise from excessive synthetic chemical use. Many of those vineyards also follow regenerative farming principles. By rewilding land, planting different crops amid vines or operating ‘no-dig’ policies, they maximise soil health. Organic wine production is growing, too, particularly in warmer, drier regions – almost 75 per cent of the world’s organic vines are in Spain, France and Italy. But, in cold, damp northern Europe, reducing chemical use may require drinkers to embrace unfamiliar grapes – known as hybrids or PIWIs – that are gaining traction as sustainable alternatives. Unlike classic European vinifera grapes (such as sauvignon blanc, chardonnay), hybrids are crossed with non-vinifera grapes to create hardier frost- and disease-resistant varieties that thrive with little, if any, chemical intervention. Some connoisseurs are sniffy about hybrid wines – made from grapes such as solaris, rondo, seyval blanc and marquette – but Sunny Hodge, owner of London’s Aspen & Meursault, says: “We sell loads that I think are phenomenal.” Beyond the vineyard, wine bottles are a big issue. Making glass is energy-intensive, and studies suggest that bottling may account for 30-50 per cent of each wine’s emissions. Those heavy bottles are then transported, which – particularly if sent by air or road; sea freight is more sustainable – adds considerably to its carbon footprint. In Britain, drinking British wine that has travelled a shorter distance is one tactic. Otherwise, opt for lighter-weight bottles that are capsule-free (no unrecyclable foil at the neck) and that, rather than plastic stoppers, use screw-caps or cork, now widely viewed as the sustainable option. Alternatively, dispense with the bottle altogether: many sustainability-focused bars now pour tap wines from recyclable or returnable kegs and XXL bag-in-box set-ups. These formats (far lighter than bottles to transport and less prone to waste) slash a glass of wine’s carbon footprint. Takeaway tips Drink natural or organic wines, opt for hybrid grapes, drink British or sea-imported options (ask at the bar), opt for lighter-weight bottles or try tap wine. Cocktails No one wants a sustainability lecture with their negroni and, consequently, bars rarely stress green credentials on cocktail menus. Instead, you must learn how to decode a menu and evaluate passing drinks. Ask yourself: are garnishes edible, seasonal and necessary? Are the drinks considered in their use of foraged ingredients? Are leftovers (citrus peels and fruit trimmings) reused to create cordials and syrups? To minimise the use of imported fruits, is the bar making infused vinegars to replicate citrus acidity? Jack Wakelin, co-owner of Sheffield bar Pearl and restaurant Bench – a man who has used leftover whey in place of lime to make a classic daiquiri – says any such waste-minimising work is a good indicator that a bar takes sustainability seriously: “It’s labour-intensive. It does show a consciousness.” Cocktails at Wakelin’s venues are batched; that is, pre-made and served on tap. The rationale is that when making cocktails to order, bartenders use (and wastefully discard) loads of ice as they mix, chill and dilute drinks. Batching enables bars to serve consistent cocktails without ice or use it sparingly in specific serves, while also minimising the use of glass bottles. Many now buy large pouches of spirits (that are recyclable and can be returned by post), to use in batch recipes. On menus, look for references to organic spirits (such as those from malt whisky distillery Nc’nean) and the inclusion of innovative sustainable drinks, such as the ‘climate-positive’ pea gin, Nàdar. Takeaway tips Avoid gimmicky drinks; look for seasonal fruits, homemade elements and eco-brands on menus; get on-board with tap cocktails. Good-news booze Raise a glass to the new innovations in sustainable drinking: Denbies in Surrey is one of few Certified Net Zero wine producers globally. Its land is managed so that it sequesters more carbon (fixes it in the soil – a positive) than it emits into the atmosphere. Last year, Johnnie Walker Black Label maker Diageo trialled a 90 per cent paper bottle for whisky, which reduced the bottle’s weight by about 60 per cent. Beer hops are regularly imported, particularly for lagers, but Purity Brewing’s Pure pilsner is made with British-grown hops and East Anglian malt. Pioneering Herefordshire maker Penrhos Spirits retails its gins in light, recycled aluminium bottles, reducing its packaging carbon footprint by 91 per cent. TransOceanic Wind Transport’s low-impact, sail-powered transatlantic fleet carries cargo from France to America for drinks producers, including burgundy wine maker Maison Joseph Drouhin and champagne house G.H. Mumm. From broad beans to the ancient African grain fonio (see: Brewgooder’s Fairtrade fonio IPA), brewers are increasingly including sustainable ingredients in their beers. Norwegian scientists have been experimenting with planet-friendly pea sugars as a fast way of brewing Belgian-style sour beers. At Hampshire’s Candover Brook vineyard, sheep graze between the vines in spring to help tend and fertilise the land. Their fleeces have also been trialled as an alternative to leaf mulch; the idea is that when they are laid around the vines, they’ll feed the soil, suppress grasses and weeds and retain water as they decompose. Using regenerative Wildfarmed barley and spent hops (from which leftover bittering compounds are cleverly extracted), London’s Gipsy Hill is now brewing carbon-negative draught lager Swell. The beer leaves no damaging carbon footprint; in fact, it positively sequesters carbon in the ground. Discover more planet-friendly content: Chris Packham on veganism, sustainability and his love for nature Top sustainable foods Why are you throwing away fruit? The Good Food sustainability glossary Easy ways to make soup from leftovers
We waste fruit on a shocking scale in the UK, but small changes to the way we all shop, cook and eat can make a big difference
Every day we collectively bin around a million bananas, 360,000 oranges and 33,000 apples, helping to make fruit the fifth biggest contributor to home food waste, according to the campaigning waste charity WRAP. True, some of that fruit is beyond saving. We have all been caught out by slimy, visibly mouldy items lurking forgotten in fruit bowls or fridge drawers. Safety advice with such inedible items is obvious, discard them. But often we throw away fruit: bruised apples, bananas with brown patches, wrinkled lemons, overripe berries, which, if trimmed, or used in cooking, would taste great. Binning such items is damaging, both economically and ecologically. Each year, says WRAP, the average four-person British household wastes £1,000 on uneaten food; 60 per cent of food waste happens in domestic kitchens. And, globally, according to the UN Environment Programme’s Food Waste Index Report 2024, lost and wasted food creates almost five times the greenhouse gas emissions generated by aviation. Whether you want to save pennies or the planet, taking good care of fresh produce and using it effectively benefits everyone. Fruit is a great place to start. Good Food spoke to the experts to find out how. Buying fruit Plan what fruit you will realistically eat that week, make a list to avoid impulse purchases and buy loose items of fruit according to your exact need, rather than larger packs of apples or oranges. “Shopping like our nan back in the day,” says WRAP CEO, Harriet Lamb. WRAP has found 65 per cent of shoppers would buy more loose fruit if it was available, which would also reduce unnecessary packaging. Some of that packaging is designed to keep fruit fresh for extended periods. Nonetheless, WRAP’s modelling suggests selling more fruit loose would reduce waste overall. It is urging a packaging ban on 21 fresh items by 2030, including limes, apples, bananas, oranges and mangoes. Loose fruit would certainly make shopping easier, insomuch as you should be using your hand and eye to inspect fruit and test its ripeness – with its condition guiding purchasing decisions. For example, you might buy a bunch of green bananas that will ripen over the week and a yellow banana or two for immediate eating. To minimise waste, buying fruit requires that proactive engagement. In recent years, several major supermarkets have removed ‘best before’ dates from fruits, where it is suitable, to encourage shoppers to trust their own judgement and not throw away edible fruit. But with certain fruits, such as berries, could buying frozen be the answer? Soft fruits tend to be a little squishy after defrosting, but they last for months in the freezer and, frozen at optimum freshness, taste sensational in a jam, crumble or smoothie. They also work well in cocktails, as garnishes or ingredients. As Emily Cuddeford, co-founder of Edinburgh’s Twelve Triangles bakeries, asks rhetorically, "Frozen strawberry daiquiri, anyone?" Storing fruit “Any damage will encourage fruit to fail earlier,” warns Kathryn Farrell, a buyer at kitchenware store, Lakeland. When shopping, look for bruising and at home, store fruit in ways that protect it. “Let air circulate,” says Robin Aitken, head chef at Glasgow’s Margo. “No cramming produce into a fridge drawer. They’ll just turn to mush.” Fruit sold in packaging will often survive best in that packaging and all fruit, except bananas and pineapples, will stay fresher for longer if refrigerated. In the fridge, open or ventilated containers are generally best. Fruit sat in its own juices deteriorates rapidly, so try storing in colanders. Chris Leach, chef and co-founder at London’s Manteca, washes and dries banana ends to eradicate fruit fly eggs and stores washed and dried strawberries in airtight jars lined with kitchen paper, to prevent bruising and absorb moisture. Some fruits like bananas and pears produce ethylene, a gas which will ripen both that fruit and, sometimes, other nearby fruits and vegetables, potentially causing them to spoil. Separate out such ethylene emitters in your kitchen and fridge drawers. To slow the speed at which bananas ripen, Jun Tanaka, chef-patron at London’s the Ninth, advises keeping the stem of the banana wrapped, so less ethylene escapes. Conversely, to fast-ripen ethylene-sensitive fruits, add a banana to a bag of fruit. Left at room temperature, the banana will kick-start ethylene production in the bagged fruit, ripening it in a day or two. Leach likes to blitz and freeze brown bananas to create an easy ice cream: “You’ve got natural sweetness because they’re overripe. It’s great for little kids.” Take the guesswork out of knowing what you can freeze with our helpful guide on what foods can I freeze?. Then, explore our tips on how to freeze strawberries, how to freeze bananas, and how to freeze rhubarb for more fruit-specific advice. Using abundant fruit The fruit we discard, as it begins to break down, was moments earlier at its sweetest. Intervening presciently is key. “If you find yourself with a glut of fruits about to go off, the best way to use them up are still the old-fashioned ones. Cakes, crumbles, baked goods, jams, chutneys and the like,” says Tom Tsappis, chef at Perthshire’s Killiecrankie House. James Knappett, chef at London’s Kitchen Table likes a waste-not trifle (“If the fruit looks riper than it should, you extract maximum flavour without having to worry about appearance.”), while Robin Aitken loves pies, in particular our recipe for an apple & hazelnut galette that’s great to adapt to whatever you’ve got left over”. Jan Ostle, chef at Wilson’s in Bristol, saves fruit by steaming it with a third of its weight in sugar, puréeing it and using it in baking, “or as a topping for yogurt or pancakes”. He also makes burnt pickled lemon purée by blitzing charred, pickled lemon skins: “Use in a similar way to lime pickle; adding smoky, tangy flavour to stews, rice or as a condiment with grilled meats.” When it comes to using normally waste elements of fruit, you will find plenty of inspiration including recipes for candied citrus peel, such as our candied orange peel, a banana peel breakfast cake or a lemon salt that demonstrates why chefs love to add citrus peels to seasonings and sugars. “Lemon orange pepper on sea bass is lovely,” says Judy Joo, chef-founder of London’s Seoul Bird restaurants, who – as another zero-waste fruit tip also rates watermelon rind kimchi. Drinks are also a great way to use abundant fruit. Find inspiration with our simple recipes for rhubarb, raspberry or blackcurrant cordials and shrubs (fruit syrups made with honey and vinegar, used as a base in cordials and cocktails). Elsewhere online, adventurous cooks can find recipes for, as an example, Mexican tepache, a fermented drink made with pineapple peelings and the core. Whatever your dilemma, a little research will yield solutions that squeeze every last drop of flavour out of fruit and save you money, too. For more information, go to: lovefoodhatewaste.com Find further inspiration for less waste... Zero-waste recipes for everyday 10 clever ways to use vegetables in bakes How to waste fewer potatoes How to waste less bread
From ‘food miles’ to ‘mindful meat’, our sustainability glossary explains some of the most common green concepts to help you make informed purchasing choices
We all want to make greener choices in what we eat and drink, not just to reduce our carbon footprint, but to encourage sustainable farming, protect wildlife and our beautiful rural habitats, and nurture ecosystems for future generations. For all our good intentions, navigating the often baffling terminology can be a headache. A 2024 report, by communications agency Fleet Street and market researchers, Trajectory, found that fewer than 50 per cent of people completely understand concepts such as “locally grown” or “single-use plastics”. Science terms, such as “biodiversity” or “carbon offsetting”, were clear to just five per cent of consumers. To help clarify, we’ve compiled a sustainability glossary that explains some of the most common green concepts you may encounter when you’re shopping, eating out or reading about food’s sustainability. Read on to empower yourself to make the right choices for you and the planet. Next find out which diet is the most environmentally friendly, what a green diet look likes and what would happen if everyone went vegan. The Good Food Sustainability Glossary Biodiversity The wide variety of life on Earth encompassing different animals, insects, plants, the ecosystem they live in – forest, desert, grasslands or coral reef, for example – and the microorganisms that help support life in that environment. Biodynamic Low-intensity farming with a spiritual edge, popular with winemakers. Shares many methods with organic and regenerative farming, but biodynamic farms also use nine treatments (called “preparations”, fermented from natural ingredients) to improve soil and compost health. The efficacy of such treatments has not been scientifically verified. Some biodynamic farmers also rely on the lunar calendar, charting the position of the moon, to choose the best time for sowing and harvesting. Bioplastics Plastics derived from renewable plant matter, such as corn starch or sugar cane, which produces fewer greenhouse gas emissions. Popular in takeaway food packaging, many bioplastics are compostable, but only if collected for treatment in industrial composters, which work at hotter temperatures than home compost bins. Only items labelled ‘home compostable’ or similar, can be thrown in with your potato peels and apple cores. Carbon footprint Researcher and writer Mike Berners-Lee explains this as; carbon = all the different global-warming greenhouse gases, footprint = a metaphor for the impact something has. By this definition, a carbon footprint is roughly the total climate change impact of something, such as an activity (flying), an item (a banana), a person, or even a whole country. Find out more about our food carbon footprint and ways to cut your food carbon footprint. Carbon neutral Activity which, overall, does not increase the total greenhouse gases in the atmosphere. Ideally, this is done by eliminating emissions at source. Carbon neutrality can also be achieved by carbon offsetting, where a company pays a third-party to absorb carbon from the atmosphere, for example by planting trees (also known as reforestation). Capsule free Wines minus a non-recyclable foil wrap at the neck, which is an unnecessary and wasteful addition. Clean energy Renewable sources of energy that generate power but do not contribute to global warming. Clean or green energy sources include wind, solar, wave, biomass and hydro. Deforestation Cutting down or removing trees to make way for crops, such as palm oil, farms or urban development. Deforestation in tropical rainforests is particularly worrying because of the wide range of biodiversity they support. Einkorn, emmer & spelt Ancient forms of wheat hailed for their flavour, nutritional value and ability, as hardy crops, to thrive on biodiverse organic and regenerative farms. Entomophagy Eating insects and food made from insect protein, which would alleviate pressure on the global food system. Fin-to-gill & root-to-fruit The same zero-waste approach as nose-to-tail but for fish and vegetables or fruit. Flexitarian Flexitarians minimise their meat, fish and sometimes dairy intake (sourcing sustainably when they do partake), in favour of vegetables, beans, dried pulses and nuts. In food production, meat and other animal products create the bulk of greenhouse gas emissions. Switching to a mostly plant-based diet is one of the easiest ways to step more lightly on the planet. Food miles The distance that your food has travelled from where it’s grown to where you buy it. Curiously, a high number of food miles doesn’t always mean that food is bad for the environment. Bananas, for example, are shipped thousands of miles to the UK but they often have a much lower carbon footprint than produce that has been air freighted in from Europe. Discover the facts about food miles. Food waste Any food or inedible parts of food that are thrown away. Avoidable food waste is food that could have been eaten but is either no longer wanted or has gone past its sell-by-date. Unavoidable food waste is food that could never be eaten, such as eggshells or tea bags. Learn about how to reduce food waste. Fossil fuels Non-renewable sources of energy such as coal, oil and natural gas. Fossil fuels release greenhouse gases when they are burned, while most plastic is made from chemicals extracted from fossil fuels. Green diet A healthy, sustainable way of eating that’s better for you and the environment. Key principles include reducing red meat consumption, eating more plant-based foods and cutting out processed foods. Greenhouse gases A number of gases that contribute to climate change by trapping heat in the Earth’s atmosphere. The largest contributor to global warming is carbon dioxide (CO2). Others include methane and nitrous oxide. Read more about greenhouse gases. Hand-dived… by human divers. The least disruptive way of retrieving seafood, usually scallops, from sea beds. Other low-impact seafood sources to look out for include rope-grown mussels, farmed oysters and creelor pot-caught crab and lobster. Intensive farming Highly mechanised farming that uses artificial fertilisers and concentrated animal feeds to produce large amounts of food quickly, affordably and reliably. It often involves the large-scale cultivation of one crop (known as a monoculture), and is responsible for river pollution, soil degradation and decreasing biodiversity. Landfill A site where waste is disposed of by being buried in the ground. In the UK, we send almost one quarter (24.4 per cent) of our waste, or 52.3 million tonnes, to landfill. Locavore Modern chef and consumer movement committed to buying locally produced foods, from the farm gate or within a 100-mile radius. This can bolster small businesses, communities and promote transparent, environmentally sound supply chains. It’s sometimes referred to as farm-to-table dining. Mindful meat Phrase used to denote avoidance of intensively farmed meats and an emphasis on eating “better meat” from abundant sources, such as wild game, or meats that would otherwise be a waste product (for example male kid goats from dairy farms). Natural wine Wine returned to its pre-industrial origin, in order, say fans, to let the true flavours of a grape or growing area shine. Grapes are grown using organic or biodynamic principles, boosting soil health, fermented with wild yeasts and, unlike conventional wine (where various mechanical aids and additives can be used help makers ensure consistent flavours), left to develop without intervention. Certification schemes for natural wine are emerging. French makers can join the official Vin Méthode Nature designation. But, globally, most makers prefer to work pragmatically rather than to strict rules. For example, some will not add any stabilising sulphites to their wines, others modest amounts on a case-by-case basis. Nose-to-tail Cooking ethos popularised by chef Fergus Henderson which teaches, for both sustainability and flavour, that all edible parts of an animal should be eaten. Not just prime cuts but skin, organs, brains, bone marrow and more (known as offal or the ‘fifth quarter’). Organic farming Low intensity farming that using traditional methods seeks to work, "in harmony with nature,” says charity and certifying body the Soil Association. Certified organic producers must follow strict, legally defined rules covering many aspects of animal welfare and cultivation. For example, they cannot use weed-killers, and farms may only use a small number of naturally derived pesticides, such as citronella, within strict limits, as a last resort. Read more about what organic means. Overfishing When too many fish are caught, and there are not enough adults to breed and restock the population. The UN says one third of global fish stocks have now reached ‘overfished’ status. Regenerative farming A flexible approach rather than an objective set of rules, regen or low-input farming seeks to maximise a farm’s soil health and biodiversity by intermingling various crops, plants, trees, grazing animals and natural water sources, in such a way that farms can thrive with minimal-tozero use of artificial fertilisers and pesticides. Known as regenerative viticulture in wine. Single-use plastics An item of plastic that is only used once before it is thrown away. Single-use plastics include water bottles, plastic straws, cotton buds and food packaging. Find out the pieces of packaging to avoid. Sustainable Restaurant Association The SRA certifies restaurants with its ‘Food Made Good’ standard – a global evaluation of sustainable practises. Michelin’s green clover ‘Sustainable Gastronomy’ emblem awarded to restaurants doing good work in, say, growing-their-own or waste minimisation. Tap wine Wine served in recyclable or reusable kegs or pouches, reducing carbon emissions. Glass is energy intensive to make and heavy to transport. Wildfarmed Not a farming method, but a company. Its regeneratively farmed wheat flours are popular with chefs. More on sustainability What biodegradable really means How to compost food at home 8 ways to be a better recycler What are greenhouse gases? Is your diet contributing to water scarcity? Sustainability hub page For expert advice on everything from making products last longer, to reducing energy use and your carbon footprint - see sustainable living advice on Which.co.uk.
Look beyond the chain restaurants to explore York's vibrant food scene, from modern fine dining to hip wine bars and exotic street food.
Recommendations compiled as of the publication date. If you think there is any incorrect or out of date information in this guide please e-mail us at goodfoodwebsite@immediate.co.uk. A beautiful city steeped in history and gateway to the rural splendour of North Yorkshire, tourists will always flock to York - with almost 9m people visiting last year. Increasingly, its food scene is an attraction, too. In the last decade, a new wave of independent restaurants, bars and street food operators have transformed what, in food and drink terms was previously a rather staid city, dominated by the big-name chains, into an exciting, thoroughly modern place to eat. After a day of sightseeing, tuck in! For more guides with recommendations on the top restaurants in each city, check out our travel hub. We have guides for more northern cities, such as Leeds, Newcastle, Sheffield and Liverpool. Best restaurants in York at a glance 22 Yards - Special occasions, casual dining Cresci Pizza - Casual dining, kid friendly Tasca Frango - Casual dining Cosgriff & Sons - Cheap eats Izakaya - Special occasion, casual dining RAD Pizza @ Angel on the Green - Casual dining Yuzu Street Food @ Brew York - Casual dining Spark: York - Cheap eats, casual dining The Star Inn The City & York Minster Refectory - Casual dining, kid-friendly Roots - Special occasion, casual dining Skosh - Casual dining The Pig & Pastry - Cheap eats, casual dining, kid-friendly Los Moros - Cheap eats, casual dining Coconut Lagoon - Casual dining Shambles Market Food Court - Cheap eats, kid-friendly Partisan - Casual dining Fish & Forest - Casual dining Love Cheese - Cheap eats, casual dining Melton's - Special occasions Mannion & Co - Casual dining, cheap eats Il Paradiso del Cibo - Cheap eats, casual dining, kid-friendly Café No.8 - Casual dining Pairings - Casual dining Shambles Kitchen - Cheap eats Arras - Special occasion, casual dining Sotano - Casual dining 22 Yards Special occasions, casual dining Opened summer 2022, diagonally opposite York Minster, this stylish, cosy wine shop and bistro has rapidly established itself as one of the city’s best places to eat and drink. The warm service is well-drilled, the cooking pin-sharp. Sharing plates such as a duck fat pavé topped with punchy, funky black garlic aioli and deeply savoury Old Winchester cheese, mix classical technique and contemporary influences with great confidence. With its ace wines, casual vibe and French-leaning but international menu, there is something of the Parisian neo-bistro about 22 Yards. Dishes might run, for example, from a plate of miso-glazed courgettes with salsa verde, ricotta and hazelnuts to a timelessly delicious sole with greens in a creamy mussel and white wine sauce. Plates around £7-£23. Cresci Pizza Casual dining, kid-friendly One of a handful of UK restaurants certified by the Association Verace Pizza Napoletana, this Italian-owned, wood-fired Piccadilly joint produces stellar pizza from its open kitchen. A buzzy, friendly corner restaurant, colourfully decorated with shelves of Italian food products and southern Mediterranean tile work, its pizzas boast soft, elastic, easily digestible bases which, due to a long proving process, achieve real flavour depth. The distinctive, swollen outer-rim (or cornicione) on Cresci’s Neapolitan-style pizzas is as delicious as the margherita’s vibrant San Marzano tomato sauce or its creamy mozzarella. Elsewhere, topping combinations run from onions, lardo, basil and pecorino to sweet salami and chilli. Pizza from £6.50. Tasca Frango Casual dining After building a local following, not least through its pop-up street food arm, Frango Eduardo, this Portuguese-inspired outfit recently opened this small, casual city-centre restaurant. Full of big flavours and often rib-sticking dishes, Portuguese food is heartier than you might expect which Tasca reflects in pork bifana sandwiches, a Goan curry or specials such as piri-piri chicken on lentils. In the latter, the chicken thigh meat was moist, the spiced skin expertly charred and the depth of flavour the lentils had achieved spoke of diligent work with herbs, stock and chillies. Lighter dishes of, say, piri-piri prawns or chargrilled sardines with chimichurri-like molhu cru sauce, round-out the short menu. Naturally, there is pastel de nata available to finish. Mains from around £10. Cosgriff & Sons Cheap eats In the last couple of years, Australian chef-turned-ace-baker, Paul Cosgriff, has built an ardent cult following. Fans include such picky contemporaries as chefs Tommy Banks and Josh Overington. Cosgriff’s pastries and his sourdough-starter breads and donuts are next-level examples of artisan baking, as are the sandwiches he sells Thursday-Sunday at 14 Tower Street. The selection is limited to three fillings (one meat, one veggie, one vegan) but every detail is lovingly prepared, from the slow-cooked meats to Paul’s hybrid sourdough-focaccia sandwich bread. Expect creative fillings such as soy-marinated mushrooms, white bean béchamel, kale and cheddar, or kimchi, goat’s cheese, coriander and peanut salsa. From £6.50. Izakaya Special occasion, casual dining After making waves with Shori at Spark: York (see below), last year chef Danny Victory opened Izakaya to great acclaim. Two Japanese-inspired menus are offered, including an omakase tasting menu where you can take a deep dive into Victory’s beautifully composed dishes of, for example, halibut ceviche with cucumber, ponzu-dressed lobster with tomato tea-steeped watermelon or Yorkshire grouse with wild hedgerow berries. The bar’s cocktails are equally creative. Menus from £32. RAD Pizza @ Angel on the Green Casual dining Heading out of town past Clifford’s Tower, Bishopthorpe Road (aka. Bishy Road) is home to an enclave of indie businesses that tourists tend to overlook, to their detriment. The Angel is many things: hip watering hole, music venue, platform for food talent. It hosts pop-up supperclubs by up ‘n’ coming young chefs and a weekend breakfast-brunch service by Bobbin’ Bagels. It is also home, Thursday-through-Sunday, to sourdough pizza slingers RAD (which also serves its wood-fired work at Spark: York). Dishes from £7.50. Yuzu Street Food @ Brew York Casual dining A vast, colourful, industrial space (comprising a summer courtyard, riverside terrace, main brewery bar and upper beer hall), Brew York’s brewery-tap is a popular destination among beer lovers. Yuzu’s East Asian street food also draws a crowd. Tasty katsu curries, rice bowls, terrific gyoza and innovatively filled bao (think: shredded bulgogi beef, miso aubergine, Korean fried chicken), are sharply executed and great value. Meals from around £9.50. Spark: York Cheap eats, casual dining This split-level shipping container development has played a major role in re-energising York’s food scene. Like Shambles Market Food Court (see below), Spark’s street food kitchens have offered a proving ground for talented local chefs (several of whom now run their own restaurants), while helping inject the city with some much needed youthful vigour. Ten food traders run the gastronomic gamut, with various cocktail and beer bars (including the Outpost from Knaresborough’s Turning Point Brew Co.), lubricating proceedings. Various prices. The Star Inn The City & York Minster Refectory Casual dining, kid-friendly Chef Andrew Pern, owner of celebrated Harome gastropub, The Star Inn, also operates two spin-offs in magical York locations. His Star Inn The City sits on the River Ouse, its restaurant and summer terrace attracting a crowd from breakfast until late. Expect eggs Benedict first thing and, as the day progresses, dishes such as chianti-braised ox cheek, Cheshire saffron risotto and sprouting broccoli. This year, Pern also opened the Refectory in a beautiful, historic Grade II-listed building by York Minster. Its large patio garden is prime real estate when the sun comes out. Various menus and spaces offer everything from grazing charcuterie and cheese platters or high-end takeaway sandwiches to a £45 per-head, seven-course tasting menu that might include, for example, a truffled artichoke velouté or IPA-braised lamb shoulder with turnips, lamb fat potatoes and pickled mint. Refectory all-day menu, mains from £22. Roots Special occasion, casual dining The days of Roots operating as the younger sibling to Tommy Banks’ Black Swan in Oldstead are over. Roots has its own Michelin star and, while the two restaurants share an ethos, staff and, crucially, unique produce from the Banks’ family farm (not solely fresh ingredients but incredible pickles, ferments, charcuterie and more), it has evolved its own distinct flavour. Tommy is closely involved in dish development, but Roots is very much a co-pro with its head chef, Will Lockwood. If the restaurant décor leans spartan, the vibe is super-relaxed – fine dining in trainers, to borrow Nuno Mendes’s famous phrase. Well-drilled, friendly staff and gently buzzy background music, give these light-filled rooms a warm edge, as anticipation builds for the tasting menu to come. The farm-to-fork nature of Roots’ supply chain and its focus on northern European ingredients might imply a certain rustic, seasonal simplicity, but its dishes are, instead, highly inventive. This is where nature meets innovation, in classics such as a tiramisu-like dessert of aerated potato and chicory root, or the stand-out cruffin, a savoury take on the muffin-croissant hybrid, stuffed with, for example, lamb neck and served as a secondary course to your main. Crab toast – brioche fried in clarified butter – served with a bowl of crab, mussel and caviar ‘custard’, punctuated by spritzy pickled parsley shoots, is as accomplished a dish as you will eat: dreamily indulgent yet with a depth and balance that speaks of real intelligence in the kitchen. Dinner tasting menu from £145-£160. Skosh Casual dining Skosh is that rare beast: a fun restaurant with fantastic, relaxed staff, where the food, while ambitious and exacting, has a crowd-pleasing edge that will disarm even the fussiest eater. Food nerds, meanwhile, will lap-up chef-owner Neil Bentinck’s small plates, which deploy East Asian, Indian, classical French and modern British influences with rare self-assurance and creative vim. Each dish is a self-contained marvel. Don't miss the sensational hen’s egg, in winter a glamorous union of Dale End cheddar velouté, mushroom duxelle and Pedro Ximénez sherry. Elsewhere dishes might range from char siu pork belly with baby gem, gooseberry and pine nut, to roasted day-boat plaice with tandoori butter and lime pickle. Testament to its popularity, Skosh is planning to expand its capacity early in 2024. Main plates £8-£25. The Pig & Pastry Cheap eats, casual dining, kid-friendly Perenially brilliant breakfast-brunch-lunch spot. For 15 years the Pig has gone above-and-beyond in its, for example, Haxby Bakehouse sourdough toasties, kimchi fritters or a Brindisa chorizo and seasonal greens take on eggs Benedict. Its breakfast buns, such as its herby mushroom sandwich with fried egg, mature cheddar, rocket, grilled peppers, smoky mayo and tomato relish (there are meat and vegan versions, too), are an exceptional way to start the day. Dishes £3.95-£9. Los Moros Cheap eats, casual dining A graduate of Shambles Market (see below, where Los Moros still has a kitchen), Algerian chef Tarik Abdeladim creates vibrant, deftly spiced North African and Levantine dishes at his acclaimed Grape Lane restaurant. Tarik’s homemade merguez sausages with minted cucumber cacik (yoghurt) and urfa chilli oil, are a must. His sumac and za’atar fried chicken with preserved lemon mayo also has many fans. Beyond the classics such as Los Moro’s shakshouka or chicken tagine, the mains might include grilled sea bass, batata harra potatoes, house chermoula, baby courgettes and saffron aioli, or freekeh and apricot-stuffed quail with chicken velouté. Mains from £14. Coconut Lagoon Casual dining A little off the tourist beat, just beyond the city walls, this reliably terrific South Indian restaurant - now in its tenth year - conjures exhilarating flavours of real nuance and depth in its freshly spiced dishes. Tamarind, dried chillies, curry leaves and mustard seeds are deployed with great aplomb across everything from masala dosa to Keralan specialities such as beef curry with shallots and coriander or lamb stew with coconut, chilli and cinnamon. Mains from £8.45. Shambles Market Food Court Cheap eats, kid-friendly There are two main street food hubs in York: shipping container development, Spark: York (see above) and Shambles Market Food Court. At the latter, Dark Horse Coffee serves a superlative flat white from its horsebox. You will also find, among an array of kitchens serving everything from crepes to Sicilian snacks, the original outpost of Los Moros [see entry] and Smokehouse Burritos, offshoot from nearby, Shambles Kitchen (see below). The Smokehouse barbacoa burrito (beef shin smoked for eight hours, braised in homemade adobo broth and rolled with paprika rice and roasted red peppers), has fathoms of flavour. On Sunday, don’t miss Goldee’s Bagels, with their fresh and filled bagels. Burrito from £7. Partisan Casual dining Cake shop, café, gallery and restaurant, Partisan is a quirky spot; one where, within its neo-Victorian rooms, you will find various pieces of art and antiques for sale. Local, seasonal ingredients (including herbs from chef-owner Florencia Clifford’s arable farm), and products from high-quality artisan-makers, many from Yorkshire, underpin a globe-trotting daytime menu ranging from French toast and gussied-up sandwiches to shakshuka. The Persian eggs, in which scrambled eggs on Haxby Bakehouse sourdough are lifted by medjool dates, spinach, caramelised onions, natural yogurt and almond dukkah, is delicious. Dishes £7-£14.50. Its spin-off evening restaurant Brancusi is now also open. Fish & Forest Casual dining From Spark: York via the Gillygate pub, chef Stephen Andrews built a sterling rep for his creative, sustainably-sourced game, fish and vegetable-led dishes, before opening his Micklegate bistro. Its seasonal chalkboard menus change constantly, but expect crisply executed plates such as crayfish with ajo blanco, Konro-barbecued bream, pickled mussels, samphire, black salsify and a vadouvan-spiced sauce or venison with fennel and jus. Mains from £19.50. Love Cheese Cheap eats, casual dining Located on Gillygate, just beyond the city walls, this cheesemonger and deli is home to the so-called “speakcheesey”, a back-room café that leads into a ‘secret’ garden dining space. Linger over afternoon cheeseboards or upmarket grilled cheese sandwich, made with Haxby Bakehouse sourdough and cultured Bungay raw butter. Larger dishes from £7.95. Melton's Special occasions For 33 years, Melton’s has been applying sharp classical technique to fine seasonal Yorkshire produce, to great acclaim. It was a pioneer of good food in York, and not just within the confines of its dining room. Co-owner, chef Michael Hjort, is also creative director at York Food & Drink Festival (see entry in 10 More York Hotspots), which he has steered over two decades. These days, Michael cooks at Melton’s sister business, Anglo-French restaurant, The Chopping Block, while his wife, Lucy, continues to run Melton’s front-of-house. Michael’s long-term colleague, Calvin Miller, a chef steeped in the Melton’s ethos, leads its kitchen in the production of beautiful, quietly modish dishes of, say, Orkney scallop ceviche, a girolle tartlet with BBQ sweetcorn, black truffle and chive or cod, mussels, courgette, smoked butter and roe sauce. Menus from £58. Mannion & Co Casual dining, cheap eats Way back in 2010, when Andrew Burton opened Mannion & Co., it was one of York’s first good, centrally located indie deli-cafes. Today, the city is in a far better place. Its food scene is diverse and vibrant, and Mannion’s has kept pace. It remains a reliably good option for breakfast eggs Benedict (with smoked bacon, beurre noisette and truffled hollandaise), Yorkshire rarebit, superb sandwiches and dishes of, for example, beef cheek macaroni cheese or harissa-roasted cauliflower with cauli cous cous, tahini, dukkah and yoghurt. Mannion’s creates great takeaway sweet and savoury bakes, too. Meals from around £11. Il Paradiso del Cibo Cheap eats, casual dining, kid friendly This local legend has been spruced-up in recent years. For instance, its front room now sits behind retractable doors that open Il Paradiso out onto the street on warm summer nights. It retains the friendly feel of a bustling, family-run joint you might find in Rome or Naples – complete with occasional televised live football. Keen prices (eg. weekdays until 7pm, main and drink, £12.95), and fastidious methods (wood-fired pizza oven; fresh egg pastas made daily), ensure continued love among a loyal following. Mains from £10.50. Café No.8 Bistro Casual dining 21 years in, this Gillygate bistro (look for its gorgeous art nouveau shop front), continues to impress with its weekly-changing menu of modern European dishes. These might include, for example, prawn and smoked mackerel fishcakes, chive mayo and pea puree, fresh pasta with slow-cooked beef ragu, blue cheese and pesto or chargrilled Yorkshire lamb, Mediterranean vegetables, rosemary garlic potatoes and hollandaise. In summer, its rear garden is lovely. Mains from £15. Pairings Casual dining This stylish wine bar serves meat and cheese boards, small plates and salads (think: pork rillettes, smoked mackerel pate, burrata and watermelon), that draw on the work of high-quality artisan makers from East Yorkshire’s Staal Smokehouse to Salamanca’s Arturo Sánchez, supplier of Pairings’ 48-month-aged ibérico de bellota. There is, naturally, a large selection of wines by-the-glass, most available in exploratory flights or as recommended food pairings. Plates from £4.50; boards from £15.50. Shambles Kitchen Cheap eats The concept is simple at this refreshingly on-point takeaway. It serves a selection of wraps and sandwiches, for which the sauces, pickles and fillings are all diligently cooked from scratch. Combos include 8-hour-smoked pork collar, shredded onto warm focaccia with smoked gammon, blow-torched cheddar, mayo and pickles, or roast, spiced cauliflower and chickpeas in a vegan coronation sauce with green sauce, tahini, lettuce and crispy onions. As the strapline once ran for its pastrami: “Two weeks to make, two minutes to devour”. From £6.50. Arras Special occasion, casual dining Decorated with bold street art designs, this smart restaurant on Peasholme Green is home to Adam Humphrey, a chef who previously cooked in that culinary melting pot, Sydney. Those global influences are reflected in fascinating, skilfully executed plates of, for example, kombu-cured, roasted monkfish with kohlrabi, seaweed relish and cucumber butter sauce or spiced lamb rump, braised lamb dolmade, quinoa tabbouleh, salsify and date. The peripherals are good, too: interesting wines, notable cheese trolley, ace sourdough. Indeed, such is the kitchen’s baking prowess, it also has a coolly minimalist bakery-café space, Little Arras, at 50 Goodramgate. Dinner from £58. Sotano Casual dining Craft beer, artisan gins, crisp cocktails and Spanish tapas is the order of the day at this hidden gem. Originally just a basement bar (open until 3am, food until 9pm), Sotano now also includes a covered rooftop on its upper floors, where you can also enjoy its gambas pil pil, padron peppers, chicken and chorizo romesco-dressed skewers and morcilla black pudding balls. Tapas from £4.50. 10 more York hotspots Thor's Tipi Each summer/winter Thor’s tipis pop-up (in the Principal Hotel gardens and on Parliament Street), for drinks, music and street food from locals aces, such as Tasca Frango and Yuzu. Spring Espresso All your flat white, drip-cup and cold brew needs covered on Fossgate and by Lendal Bridge. The Block Roman-style pizza slices. Crispy, springy focaccia-like bases topped with interesting combinations, such as roast squash, chilli, thyme and goat’s cheese. Aly's Bakery Gillygate creators of gorgeous, deep-filled cheesecakes in various flavours. Its rich Basque-style cheesecake is a firm fan fave. Mýse OK, not strictly York. But fans of the former Le Cochon Aveugle may want to know that the Overingtons, chef Joshua and sommelier Victoria, are continuing their pursuit of culinary fireworks in nearby Hovingham. York Food & Drink Festival Annual 10-day, city-wide celebration of York’s tastiest attractions and the Yorkshire produce that underpins that work. Bluebird Bakery Real bread evangelist and purveyor of tasty baked items at its tiny Shambles Market shop. Bluebird also runs Rise, a bakery-café and arts venue in suburb, Acomb. Fat Hippo Northern burger slingers of distinction whose expansion from their Newcastle HQ now includes a York outlet. Its American cheeseburger is a modern classic. Bishopthorpe Road As per the Pig & Pastry and Angel on the Green entries, head beyond the city walls, along Bishy Road, and you will discover a thriving network of compelling indie businesses. Highlights include Stanley & Ramona, a compact corner café serving A1 coffee and top baked goods; Good Food Shop, a deli serving cut-above salad boxes and sandwiches on Haxby Bakehouse bread; and chilled shop-bar, 2 Many Wines (3 Bishopthorpe Road), a lovely place to lose a few hours. Just around the corner, York food lovers cannot get enough of the stellar croissants and pastries at Flori. York pub scene Manchester has the indie breweries. Leeds has the cool craft beer bars. But York has fantastic pubs in abundance. Pubs which, despite their often historic, characterful architecture, take a modern approach to beer covering all bases in cask ale and cutting-edge craft beer. On York station itself, York Tap is a gem, as is its sister bar, Pivni, just off Shambles Market. Between York Tap and the nearby Maltings, a civilised “pub for grown-ups” as it bills itself, you could while away a few happy, hoppy hours without really setting foot in the city-centre. But you are advised to press on to Turning Point Brew Co.’s café-bar styled The Falcon or further into town to the Blue Bell, a remarkable two-roomed Edwardian pub. Note: the Bell is a small place that cannot accommodate larger groups. It also takes a dim view of (full list of rules on its website), swearing, noise and general rowdiness. From there, you can cross the road to Ossett Brewery’s The Hop for a pint of its classic hoppy pale, White Rat, wander further down Walmgate-Fossgate to Brew York’s brewery-tap [see Yuzu entry] or, get out of the tourist scrum which York can become on its busiest days, and head beyond the city walls to that beer-lovers paradise, Rook and Gaskill. The Rook’s cask and keg taps and can ranges offers a veritable Who’s Who of modern British beer. On your way back through town, it is mandatory to visit, arguably, the greatest of York’s ale hubs, The House of Trembling Madness. The Stonegate original is both a very well-stocked bottle shop – its range will mesmerise even the biggest beer geek - and, upstairs, a cosy bar whose décor (taxidermy and other oddities of a piece with this medieval building), is as diverting as the beer choice. A second, swankier and larger Trembling Madness – a self-styled “craft beer mansion” over five-storeys of a handsome Georgian building – can be found a short walk away, at 14 Lendal. Like these suggestions? See other foodie city guides... Best places to eat in Oxford Best places to eat in Cardiff Best places to eat in Bristol Check out our travel hub. Is there anywhere we've missed? Let us know in the comments below... Travellers are advised to read the FCO travel advice at gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice for the country they are travelling to.
Vibrant Sheffield offers hip brunch spots and Scandi-inspired restaurants. Try wood-fired pizzas, authentic tacos, local cheese and spiced kebabs.
Recommendations compiled as of the publication date. If you think there is any incorrect or out of date information in this guide, please email us at goodfoodwebsite@immediate.co.uk If you're looking for a city break that has it all, Sheffield is a fantastic option. A friendly, culturally vibrant city neighbouring the Peak District, it's a getaway where you can easily mix gigs and galleries with scenic walks in beautiful countryside – regularly refuelling on great food, too. In its city centre, Kelham Island and inner suburbs such as Sharrow Vale and Nether Edge, the Steel City covers all food and drink bases in style: from chilled brunch spots to award-winning cocktail bars, family-friendly food halls to gastronomically ambitious restaurants. Discover our pick of the best restaurants, then check out more helpful guides in our travel hub. We have guides for other UK cities, such as Leeds, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Manchester. CITY CENTRE Tamper at Sellers Wheel Best for: casual dining Sheffield was the 19th century metalwork capital of the world. Today, Tamper, housed within a former silversmiths’, creates an equally precious commodity: Antipodean-style all-day brunches and great coffee. Over the weekend, local students, in particular, flock to this brick-lined, whitewashed space to gorge on Turkish eggs; kedgeree; sweetcorn, chilli & chive fritters with avocado and eggs; or that Kiwi classic, spicy mince on ciabatta with poached eggs & herb hollandaise. Dishes from £6.80. Rutland Arms Best for: casual dining There’s a lot of like about this quirky, boho city-centre pub. It’s a craft beer hub, with a yard that makes a sweet al fresco drinking spot in summer, and a legendary jukebox (complete with hilarious list of dos and don’ts). Chef Richard Storer’s idiosyncratic pub grub has put the Rutty on the map for food, too. He keeps it real on his “ballast” menu, while taking unusually good care of his chip butties, burgers and sausage sarnies. On the wider menu, there are generous snack plates of smoked anchovies on toast (with lemon and caper butter or mozzarella and sun-dried tomatoes); salt-baked potatoes with “scotchpocalypse” hot sauce; moreish tofu nuggets with vivid pickles and salad; or mains such as mutton leg with mustard mash, greens and gravy. The Rutty’s Sunday roasts are a big draw, too. Light meals from £4, mains from £12. Fat Hippo @ Kommune Best for: casual dining, kid-friendly A communal food hall housing street food traders is now every city’s must-have, and Kommune – a sleek transformation of Castle House – is a striking addition to that network. Among its traders, Fat Hippo is an enduring favourite. This next-level burger outfit started in Newcastle and its classic double-patty American cheeseburger is always a tonic, particularly when paired with a drop of the good stuff from Kommune’s craft beer bar-shop, Hop Hideout. Evening burger meals from £12.90. Native & JH Mann Best for: casual dining Visiting a city is about hunting for one-off experiences, and eating among the vintage crockery and ornamental bric-a-brac of Sharrow Vale fishmonger, JH Mann, is certainly that. At lunch (11am-3pm, Tue-Sat; from £15, 261 Sharrow Vale Road), you can choose your fish from the ice-counter, add various sides – think seared mackerel fillets with samphire and yellow lentil dhal – and the staff will cook it for you there and then. In 2021, JH Mann’s chef-owner, Christian Szurko, launched a city-centre restaurant, Native, where he dives deeper into seafood cookery. Expect plates like hand-dived roasted scallops with a garlic, herb and parmesan crumb; tempura soft-shell crab with handpicked Devon white crab meat and katsu sauce; or sea bream, chorizo butter, salsa verde and new potatoes. Mains from £15.50. CITY CENTRE: KELHAM ISLAND Piña Best for: casual dining This warehouse taqueria in Kelham Island (an historic industrial zone, increasingly home to bars and restaurants, office spaces and creative studios), is worlds away from Oaxaca. But, after finding inspiration in Mexico, owner Joe Cribley was determined that Piña’s taco menu and margaritas would deliver authentic flavours. Hand-pressed corn tortillas are topped with slow-cooked meats and vibrant vegan combinations. Think: braised birria beef, or citrus confit pork with salsa verde and pink onions. Two tacos from £10. JÖRO Best for: special occasions, casual dining A chic nook in the Krynkl shipping container development, JÖRO is a relaxed restaurant that, in chef Luke French’s ultra-seasonal, globally influenced dishes, operates at the very top-end of contemporary UK cooking. You eat amid jars of fermenting produce, with hip-hop and house music pumping away in the background, as engaging staff deliver plates of BBQ hand-dived Orkney scallop with rhubarb nahm jim; savoury spelt porridge with Jerusalem artichoke and comté; or Moss Valley pork belly tacos, mole and pickled cabbage. French and co-owner, Stacey Sherwood-French, also operates House of JÖRO, a luxurious four-bedroom boutique hotel in Sheffield, and KONJÖ, an East Asian-inspired kitchen at the Cutlery Works food hall. JÖRO has a retail arm, too. A second, larger version of its SHÖP concept will open this year at Oughtibridge Mill, between Sheffield and Barnsley. This space will include a bar, coffee shop and kitchen serving small plates, cheese and charcuterie. It will host foodie workshops and events, and retail food products, natural wines, books, kitchen kit and homewares. Menus from £35. V or V Best for: casual dining, vegetarians and vegans Using seasonal, heritage ingredients, open-fire cooking and clever pickles and ferments, the V or V kitchen creates innovative plant-based dishes, drawing on global influences. Good examples include the jerk-spiced oyster mushrooms, pineapple scotch bonnet jam and red cabbage sauerkraut; salt-baked celeriac, sage butter, chanterelles, baked apple mostarda and buckwheat; or BBQ hispi cabbage, rum raisins, brown butter hollandaise, pickled walnuts and Old Winchester. Note: the spin-off V or V Grill House recently opened at food hall, Sheffield Plate, serving, among other items, celeriac doner and oyster mushroom shish kebabs (mains from £10.75). Plates from £7.25-£12.75. Peddler Market Best for: casual dining This is a regular street-food party (first Fri-Sat monthly, plus occasional bank holiday weekends), spread across the Peddler Warehouse and courtyard. Expect live music, DJs, craft beers and cocktails, and top-notch traders serving everything from fried chicken and corn dogs to vegan kebabs. Look-out for tap-takeovers from notable craft beer breweries such as Hull’s Atom Beers and Huddersfield’s Zapato, while neighbours Depot Bakery handle the hot drinks and sweet bakes. Periodically, the self-explanatory street-food event Veg Out is held at the same site (next, October 21, 2023). The Depot Bakery Best for: casual dining, kid-friendly This is a warehouse bakery-café renowned for its bread, cakes and coffee, which also does fine work in the brunch-lunch sphere. From overnight oats to ham hock and Dijon mustard cheese toasties, plus creative plates such as “smashed” sardines on sourdough (cleverly jazzed-up with lime and olive oil, herbs, nuts, smoked and pickled chillies), the Depot Bakery is a feast of tempting options. There's a second Depot café at Hillsborough Park. Brunch dishes from £6. Slap & Pickle @ Heist Brew Co. Best for: casual dining Northern burger vendors Slap & Pickle serves its 40-day aged beef patties at two Sheffield venues: Heist Brew Co.’s large brewery-tap bar, on the Neepsend side of Kelham Island, and Ecclesall Road’s Dark Horse bar. S&P’s Sheffield menus include a local speciality, the Mardy Bun, comprising two smashed patties, smoked bacon, crispy onions and a rarebit sauce made with stout and Henderson’s Relish, aka. Hendo’s. Created in the 1880s and still made in Sheffield, this dark, spicy Worcestershire-adjacent table sauce is the Steel City’s default condiment. Burgers meals from £12.50. Cutlery Works Best for: casual dining, family-friendly Cutlery Works was voted best food hall at the 2022 British Street Food Awards. Among its traders are KONJÖ (see above), Edo Sushi, and Chuan Wei, a spin-off from Sheffield Szechuan restaurant and foodie favourite, China Red. Chuan Wei’s menu runs from dumplings, bao buns and crispy duck to spicy, aromatic Szechuan classics, such as yu-xiang shredded chicken or poached beef in hot chilli oil. The latter is a deep, soupy bowl of fiery meat and veg, that simultaneously sharpens the senses and lifts the soul. ABBEYDALE ROAD & NETHER EDGE Forge Bakehouse Best for: casual dining, cheap eats, kid-friendly To eat well in Sheffield, it pays to explore the inner-suburbs beyond the city-centre – and artisan bakery Forge Bakehouse is certainly worth the diversion. Its first-floor dining room is a Scandi-modern space (look-out for supper club events here), and downstairs, its sun-trap conservatory seating spills out onto the street. Tables are in big demand on bright mornings. As well as stellar pastel de nata and cinnamon swirls, Forge dispenses one-pots (stews, soups, curries), savoury tarts, French toast and brunch plates. Specials might include smoked haddock and baked eggs with spinach, gruyere and sourdough, or Toulouse sausage and mash with crispy bacon, caramelised onions and wholegrain mustard sauce. Note: Forge has a new second site on Hutcliffe Wood Road in Beauchief, and also sells its baked goods at Sheffield Station (currently, Tuesday, Wednesday, Saturday; soon daily). Snacks from £2.65, dishes from £6.50. Bragazzi’s Best for: casual dining, cheap eats This quaint Italian deli-café was nourishing discerning locals long before Sheffield got its foodie groove on. Claire Thornley, a co-founder and editor of essential Sheffield guide Our Favourite Places, says that it remains “a city classic". She explains; "For 20 years, they’ve been serving the best coffee in the city, and the best sandwiches in the world. Expect panettone in winter, gelato in summer and the best cheeses, meats and pasta all year round.” Panino £6.25. Bench Best for: casual dining Cocktail whizz Jack Wakelin and chef Tom ‘Ronnie’ Aronica are two of the sharpest minds on Sheffield’s food scene, and their first independent venture, Bench – a relaxed, neighbourhood hang-out for good drinks and elevated sharing plates – has established itself as one of the city’s defining modern restaurants. Aronica’s cooking is clever, eclectic and neatly reconciles big flavours in dishes such as beef fat potatoes, watercress and smoked cod’s roe; cavatelli pasta with cavolo nero pesto and chilli; or a bavette steak with roasted roscoff onions, salsa verde and a fish skin and seaweed seasoning. Wakelin and Aronica will this year open a second venue, The Pearl at Park Hill. Currently subject of a major regeneration programme, Park Hill is the brutalist 1961 tower block estate visible behind Sheffield Station. More of a bar, The Pearl will serve seasonal cocktails, natural wine and snacks. Plates £8-£20. Mavi Rüya Best for: casual dining, special occasions A handsome restaurant which, as well as looking the Anatolian part, is wowing locals with its topped pide, meze and charcoal-grilled meats. Platters of shish and minced adana kebabs, lamb chops, köfte and dishes of garlicky, butter-drizzled chicken or lamb, wrapped in lavash bread with various sauces, cheese and yogurt, make it, says John Harrison, owner of Sheffield micropub, the Beer House: “The best place I’ve been to this year.” Mains from £15.50. North Town Best for: casual dining Opened in 2020, the “hearty, authentic dishes” at this deli-kitchen made it an instant hit, says Claire Thornley: “It’s a super-cosy spot lined with vintage Italian newspapers and cycling mags. Start with the caponata and burrata, plough through the parmigiana and leave room for their incredible cannoli.” Plates £6-£18. INNER SUBURBS: BROOMHALL & AROUND Ashoka Best for: casual dining A Sheffield fixture since 1967, this compact, much-loved Indian restaurant was given a smart, retro-modern makeover a few years ago: all antique Indian café signage, wooden booths and shelves stacked with colourful, iconic South Asian products. Similarly, Ashoka’s food persuasively blends tradition and modernity. Scintillatingly spiced seekh kebabs emerge from a still charcoal-fired tandoor, while dishes, from Parsi lentil curry to the “Viceroy’s keema”, are kaleidoscopic in their freshly-ground, sensitively-spiced flavours. The dhal palak is terrific: buttery, savoury, thick with leafy spinach. Mains from £10. Elm Best for: casual dining, cheap eats A space of raw plaster walls and stylish retro furniture, with a vinyl turntable and hi-fi system as its eye-catching centrepiece, this hip hang-out majors in A1 coffee, cinnamon buns and hand-rolled Montreal-style bagels (they’re flatter and denser), innovatively filled with, for example, cured pork loin, truffled goat's curd, sweet pickled celeriac and crispy pig skin. Elm doubles as a retail store for a small selection of natural wines, books and sustainable homewares. Those low-intervention wines feature in irregular Thursday tastings and on Fridays, when cheeses, Curing Rebel charcuterie and wines are served until 10pm, alongside a carefully selected vinyl soundtrack. Bagels from £6. Napoli Centro Best for: cheap eats, kid-friendly, casual dining Whether it’s Dough Truck in Nether Edge or Porter Pizza in Sharrow Vale (see below), Sheffield is blessed with multiple options for slow-proved, fast-cooked Neapolitan-style pizza. Napoli Centro, is a tiny restaurant, takeaway and shrine to Naples – naturally, Diego Maradona features prominently – whose soft, chewy, beautifully-blistered bases come topped with both classic combos (organic tomatoes, mozzarella, high-quality salami, chilli flakes), and tempting white pizza creations of, say, smoked provola cheese, sautéed porcini, roasted potato, fennel sausage and truffled olive oil. Pizza from £7.20. INNER SUBURBS: SHARROW VALE The Porter Pizza Company Best for: cheap eats, kid-friendly, casual dining, vegetarians/ vegans In Sharrow Vale, Porter is flying the flag for wood-fired ovens and Neapolitan-style pizza, producing pies with puffy cornicione crusts and good so-called ‘leoparding’, the delicious spots of char created by super-hot domed pizza ovens. Try the Amore (olives, fennel seed salami, artichoke hearts) or Red Devil (‘nduja, red roquito jalapeños, red onion). The latter is also available in a meat-free version that uses a house-made plant-based ‘nduja; one option from a large range of vegetarian and vegan pizzas. Pizza from £6.50. SUBURBS: HILLSBOROUGH Orange Bird Best for: casual dining, special occasions Located a few miles from Sheffield city-centre in Hillsborough, this cool, cosy neighbourhood joint is garnering plaudits for its menus of modish, sharing dishes; many influenced by chef Matthew Duggan-Jones’ South African upbringing and fondness for cooking on a braai barbecue. Dishes might range from burrata, burnt radicchio and blood orange with a curry and kombucha dressing, to Durban-style ‘chops chutney’. In this case, Barnsley chops served on a spiced, almost curried tomato sauce with yellow rice and shrimp sambal. Homemade boerewors sausages come with smoked pork belly, polenta-like pap topped with whipped bone marrow, burnt onion and pomegranate molasses. Orange Bird is an accomplished feast of creative ideas. Larger plates £12-£18. 10 MORE SHEFFIELD HOTSPOTS Public - Exceptional modern cocktails in a stylishly remodelled former gent’s toilets below Sheffield’s Victorian town hall. Two Steps - Historic chippy (est. 1895; 249 Sharrow Vale Road), where the mushy pea fritters and brilliant Yorkshire fishcakes (fish, sandwiched in slices of potato, battered and deep-fried) retain a loyal following. Hungry Buddha - This Moor Market kiosk gets a lot of love for its Nepalese thali platters and momos. “Amazing food,” agrees Beer House owner, John Harrison. SHÖP - Jöro spin-off at Cutlery Works food hall, retailing cookbooks, high-end kitchen kit, natural wines and niche premium ingredients. Eve Kitchen - Small Sharrow Vale Road takeaway-café, famous for its beautiful handmade doughnuts and other baked treats (think: blood orange whipped cream brioche buns). Eve has a sister kitchenware store next door. Butta La Pasta - Chef Stephen Ogden’s seasonal fresh pasta restaurant also offers classes (£50pp; June 4, July 9, Aug 20), where 8-10 people get to grips with making oriechiette, tagliatelle and such, around a convivial shared lunch. Ambulo - Cut-above family-friendly canteen at Sheffield’s Millennium Gallery, featuring Yorkshire producers such Dark Woods Coffee and Sheffield’s own Our Cow Molly ice-cream. There is a second Ambulo at Weston Park Museum, too. Porter Brook Deli - Another Sharrow Vale Road favourite, for all your artisan cheese, cured meat and fine food needs. The Brewery of Saint Mars of the Desert - Acclaimed, adventurous craft beer brewery out in Attercliffe; tap-room open on Fridays and Saturdays (2pm-8pm). SHEFFIELD PUB SCENE Sheffield is one of Britain’s great beer cities. It is home to several top breweries and many amazing, historic pubs that take a modern approach to cask ale and craft beer. This scene is celebrated every March during Sheffield Beer Week, but, whenever you visit, you will have your pick of good pubs and great beer. Personal favourites include the pioneering Sheffield Tap on platform one at Sheffield Station; the nearby Rutland Arms (see above); that warm haven from the world outside, Shakespeare’s, a pub of huge character; and The Fat Cat for an essential pint of Pale Rider. When it was first brewed in Sheffield using American hops in the 1990s, Pale Rider was a ground-breaking ale. Beyond the city-centre, smaller beer hubs, often beer shops where you can drink-in, are thriving. Walkley Beer Co., Hillsborough’s The Pangolin, and, in Nether Edge, Turner's Bottle & Tap, fly the flag for good beer in the ‘burbs. On Ecclesall Road, the charming Beer House micropub is a reliably wonderful place to sink a pint. Demonstrating Sheffield’s seemingly unquenchable thirst for friendly, unpretentious pubs that foreground modern beer, it will soon open a second venue, Beer House S6, in Hillsborough. More UK city guides The best restaurants to eat in Exeter The best restaurants to eat in Cambridge The best restaurants to eat in York The best restaurants to eat in Bath The best restaurants to eat in Chester Best rooftop bars london For more like this, check out more restaurant recommendations Best afternoon teas in London Best themed afternoon teas in London Best afternoon tea for kids in London 10 best places in London to eat classic British dishes Best bakeries in London Best burgers in London Best pasta restaurants in London Best afternoon teas in the UK Don't see your favourite Sheffield restaurant? Leave a comment below... Travellers are advised to read the FCO travel advice at gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice for the country they are travelling to.
The best restaurants to eat in Liverpool
Discover the best eateries in Liverpool with Good Food's restaurant guide. This food scene has everything – Catalan classics, fine dining and boss burgers
All recommendations have been reviewed and approved as of the publish date and will be checked periodically. If you think there is any incorrect or out of date information in this guide please e-mail us at goodfoodwebsite@immediate.co.uk There's so much to tickle your tastebuds in this northern gem of a city, it's hard to know where to start. Never fear – our Good Food city guide is here to help you eat like a local at the very best restaurants we can find. Like what you see? Why not check out our other city guides – we have expert recommendations for the best places to eat in Liverpool, Manchester, York and Newcastle. Best restaurants in Liverpool at a glance Manifest - Casual dining, special occasions Buyers Club - Casual dining, cheap eats Duke Street Market - Casual dining, special occasions Barnacle - Casual dining, special occasions Madre - Casual dining, cheap eats Xiao Long Bao @ eJoy Asian Foods - Casual dining, cheap eats Röski - Casual dining, special occasions Bundobust - Casual dining, cheap eats Belzan - Casual dining Baltic Market - Casual dining, cheap eats, child-friendly Wreckfish - Casual dining, special occasion Little Furnace - Cheap eats, child-friendly Maray - Casual dining, special occasions The Art School - Special occasions Etsu - Casual dining, cheap eats Free State Kitchen - Casual dining, child-friendly Lunya - Casual dining, special occasion, child-friendly Pen Factory - Casual dining, cheap eats Leaf - Cheap eats, casual dining Manifest Best for: casual dining, special occasions Located in Liverpool’s hip Baltic Triangle neighbourhood, Manifest is a haven of interesting wines, interesting music and interesting food. Chef and co-owner Paul Durand (who has worked at Moor Hall and Edinburgh’s 21212), opens the menu with fun snacks of sourdough and Lancashire whey butter or warm salt and vinegar crisps. But as you might imagine, given that CV, there is serious knowledge and skill evident knowledge throughout a menu of small and larger plates. The meat-free dishes of, for example, torched hispi cabbage, swede, chestnut, crispy shallots and green peppercorn sauce or a memorable combination of lightly-charred, buttery carrots, with pickled beetroot and hazelnuts, goat’s curd and carrot top pesto, are very clever in their engaging layers of flavour and texture. Larger plates from £22. Buyers Club Best for: casual dining, cheap eats It would be easy to overlook Buyers’ Club. Quite literally, given its location in Hardman Yard (in summer, a great spot in which to kick-back with a negroni or spritz), is hidden off Hardman Street in a way likely to fox visitors. Head through the archway and you will discover a boho bar-restaurant that is producing some of the best Italian food in the region (beef shin arancini, cacio e pepe butter beans, whipped ricotta). Its fresh, handmade pasta dishes sing with flavour. Think: pappardelle with pork and fennel sausage, squash, sage and pumpkin seeds, or porcini and walnut tagliolini. Mains from around £11. Duke Street Market Best for: casual dining, kid-friendly, cheap eats Food halls are fashionable but few achieve the warm, friendly vibe of handsome Duke Street. Even when packed, it exudes a buzzy energy rather than feeling like a chore. Six kitchens keep regulars fed and entertained. Seafood lovers will be well-served at Kelp, Bone & Block’s prowess in the burger and steak game is firmly established, while Cahita’s Cubano sandwich is a multi-layered feast. At the time of writing, GSG Hospitality, the company behind Duke Street and impressive venues such as Bold Street Coffee, was about to launch Nord, a new restaurant with chef Daniel Heffy. It is one-to-watch. Mains from around £9. Barnacle Best for: casual dining, special occasions A collaboration between legendary Liverpool chef, Paul Askew (see Art School entry), Bone and Block’s Harry Marquart and chefs Kieran Gill and Jake Lewis, Barnacle – located on the mezzanine at Duke Street Market – is a sharp restaurant with a relaxed feel. Askew’s love of regional artisan producers and fine ingredients (Ormskirk leeks; Field 28 Rainbow Chard; 92 Degrees Coffee), is evident across an accomplished menu of slickly executed seasonal dishes underpinned by rigorous classical technique. Expect dishes such as venison terrine, endive, shimeji mushrooms and preserved lemon; smoked haddock chowder with cockles, samphire and dill; or Cumbrian ox cheek, mash and cavolo nero with a jus made using Neptune Brewery’s Seven Seas of Rye IPA. Two courses from £28. Madre Best for: casual dining, cheap eats From the team behind Belzan and Burnt Milk Hotel, Madre is a colourful taco restaurant which, in summer, extends out into a popular courtyard beer garden, with regular DJ-led sessions and margaritas flowing until late. Whilst a party venue, dishes such as roasted bone marrow with salsa macha, onions and coriander or quesadillas made with Madre’s own green chorizo (a Mexican take on the Spanish sausage, flavoured with green chillies and coriander), are testament to the seriousness of its cooking. Do not miss the birria tacos of slow-cooked, spicy beef shin with Oaxaca cheese. Main dishes around £9 - £12 Xiao Long Bao @ eJoy Asian Foods (1 Myrtle Parade, Myrtle Street) Best for: casual dining, cheap eats More than a supermarket, eJoy includes a row of street food-style kiosks and seating, should you wish to eat-in, where you can enjoy a range of east Asian foods, from handsome Chinese roast meats to Japanese kara-age fried chicken, spicy, offal-based noodle broths to Korean bulgogi beef. The wontons, steamed buns and eponymous soup dumplings at Xiao Long Bao (try the pork and Chinese cabbage or pork and prawn versions), are a firm favourite with clued-up local foodies. Meals from around £6. Röski Best for: Casual dining, special occasions After earning Devon’s Treby Arms a Michelin star and jointly winning Masterchef: The Professionals in 2012, Anton Piotrowski opened his refined Rodney Street restaurant in 2017. Pretty, technically accomplished plates are served in a chic, grown-up room – think grey banquettes, statement chandelier and Robert Welch cutlery. Piotrowski shows his fun side, too, with sourdough and Bovril butter, and a 100-day-aged beef nugget with chip shop curry sauce. But a starter of hot smoked salmon with heritage tomatoes and burnt butter, and particularly his Strawberry Fields Forever dessert (a picture-perfect construction), leave a lingering impression of great elegance. Set lunch is £95, or request their 'express tasting menu' for £65. The set dinner menu is £95. Bundobust Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats Despite the rivalry that exists between northern cities – particularly Manchester and Liverpool – they are happy to share great food, with many hip indies increasingly expanding along the M62 corridor. Go Falafel, pizzeria Rudy’s, burger slingers Almost Famous, and swanky Spanish joint, El Gato Negro, are notable imports from Manchester, while Leeds-based Bundobust is has found a home on Bold Street. This craft beer and Gujarati street-snack specialist has taken a huge first-floor space and decked it out in pastel shades and cool, kitsch design features. Its meat-free bhel puri, scrambled egg bhurji or tarka dhal are equally attention grabbing. If there’s a gang of you, just order the full menu: £105. Dishes from £4. Belzan Best for: Casual dining In many northern cities, the inner suburbs are the most interesting places to eat. Lark Lane in Sefton Park is one established foodie hub, but nearby, studenty Smithdown Road is on the up. Belzan is among those leading the charge, serving innovative sharing plates with a warm smile and zero pretention. It majors in natural wines, cocktails and sharp plates of, for instance, butter beans in beef dashi with parsley crema and cavalo nero, or lamb rump with feta, peas and strawberries. The ‘staff dinner’ is a clever riff on panzanella that boasted charred peppers and fennel on our visit. Large plates from £9. Baltic Market Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats, child-friendly Down in the Baltic Triangle, you’ll find a theme park of bars, restaurants and this street-food market that features an array of traders such as local pizza perfectionists Little Furnace, Middle Eastern kebab outfit Hafla Hafla, Patterson’s fried chicken and arepa sandwiches and more from Venezuelans, Noso. There are eight main traders, plus dessert, gin, beer and coffee bars. There is, literally, something to please everyone down here. Dishes from around £6. Wreckfish Best for: Casual dining, special occasions A Georgian building, stylishly revived in muted greys, exposed brick and handsome dark wood furnishings, houses Twitter legend Gary Usher’s Wreckfish. It has wowed Liverpool with the same creative nous and truffled parmesan chips that put his Sticky Walnut, in Chester, on the map. Dishes such as maple-cured salmon with caramelised lemon, mustard yoghurt and pickled celery or butter-roasted chicken breast with charred leeks, creamed potatoes and a lemon, maple and mustard sauce, embody Wreckfish’s neat blending of classic and contemporary influences. Strong meat-free options, too. Two courses from £22. Little Furnace Best for: Cheap eats, child-friendly Amusingly, there’s a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles pizza cookbook on display in the kitchen, but there is nothing cartoonish about Little Furnace’s dedication to authentic Neapolitan pizza. Long-fermented bases are gorgeously blistered with char from a wood-fired oven, slathered in sweet tomato sauce and topped with impressive ingredients. This small, busy space on Smithdown Road has a cosy, friendly feel, its industrial interior design features meshing rather than clashing with ornate tiles and Neapolitan art. Pizza from £8.50. Maray Best for: Casual dining, special occasions This Bold Street venue serves Levantine small plates in a setting of glazed-brick walls, Aperol Spritz cocktails and dressed-down staff. Paired with harissa-spiked hummus and a radish-flecked tabbouleh, its falafels are verdant roundels of fragrant, herb-packed joy. Lamb kofta with smoked paprika tahini also impresses, as do specials such as pickled squash with Savoy cabbage, dukkah & labneh. Plates from £4.50. The Art School Best for: Special occasions Paul Askew’s dishes – broadly modern British, underpinned by rigorous classical technique – continue to offer high levels of refined satisfaction. Sitting in this glamorous dining room, eating, say, hogget skilfully rendered in multiple variations, it’s easy to enjoy this pampering. Go on, spoil yourself. Four-course dinner with aperitif £85. Etsu Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats This neat, modest Japanese restaurant is a favourite with the city’s foodies. This is food of rare freshness, clarity and depth of flavour. Staples such as panko-crumbed tonkatsu pork, karaage fried chicken and udon noodle soups take on a renewed vigour, while the lunchtime bento boxes (try the crisp-skinned pan-fried sea bass) are lifted by vibrant pickles and sauces. Its bright, citrusy ponzu is a highlight. Meals from £8.95. Free State Kitchen Best for: Casual dining, child-friendly Free State knocks out, as locals might put it, seriously boss burgers. The setting, a Georgian building that opens out onto a lovely ivy-clad courtyard garden, makes a pleasant change from all those dark, grungy dens where you might usually eat ‘dude food’. But the menu – hot wings, dogs, clam chowder, mac ’n’ cheese – very much fits the address: 1 Maryland Street. The cheeseburger is a triumph. Mains from £9. Lunya Best for: Casual dining, special occasion, child-friendly Obsessive about Spanish – and particularly Catalan – food, Peter Kinsella has created a deli/bar/restaurant where everything sings with flavour, from a butifarra sausage sandwich to the secreto Iberico, a densely piggy shoulder cut from those famous acorn-fed hogs. Deep-fried goat’s cheese Monte Enebro with orange blossom honey, and the mojama (air-dried tuna from southern Spain) are all excellent. There is also a second branch of Lunya, Lunyalita, on the Albert Dock. Tapas from £4.50. Pen Factory Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats Friendly, casual warehouse bar-restaurant with good selection of real ales and gins. British and European sharing plates may include the likes of smoked haddock rarebit, pork chop with apple, kohlrabi and leaves or sea trout with salt-baked beetroot, beetroot emulsion, fennel and nasturtium. Larger plates from £10. Leaf Best for: Cheap eats, casual dining Natalie Haywood’s Bold Street HQ continues to pack in the punters thanks to its on-point, affordable grub and lively vibe (it's an art/music hub as well as an all-day eaterie). The menu runs from jazzy salads, such as roasted sweet potato and feta, or lamb kofta with tzatziki and warm flat bread, to mains such as an eight-hour braised ox cheek ragu pasta. Mains from £11.95 10 Liverpool foodie essentials 1) Bold Street Coffee Reliably excellent third wave coffee stop, covering all your cold brew and flat white needs. Also, great breakfast-brunch dishes and filled ‘buoy’ brioche buns. 2) Burnt Milk Hotel From the Madre team, small shop and bar selling diverting new wave wines, coffee and a short menu of platters and plates, such as pesto-dressed burrata or a three-cheese grilled sanger. 3) Raggas Much-loved Caribbean café and takeaway heading out of town on Smithdown Road. A top spot for favourites such as brown stew chicken, ackee ‘n’ saltfish, rice and peas, saltfish fritters and jerk chicken. 4) Hawksmoor Liverpool has an abundance of architecturally incredible spaces (in this case, the grade II-listed India Buildings), of the kind Hawksmoor - acclaimed purveyors of British grass-fed steaks - love to transform into handsome dining rooms. They arrived in town late 2022. 5) Black Lodge Next-level craft beer creators whose hip brewery-tap is one of the highlight’s of the Baltic Triangle. 6) The Egg Cosy, bohemian loft café and art gallery, on the top floor of Newington Buildings, The Egg’s creative soups and gorgeous quiches are legendary among Liverpool’s vegetarians and vegans. 7) Delifonseca Candice Fonseca helped pioneer Liverpool’s modern food scene and, in this restaurant and food hall, continues to do very tasty work. Food geeks will revel in the produce available, including British rare breed meats from in-house butcher Edge & Son, the multi award-winning Wirral legends. 8) Fritto Italian bakery and snack bar on Smithdown Road, serving arancini, pizza, focaccia sandwiches and panzerotti, the deep-fried pizza pockets from Puglia. 9) Baltic Fleet Splendid, stripped-back grade-II listed pub with terrific real ales and roaring log-burners in winter. If you like that kind of thing – historic pubs, excellent beer – The Ship & Mitre on Dale Street is also essential. 10) The Wild Loaf Amazing bakery-café for organic and heritage grain sourdough loaves, doughnuts, modish sweet treats and a grilled cheese sandwich for the ages. Located just out of the city-centre in Toxteth. Is there anywhere we've missed? Let us know in the comments below... More northern city guides The best restaurants in Liverpool The best restaurants in Manchester The best restaurants in York The best restaurants in Newcastle More UK city guides The best restaurants in Nottingham The best restaurants in Oxford The best restaurants in Belfast The best restaurants in Edinburgh The best restaurants in Glasgow Travellers are advised to read the FCO travel advice at gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice for the country they are travelling to.
Manchester has a thriving, exciting – and growing – food scene on all levels. From cutting edge cocktails and top-notch steaks to craft beers and bustling marketplaces
All recommendations have been reviewed and approved at the date of publication and will be checked periodically. If you think there is any incorrect or out-of-date information in this guide please e-mail us at goodfoodwebsite@immediate.co.uk Looking for somewhere to eat in Manchester? Our latest city guide can help. Tony Naylor is ‘the knowledge’ on the Manchester food scene and writes for magazines and newspapers including The Guardian. Here are his recommendations for the best places to eat. Best restaurants in Manchester city centre at a glance Erst - Casual dining, special occasion Kala - Casual dining, special occasion Flawd - Casual dining Porta - Casual dining, kid-friendly Asmara Bella - Casual dining Go Falafel - Cheap eats, kid-friendly Pollen - Casual dining, cheap eats, kid-friendly Where The Light Gets In - Special occasion, casual dining New Century Hall - Cheap eats, casual dining, kid-friendly Almost Famous - Casual dining, cheap eats Another Hand - Casual dining, special occasion Mackie Mayor - Casual dining, kid-friendly Exhibition - Casual dining Yuzu - Casual dining, cheap eats Siam Smiles - Casual dining, cheap eats Bundobust - Casual dining 10 Tib Lane - Casual dining, special occasion Grub Food Fair - Cheap eats, casual dining, kid-friendly The Jane Eyre - Casual dining El Gato Negro - Special occasion, casual dining Society- Casual dining, cheap eats, kid-friendly Sud Pasta - Casual dining, cheap eats, kid-friendly Maray- Casual dining Adam Reid at The French - Special occasion VNam - Casual dining, cheap eats Pancho’s Burritos - Cheap eats Common - Casual dining, cheap eats, kid-friendly Rudy’s Pizza - Casual dining, cheap eats, kid-friendly Hawksmoor - Special occasion, casual dining Erst Best for: Casual dining, special occasions A spin-off from neighbouring Trove, a local chain of excellent bakery-cafés, Erst’s fame has eclipsed that of the mothership. Its mix of on-point sharing plates and well-selected natural wines has won this Ancoats’ restaurant national recognition, and rightly so. Within this minimalist space (all polished concrete, brushed steel, breezeblocks, glass), head chef Patrick Withington, a former plumber, works his magic across beautifully blistered flatbreads (topped with beef fat and urfa chilli), escabeche mussels with lardo and toast, or spiced lamb shoulder with farro and celeriac. Dishes around £5 - £15. Kala Best for: Casual dining, special occasions Chef Gary Usher’s decision to name his restaurant group Elite Bistros was made hastily, tongue firmly in cheek. But in recent years his venues have set a North West benchmark for populist, quietly innovative bistro cooking (Usher also operates Hispi in Didsbury, South Manchester). King Street’s Kala maintains that run. In an attractive upstairs dining room (simply styled in green banquettes and darkly varnished parquet tables), enthusiastic young staff deliver dishes which routinely hit that sweet spot between modish ideas and tradition, technical rigour, interesting ingredients and flavours which land in immediately persuasive ways. Braised featherblade with truffled parmesan chips is an Elite Bistros’ classic, but expect to be equally smitten by a pig’s head croquette with poached pineapple and mojo verde, or a vegan plate of salt-baked celeriac and crispy kale with soy-pickled onion, roasted peanuts and sesame dressing. Two courses, from £23. Flawd Best for: Casual dining When Higher Ground opens as a permanent restaurant on the edge of the city’s Chinatown early in 2023, it will complete plans long delayed by the pandemic. In the interim, the same team has filled its time developing this extraordinary natural wine bar and diner in Ancoats. Despite working from an unusually basic food prep area (in terms of heating, the team is limited to a toaster, electric pressure-cooker and sandwich press), Flawd is producing some of Manchester’s most exciting dishes. Seasonally driven and often using ingredients from the regeneratively farmed Cinderwood Market Garden (which shares owners with Flawd), chef Joseph Otway’s short, clever menu of sharing plates bristles with creativity and compelling flavours. Dishes such as a deeply moreish whipped split pea dip; golden beetroot with salted gooseberries and elderflower; or summer yellow beans, goat’s curd and sungold tomatoes (dried into so-called ‘raisins’), will make you double-take that so much is achieved in such a limited kitchen with so few components. Dishes around £4 - £9. Porta Best for: Casual dining, kid-friendly Launched in Chester by brothers, Joe and Ben Wright, this impeccable tapas bar has latterly spawned two Greater Manchester sites (Altrincham, Salford). The Salford branch occupies a former bank on Chapel Street, walkable or a five minute taxi-ride from Manchester city-centre. Porta favourites such as Picos de Europa blue cheese with caramelised walnuts, sultanas and honey or the presa Iberica pork shoulder with mojo verde, are deft marriages of fine ingredients. A list of good-value wines from often overlooked regions seals the deal. Dishes from £4.20. Asmara Bella Best for: Casual dining A small, chilled oasis in the Northern Quarter, Samrawit Tekle’s Eritrean and Ethiopian restaurant has won a loyal following among East African heritage diners and clued-up food lovers new to her cuisine. At Asmara, deliciously lactic-lemony, spongy injera flatbreads are topped with vividly flavoured stew-like dishes, such as lamb tibsi (ghee-fried lamb with rosemary, onions, green chillies) and kitfo (chopped beef cooked in ghee, herbs and paprika). Orthodox Christian fasting rules have left the Eritrean and Ethiopian region with a rich repertoire of meat-free dishes and vegan-veggie diners will have a lot of fun here. From shero (spiced chickpea dahl) to a sensational hamli (spinach cooked in olive oil with chilli and garlic), the meat-free options will bring joy to your heart. Mains from £10. Go Falafel Best for: Cheap eats, kid-friendly For all the frenzied growth of Manchester’s food scene, the city centre lacks places where you can pick-up good, affordable grab ’n’ go food, particularly at night. Vegan Go Falafel is an unassuming lifeline, serving hot, crisp falafels with tahini, potent pickles, spiced potatoes, great hummus and salad, wrapped in satisfyingly thick, chewy Arabic-style flatbreads. Arguably, the best sub-£5 food bargain in the city. Wraps from £4.95; city-centre branches, 3 Newton Street and 99 Deansgate. Pollen Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats, kid-friendly At two city-centre venues, in New Islington Marina and Kampus, this bakery-cafe provides Manchester with, not just exceptional bread, coffee and pastries (Pollen’s croissants are glossy, lacquered beauties), but also ace brunch-lunch dishes, from crème brulée French toast with chilled crème anglaise to a panko-breaded tofu katsu curry sandwich. The sobrasada, seasonal greens and fried egg on toasted sourdough will gird you for a big day of sightseeing. Dishes £4 - £11. Where The Light Gets In Best for: Special occasions, casual dining This guide is focused on Manchester’s city-centre, but WTLGI is well worth the 10-minute train ride to Stockport. Hidden in a gorgeous warehouse loft, WTLGI is chef/hippy idealist Sam Buckley’s attempt to demonstrate how a high-end restaurant can operate in an environmentally and ethically sustainable way, with almost zero waste (no-choice set menus, natural wines etc). Buckley does this by working with foraged produce, low-intensity meats and seasonal vegetables, often heritage varieties grown on roof-top allotment, the Landing, above the Merseyway Shopping Centre. Dishes tend to punchy, flavour-packed minimalism (mutton, beetroot cream, fermented onions), but this is food shot through with fun ideas, too. WTLGI once created a ‘donor kebab’ for charity using wild mallard offal. Sister bakery-café, Yellowhammer, operates nearby. Menu from £75. New Century Hall Best for: Cheap eats, casual dining, kid-friendly Catnip for fans of mid-20th century modernist architecture, the striking New Century Hall has recently been revived as a gig venue and food hall. Highlights include the self-explanatory work of BaoBros23, whose noodle salad of confit pork belly and torched pineapple is full of exciting flavours. The delicious vegan banh mi at Banh Vi – complex creations of real flavour-heft and zing – are among the best plant-based sandwiches GF has tasted. Mains from around £9. Almost Famous Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats Premier exponent of, as Almost Famous describes them, “super-juicy dripping down your arms” burgers. The 2.0 iteration of the ‘triple nom’ double cheeseburger with slow-cooked pork, slaw and various sauces, is a prime example. Burgers from £10. Another Hand Best for: Casual dining, special occasions Tucked away up on Deansgate Mews, chef-owners Max Yorke and Julian Pizer have created a hip, cosy space – slick minimal house soundtrack, open-kitchen, buzzy atmosphere – where stellar produce (including rare mushrooms indoor cultivated in Altrincham) and historic skills (fermenting, foraging, smoking etc), meet cutting-edge technique in beautifully presented plates boasting huge depths of flavour. The modish menu of smaller and larger potential sharing dishes pulls in influences from all over, such as plates of trout tartare in burnt apple dashi, or chopped lamb with ginger, chilli and coriander. Note: by day, Another Hand serves a more casual, brunch-y menu. Evening dishes £7.50 - £20. Mackie Mayor Best for: Casual dining, kid friendly Altrincham’s Market House food hall has been one of the UK’s most influential openings of recent years. Its large city-centre sibling, Mackie Mayor, housed in a Grade II-listed building in the Northern Quarter, is similarly full of impressive food. Highlights include Honest Crust’s superlative wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizzas, Pico’s terrific tacos and Tender Cow’s burgers and steaks (its flat iron sandwich with béarnaise and caramelised onions on a ciabatta from artisan bakers, Lovingly Artisan, is recommended). Wash that down with beers from Blackjack Brewery’s bar or interesting wines from Reserve. Dishes from around £9. Exhibition Best for: Casual dining Exhibition is sometimes described as a food hall, but that’s a little misleading. Instead, think of this autumn 2022 opening as a full-service restaurant that just happens to have different kitchens you can order from simultaneously. Ramsbottom’s Baratxuri (creators of high-grade Basque-inspired pintxos), is the best known, but Scandi-influenced OSMA is doing impressive work, too. With dishes like OSMA’s elevated chicken thigh salad, its dressing created from anchovy and Westcombe cheddar, there is some very good cooking happening at Exhibition. Most of the menu is designed as sharing dishes. Don’t miss Baraxturi’s salt cod, served on still burning embers, or its crab-filled tortilla. If you want to push the boat out, its 1kg, bone-in txuleton of 50-day-aged, ex-dairy, Rubia Gallega beef (basically, one of the most prized cuts in the Basque Country), is a memorable way to drop £75. Most lunch/plates £8.50 - £12.50; larger sharing dishes from £26. Yuzu Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats While other restaurants loudly promote themselves, this unassuming Japanese restaurant on the edge of Chinatown keeps on at the business of being quietly brilliant. Regulars swear by its kara-age fried chicken with ponzu dipping sauce, prawn gyoza, sashimi selections, stir-fried udon noodle and donburi rice bowls. Mains from £9. Siam Smiles Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats Deansgate Mews café, where the four elements of Thai cuisine – spiciness, sourness, saltiness, sweetness – are handled with real aplomb. Various noodle, rice and salad dishes include, for example, a Phuket-style crab meat noodle curry, minced pork salad, laab moo, and vibrant tom yam noodle soups topped with pork and prawn wontons or fish balls and BBQ pork. Mains from £8. Bundobust Best for: Casual dining Hidden off Piccadilly in a large basement space (whose skylight windows offer evocative, grimy views of fire escapes and surrounding buildings), Leeds-born Bundobust is now firmly embedded in Manchester’s affections. Why? Because its Gujarati dishes – served street food-style in waxed-paper pots at communal tables – reverberate with bold flavours. Bundobust has always stocked blazingly modern craft beers and, in 2021, it launched its own brewery in Manchester on Oxford Street. It operates as a bar-restaurant too, and you can eat (tarka dhal of endless savoury depth, addictive chaat, legendary okra fries, the vada pav mashed potato burger with its super-zingy chutneys), sitting next to the tanks in which Bundo’s Dhania coriander lager or Chaitro porter are brewed. Dishes from £3.75. 10 Tib Lane Best for: Casual dining, special occasion Co-founded by the team from the former Cocktail Beer Ramen + Bun and tucked away near the town hall, 10 Tib Lane shares some characteristics with its forerunner (notably, a focus on good cocktails), but it’s an altogether cosier, calmer, candlelit bistro affair – a nook for couples rather than gangs of mates. Well-executed small and intermediate plates (pork chop, burnt apple pureé, celeriac remoulade; sardines and green sauce; beetroot, pickled walnut, mint and créme fraîche) reveal a French leaning, but, like the food in modern Parisian bistros, regularly stray further afield for inspiration – think Italy, Spain, India, Korea. Main plates £8 - £20. Grub Food Fair Best for: Cheap eats, kid-friendly, casual dining On the city centre’s Cheetham Hill border (head out under the railway bridges around Manchester Victoria station, then up Red Bank), you’ll find Grub, an indoor-outdoor DIY hub of northern street food activity. Things really get going Friday and Saturday nights with the Grub Food Fair (four traders weekly), while its Plant Powered Sundays have all your Korean pulled jackfruit burrito and seitan döner kebab needs covered. Dishes from around £6. The Jane Eyre Best for: Casual dining Attractive neighbourhood cocktail and wine bar in Ancoats, which, in its small plates, also knocks out impressive food. Think whipped cod’s roe and roasted squash, sesame tofu with house kimchi and ponzu, or a pork chop – toffee-like ridge of delicious crackling fat, sitting on five-star truffled pommes purée, topped with spiced apple compote) – which has become a cult dish among Manchester foodies. Plates £6 - £14. El Gato Negro Best for: Special occasion, casual dining Three-storey complex where Spanish food obsessive Simon Shaw has created this glamorous homage to Madrid, Barcelona and beyond. El Gato’s elaborate G&Ts set the tone, before boquerones and bikini sandwiches (jamón serrano, Manchego, truffle butter), followed by plates of bavette steak with romesco, caramelised red peppers and toasted almonds, gambas pil pil or octopus, sautéed potatoes, aioli and capers. Dishes from £6 - £16. Society Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats, kid-friendly A waterside neighbour of the Bridgewater Hall concert venue, this bustling food hall is home, among others, to a 44-tap bar from West Yorkshire craft beer aces, Vocation. Also, Aarti Ormsby’s reliably brilliant South Indian and street food-inspired menu at Chaat Cart, and terrific Swaledale beef smashed patty burgers at Slap & Pickle – hot tip: the Personal Cheesus double-cheeseburger. Mains from around £10. Sud Pasta Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats, kid-friendly Sud’s three branches: city-centre Ancoats and suburban Altrincham and Sale, serve painstakingly prepared southern Italian-inspired dishes (using fresh pasta imported from Puglia), radiating big flavours. The house sugo (an eight-hour ragu of beef shin, pork shoulder and n’duja), is a must, but all the combos sing, from calamarata with guanciale, cod loin, squid and tomatoes, to strozzapreti with broccolini, anchovy butter, chicken stock and pangrattato. Mains from £12.90 Maray Best for: Casual dining The arrival of Liverpool’s Maray (and its broadly eastern Mediterranean/post-Ottolenghi food aesthetic) has been warmly welcomed in Manchester. Expect falafel, fattoush and lamb shawarma, labneh and salt-baked beetroot or pork cheeks with tahini, amba sauce, balsamic and red pepper. Of course, one of the most Instagrammable dishes of the age, Maray’s disco cauliflower, has made the trip up the M62. This whole-roasted cauli comes elaborately dressed in chermoula, harissa, tahini, pomegranate, yogurt, almonds and parsley. Plates around £5 - £13. Adam Reid at The French Best for: Special occasion The grande dame of Manchester hotels, The Midland’s restaurant was given a new lease of life in 2013, when L’Enclume’s Simon Rogan took over this iconic space. Rogan has since departed and chef Adam Reid is now in sole control of its journey into the 21st century. Key dishes include Adam’s modish spin on that Lancastrian classic ’tater ’ash, and his Golden Empire – a 2016 Great British Menu-winner – in which a golden apple made of sugar is filled with meadowsweet custard, apple compote and hazelnut crumble. Menus from £45. VNam Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats At the time of writing, cult fave VNam was – check website for further details – poised to relocate from its relatively fringe location on Oldham Road to Edge Street in the Northern Quarter. It’s a move sure to broaden the appeal of a Vietnamese restaurant where the beef pho or the bun thit nuong BBQ pork noodles boast multiple dimensions of fresh, arresting flavours. Mains from £9.49. Pancho’s Burritos Best for: Cheap eats Britain loves a burrito, but Pancho’s Mexican owner Enrique Martinez goes beyond the standard Tex-Mex menu. As well as burritos, his Arndale Market stall serves topped enchiladas, tostadas and quesadillas. Details such as cactus leaves as an extra or the vividness of Pancho’s habanero salsa owe a debt to his mother’s tried-and-trusted family recipes. Burritos from £7.50. Common Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats, kid friendly Manchester’s Northern Quarter is hardly short of hip bars serving casual food and craft beers. But Common has always been a cut-above. In its latest incarnation, food is provided by Nell’s, Common founder Jonny Heyes’ new NY-style pizza concept. Pies come in individual slices, 14in or mammoth 22in versions, topped with everything from n’duja, pepperoni and chilli honey to burnt onions, Lancashire cheese and roast garlic cream, in a tangential tribute to the northern cheese and onion pie (geddit?). There’s a second, standalone Nell’s Kitchen pizzeria at the Kampus development, where, from January 2023, you’ll also find a new café from Great North Pie Co – arguably, the region’s best pie-makers – and a branch of Madre, the Liverpool taco aces. Don’t miss Madre’s slow-cooked beef shin tacos with Oaxaca cheese, served with their own spicy dipping broth. Slice from £2.25 Rudy’s Pizza Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats, kid friendly The original Rudy’s in city-centre Ancoats is now part of a national chain, with sites from Soho to Sheffield. It remains a top option for Neapolitan-style pizza. Expect to queue for a walk-in table at peak times, such is the appeal of Rudy’s nicely charred, puffy, softly foldable pizzas. The dough is proved for 24-hours but fired in just 60 seconds. These are topped with deliciously sweet, piquant San Marzano tomato sauce and, beyond that, everything from aged prosciutto to artichoke hearts. Most pizzas around £10. Hawksmoor Best for: Special occasions, casual dining The Manchester branch of the acclaimed Hawksmoor occupies an historic courthouse building, a perfect fit for the group’s wood-panelled, clubby aesthetic. Its relaxed service has won over a city that abhors pretentiousness and the food delivers, whether you’re dropping big money on British grass-fed steaks and triple-cooked chips, or grabbing a burger with Ogleshield cheese in the bar. Mains from £16. 10 More Manchester foodie essentials Idle Hands From cold brew and single-origin pour-overs to the (now) humble flat white, Idle Hands serves exemplary coffee alongside fine cakes, bakes and brunchy breakfasts. Schofield’s Bar Handsome, friendly cocktail bar where, to a soundtrack of vintage vocal jazz, the staff (led by owner-brothers, Joe and Daniel) create Manhattans, negronis and Sazeracs of such élan that in The World’s 50 Best Bars 2022 longlist, Schofield’s rated at 59 – the first UK bar outside London or Edinburgh to ever make the top 100. Salut Popular wine shop, bar and, in summer, al fresco pavement drinking spot. Salut has all wine bases covered, but if you’re looking to burrow deep into the natural wine niche, also check out Ancoats’ Kerb. The Smithfield Tavern Blackjack Brewery’s Smithfield is the perfect mix: a no-nonsense, old school boozer (complete with much-used dartboard and Seabrooks crisps) serving on-point, modern beers. Lily’s Deli Grocery spin-off from the Sachdev family’s much-loved meat-free Ashton-Under-Lyne restaurant, Lily’s. Its Ancoats store serves daily hot curries and dahls alongside chaats, samosas, Indian sweets and storecupboard essentials. Companio Bakery Bread supplier to several of the city’s best restaurants, or sample its offerings direct from the Radium Street bakery. Expect ace croissants, topped focaccia, savouries and sandwiches. Vurger & Co. The Manchester outpost of this vegan burger brand is quietly blowing minds with, in particular, its crispy, soy-based ‘chicken’ burger, which is almost indistinguishable from fried chicken. Siop Shop A site of pilgrimage for lovers of coffee, doughnuts and assorted baked treats. A fine place in which to recharge your batteries after (record/vintage clothes) shopping in the Northern Quarter. Wing Yip (Oldham Road, M4 5HU) A short walk down Oldham Road, the Manchester branch of Wing Yip supermarket, one of four in the UK, offers a vast array of Chinese and East Asian products. For more from East Asia, also check bakery, restaurant and food retail hub, Hello Oriental. Fat Hippo @ Lane 7 Should you want to go bowling on your visit (and why not?), be aware Lane 7 includes a concession from Newcastle’s next-level burger slingers, Fat Hippo. Try the Swiss Tony or the classic American cheeseburger. Enjoy this? Check out more of our UK guides The best restaurants to eat in Oxford The best restaurants to eat in Cambridge The best restaurants to eat in York The best restaurants to eat in Bath The best restaurants to eat in Chester Travellers are advised to read the FCO travel advice at gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice for any country they’re travelling to. Image credits: Chris Pople, Claire Harrison, Getty Images
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The best restaurants to eat in Cumbria and the Lake District
Visit Cumbria and the Lakes for breathtaking scenery and fine cuisine using local ingredients. We’ve got everything you need to know about this foodie haven.
All recommendations have been reviewed and approved as of the publish date and will be checked periodically. If you think there is any incorrect or out of date information in this guide please e-mail us at goodfoodwebsite@immediate.co.uk After a day of hiking across the Lake District’s scenic trails and exploring the area’s pretty towns, you will likely have worked up a good appetite. See our list of recommendations for excellent tuck which showcases the region's seasonal produce. Whether you’re looking for Michelin-star dining experiences, cosy inns, or quirky cafés, Cumbria has it all... Taking a trip up north? Read our other city guides – we have expert recommendations for the best restaurants to eat in Liverpool, Manchester, York and Newcastle. Best restaurants in Cumbria and the Lake District at a glance The Cottage in the Wood - Special occasions, casual dining L’Enclume - Special occasions Hare & Hounds - Casual dining Baba Ganoush soup kitchen - Casual dining, cheap eats, child-friendly Old Stamp House - Special occasions, casual-dining The Drunken Duck - Casual dining, special occasions The Beer Hall - Casual dining, cheap eats Chesters By The River - Cheap eats, casual dining, child-friendly Forest Side - Special occasions Pentonbridge Inn - Casual dining, special occasions The Hazelmere café & bakery - Casual dining, cheap eats, child-friendly Angel Lane Chippie - Cheap eats, casual dining, child-friendly The Punch Bowl Inn - Casual dining Lake Road Kitchen - Special occasions, casual dining Tebay Services - Cheap eats, casual dining, child-friendly Three Hares - Casual dining, child-friendly The Jumble Room - Casual dining Askham Hall - Special occasions Comida - Casual dining, cheap eats, child-friendly Cartmel Village Shop - Cheap eats, casual dining, child-friendly The Cottage in the Wood Best for: Special occasions, casual dining Hidden in Whinlatter mountain forest near Keswick, there is a fairy-tale quality to this whitewashed 17th-century property. It even sits on Magic Hill, a spot renowned for its optical illusions. The sense of seclusion is blissful, but this restaurant with rooms is thoroughly plugged into the modern world. Owners Kath and Liam Berney are engaging foodie enthusiasts who love new-wave small-producer wines. Chef Rich Collingwood’s distinctive cooking – including dishes such as rabbit with curried granola, date, tamarind and pickled carrot and a North African interpretation of Cumbria’s iconic Herdwick hogget – confidently blends classical, molecular and new Nordic techniques, intense global flavours and incredible local produce. Dinner from £75. L’Enclume Best for: Special occasions Simon Rogan’s three-Michelin-star flagship in a former blacksmith’s in Cartmel is a world-class restaurant. Rogan’s early avant-garde ideas and theatrical flourishes have been folded into a more natural, ingredient-led style inspired by his 12-acre farm. The tasting menu is quite an experience. Recover the next day at the informal Rogan & Co, also in Cartmel. Tasting menu £250. Hare & Hounds Best for: Casual dining This unfussy Bowland Bridge pub – all log burners, scrubbed tables and garlands of hops – has a lot to recommend it. From the chatty welcome of GM Kerry Gossio to the beer garden’s views across Cartmel Valley, it immediately puts a smile on your face. A menu of pub staples is affordable, portions are generous, and the execution is a cut above. Lamb hotpot (mined with black pudding beneath layers of softly creamy, distinctly dauphinoise-like potato) is unorthodox but very tasty. Mains from £13.95. Baba Ganoush soup kitchen Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats, child-friendly The coolest kids on Kendal’s block, this takeaway café specialises in soups, jazzy post-Ottolenghi salads and hip comfort foods – smoked bacon poutine, a gussied-up fish finger sandwich, spaghetti carbonara frittata – all boosted by chef-owner Nigel Platt’s commitment to proper cooking. Note: Baba will soon launch a new Sydney-inspired veggie brunch café, also in Berry’s Yard. Dishes from £4.50. Old Stamp House Best for: Special occasions, casual dining A prominent sketch of a ram from nearby Yew Tree Farm on the wall of this Ambleside restaurant is emblematic of chef-owner Ryan Blackburn’s love of Cumbrian produce. His signature dish – hogget three ways, with mushrooms, artichoke and potatoes cooked in rendered fat – is soul-stirring. Blackburn will soon open the casual Kysty (meaning ‘fussy about food’). Lunch tasting menu £55. The Drunken Duck Best for: Casual dining, special occasions Perched high in Barngates outside Ambleside, the bar area at this upmarket inn does a roaring lunch trade in global bowl meals and sandwiches (channa masala, ribollita, kofta and more). At night, after the walkers have drifted away, the kitchen moves up a gear or three with its on-point plates (mains £22) of lamb neck and spiced belly with freekeh, yoghurt and whey onions, or guinea fowl with salt-baked kohlrabi, watercress and onion. Two courses are £45 and three courses are £55. The Beer Hall Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats A kind of boho trading estate in Staveley (home to art galleries, bike shops and the ace bakery-café More?), Mill Yard also counts Hawkshead brewery among its tenants. Its buzzing brewery-tap bar serves A1 craft ales (try the NZPA), alongside unusually good beer bites, from sticky BBQ ribs to a tellingly cheffy cheese soufflé. Small plates from £2.50. Chesters By The River Best for: Cheap eats, casual dining, child-friendly Given its pretty location and outdoor seating, this modish canteen could pack in the tourists without lifting a finger. Instead this Skelwith Bridge star works hard to impress. Its veggie menu runs from hip brunch dishes (sweet potato fritter with peanut salsa and cucumber raita), to wood-fired pizzas and flatbreads which you can enjoy with innovative salads. Think: kimchi, jasmine rice, cauli, broccoli, chillies and peas, with a sesame dressing. Excellent cakes, too. Forest Side Best for: Special occasions With its bare tables and aproned waiting staff, Grasmere’s Forest Side is a modern take on the country house hotel. Like the decor, chef Kevin Tickle’s Michelin-star food blends classical and contemporary ideas. Foraged ingredients (used in a sensational mushroom broth, for instance) and vegetables grown in the kitchen gardens feature prominently in elegant dishes such as Tickle’s salt cod, kohlrabi, capers and lovage cream. Lunch from £55 and dinner from £85. Pentonbridge Inn Best for: Casual dining, special occasions An offshoot from Netherby Hall (its walled garden supplies the kitchen with produce), this swanky pub and restaurant is one to watch. Opened late 2017, its husband-and-wife chefs, Jake and Cassie White, were previously key players in Marcus Wareing’s two-Michelin-starred London team. A five-course seasonal tasting menu (£75) is indicative of the restaurant’s ambition. In the dog-friendly bar, choose classy versions of, say, beef and ale pie and fish curry. The Hazelmere café & bakery Best for: Casual dining, child-friendly, cheap eats Cumbria has endless quaint tea rooms, but this find in Grange-over-Sands has a notable contemporary vigour. An award-winning tea specialist, the Hazelmere serves numerous rare leaves with its afternoon teas and its lunch dishes such as potted Morecambe Bay shrimps or Cumberland sausage ‘n’ mash. Alternatively, grab a sandwich or cake (do not miss the Yorkshire curd tart) from the deli-bakery. Light meals from £4.25, afternoon tea from £19.95. Angel Lane Chippie Best for: Cheap eats, casual dining, child-friendly Good chippies are rare, so if you find yourself in Penrith, make a beeline for this chip shop café off Market Square. Owner Dan Harding, Young Fish Frier of the Year 2010, is a stickler for quality – hence the queues at peak times. Most folk are here for freshly cooked, glistening fish ‘n’ chips, but the Angel’s tray-bake pies (minced beef, steak ‘n’ ale), are cracking. Fish and chips from £7.80. The Punch Bowl Inn Best for: Casual dining This handsome Crosthwaite inn has been setting standards ever since Steven Doherty, former head chef of Le Gavroche, put it on the map in the 90s. The kitchen’s locally sourced cooking – try the twice-baked Lancashire cheese soufflé or braised beef and mash – has a real touch of class. Mains from £18.50. Lake Road Kitchen Best for: Special occasions, casual dining Noma alumnus James Cross has brought the famous Copenhagen restaurant’s ethos to Ambleside. He uses only seasonal, northern European ingredients, many of which he grows or forages. Creatively, however, Cross is his own chef. From a whole fried cauliflower with Finnish viili yogurt and pine to the mindbending beef he ages for up to 300 days, the food served in Lake Road Kitchen’s wood-lined dining room is flavour-stacked and revelatory. Dinner from £105pp. Tebay Services Best for: Cheap eats, casual dining, child-friendly A motorway services? Yes, but Tebay is no ordinary M6 pit stop. Family-run for 46 years, Tebay has evolved into a remarkable showcase for Cumbrian produce. Its farmshop is one of the region’s best delis and butchers, while – from curries and stews to a steak and Eden Gold ale pie – its cafeteria delivers the freshest, most flavoursome motorway food you will ever eat (this side of Tebay’s sister services on the M5 in Gloucester). Meals from £5.50. Three Hares Best for: Casual dining, child-friendly Sedbergh sits on Cumbria’s Yorkshire Dales border. Thanks to Nina Matsunaga’s inspired cooking and baking (and her partner James Ratcliffe’s fastidious sourcing), the modest Three Hares – more café than restaurant – has a mighty rep. From a breakfast of homemade blood cake and fried eggs to a sensational lamb faggots and mash, everything shines. This summer, the duo will open the nearby Black Bull Inn. The Jumble Room Best for: Casual dining This quirky little Grasmere gem – its menu is as idiosyncratic as its colourful interior – has been run by self-taught chef Chrissy Hill and husband Andy for 22 years. It is an outpost of individuality in a sea of Cumbrian twee. From Persian lamb or a Malay seafood curry to fish ‘n’ chips, the menu does a Phileas Fogg in some style. Mains from £19.95 Askham Hall Best for: Special occasions This gorgeous 13th century pile near Penrith, ancestral home of the Lowther family, has been transformed into a stylish restaurant-with-rooms with serious field-to-fork credentials. Chef Richard Swale’s dishes (think: lamb loin and neck, carrots, onions, beer, barley), make stellar use of produce from Askham’s gardens and the Lowther estate. Owner Charles Lowther also runs Clifton’s George & Dragon inn. Dinner from £110. Comida Best for: Casual dining, cheap eats, child-friendly Kendal’s Iberian evangelist, Comida pushes a bueno line in all-day Spanish food in a colourful, hard-edged space that’s more Dalston than Derwentwater. At breakfast, try the sourdough with sobrasada, shaved manchego and poached eggs, alongside a first-rate flat white. Later the menu takes in sassy bocadillos and well-executed tapas, from albondigas to Valencian fried popcorn chicken. Tapas £3.40 – £7.50. Cartmel Village Shop Best for: Cheap eats, casual dining, child-friendly This deli-café is best known as the home of the eponymous Cartmel sticky toffee pudding, the version which made this Cumbrian favourite famous. The puddings are now made at a separate facility, but you can still sink into a portion in the shop’s 16-seat café. The shop’s reliably good sandwiches, soups and quiches – some of its baking is mega! – are also available to take away. Light meals around £5.50. 5 foodie places to try Great North Pie Co From 14-hour braised beef and ale to classic cheese and onion, this Ambleside café and shop sells sublime pies. Unsworth’s Yard Located in Cartmel, Unsworth’s Yard is home to a brewery, cheese shop, vintners and kitchenware store. What more could you want? Tweedies Bar Traditional cask ales dominate in Cumbria, but Tweedies in Grasmere also has a strong selection of modern craft beers. Lovingly Artisan Aidan Monks’ sourdough is the real deal. This slow-fermented bread has taken decades to develop, and boasts enormous depth and complexity. Homeground A third-wave coffee spot and brunch café in Windermere that has local foodies frothing with enthusiasm. Discover more local cuisine in our guide on top 10 foods to try in Cumbria and the Lakes Enjoyed this? Read our other UK guides... Best places to eat in Nottingham Best places to eat in York Best places to eat in Newcastle Best places to eat in Oxford Best places to eat in Aberdeen Check out our travel hub for more foodie suggestions. Is there anywhere we’ve missed? Leave a comment below... Travellers are advised to read the FCO travel advice at gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice for the country they are travelling to.