Good Food Blog

The Great British Food Revival

Posted at , 07 March 2011 by Roxanne Fisher - Writer/Sub-editor, bbcgoodfood.com

British produce is in danger. More and more people are buying imported, manufactured equivalents of those culturally important ingredients that make our country what it is and, if we don't change our ways, we may lose the skills of treasured suppliers forever.

This is the message of BBC Two's new five-part food series and accompanying book, The Great British Food Revival, kicking off this Wednesday at 8pm. Ten chefs will be making the case for foods synonymous with Britain - everything from cauliflower to crab - and calling for all of us to take action.

Here James Martin, the series advocate of the Great British apple, talks to us about the importance of buying British.

Why did you choose to champion the Great British apple?
As the UK's biggest selling fruit, I believe it's something everyone can relate to. There were once around 1,500 different varieties in the UK; today we only really eat three of these. New growing techniques and high intensity production are overshadowing the great old varieties, mainly because 'manufactured' apples look a lot shinier and less flawed on the shelf.

Did you discover a new favourite variety during the making of the show?
The good old traditional Bramley is my favourite - but not necessarily the type we're used to seeing in our supermarkets. The old Bramley was a lot smaller and looked pretty gnarly but tasted much better. This isn't only true of the Bramley; many of the older varieties of apples have a stronger, sharper taste. We're so used to eating the modified versions of foods that our taste buds have changed. For the programme we carried out taste tests on the street, which were extremely telling. Often kids would spit out the old varieties claiming they were too sharp. Older generations had the opposite reaction.

Open quotationThe responsibility for changing the fate of dwindling British produce lies with the consumerClose quotation

Do you think the responsibility for saving British produce lies with the consumer or with the supermarket?
It's ludicrous that despite British apples being in season throughout the year we continue to import as much as 60% of the apples we see in shops. Supermarkets are simply responding to and filling a demand - the responsibility for changing the fate of dwindling British produce lies with the consumer. If people don't make a conscious effort to buy good British food, supermarkets won't stock it and producers will continue to go out of business. People wanting to experience the real thing should hunt out their nearest farmers' market; they're great places to find varieties that are at risk of dying out.

You're showcasing the apple in three different recipes on the show. Can you tell us what you chose to make?
I made a classic apple charlotte, which will hopefully appeal to everyone, as it's a nice, quick favourite. Sticking with the traditional I also made a slightly more challenging apple custard tart and a savoury dish of roast pork with an apple cider sauce.

Have you found it increasingly hard to source British produce as suppliers continue to go out of business?
Suppliers are certainly disappearing but there are still many people who produce quality British ingredients. Their dedication and commitment to their trade in such trying times makes their produce extra special.

There have been a lot of campaigning food shows recently. Do you think they're having an effect on people's attitudes to food?
I think knowledge is a powerful thing. It's important to educate people about produce, particularly produce from their own country, and give them the ability to make an informed choice about what they buy. The masses are the ones who can make a significant change and programmes like The Great British Food Revival are able to reach them.


Do you agree with James? Which British foods would you champion?

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Comments

  • 8 March 2011, 12:10PM

    realkentcider

    Open QuoteJames spent all day at our orchard and our Rough Old Wife Cidery in Kent (the picture of him in this blog is in front of one of our ancient Bramley trees). Very genuine comments coming from a guy who was brought up on a farm and knows the evocative smell of a freshly picked "real" apple - hopefully our cider did his pork justice as well! This program should do great justice to getting re-acquainted with our British Heritage foods. Ps. He did spend what seemed like an eternity getting a few lines out (true professional) whilst picking an apple off that tree - it's a good job we had plenty on it with the number of takes!!! Simon Reed - Rough Old Wife Cider

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  • 8 March 2011, 1:08PM

    MsCupCake

    Open QuoteSpot on, James! Good luck with this. You sometimes have to look HARD to find the British apples - and it's no good rueing the day when they HAVE disappeared. I will try harder to buy from the farmers' market, though, not just from my (decent) supermarket ....

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  • 8 March 2011, 2:29PM

    Shaz_R

    Open QuoteI�ve been living in Cyprus for a few months and have to say you can�t beat good old British produce; it�s one of the things I miss most. Growing up in Shropshire and I�m used to being surrounded by farm shops selling local home grown fruit and veg. I don�t think enough can be done to promote and conserve the treasures we grow in Briton. Well done James x

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  • 8 March 2011, 2:31PM

    Shaz_R

    Open QuoteI've been living in Cyprus for a few months and have to say you can�t beat good old British produce; it's one of the things I miss most. Growing up in Shropshire I'm used to being surrounded by farm shops selling local home grown fruit and veg. I don'��t think enough can be done to promote and conserve the treasures we grow in Briton. Well done James x

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  • 18 March 2011, 7:37PM

    Apple Pie

    Open QuoteYou say it rests with the consumer to buy to persuade the supermarkets to source nearer to home. They say the consumer wants apples 4 to the 1/2 kilo; straight beans or bananas etc. but no one has ever asked me! How about organising some sort of petition that could show supermarkets how the consumer really feels? Some are beginning to try - but let us chivvy them up! Make a real feature of local produce and DO NOT cheat the producers by unrealistic standards and withdrawal of agreed prices.

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  • 23 March 2011, 8:44PM

    marketman

    Open QuoteAs a fresh food fanatic I am keen to know whether the mutton in the current episode is slaughtered using humane methods or are halal methods used. I am keen to establish a ruling where all meat will be marked if killed using halal methods. Unfortunately it seems to be a taboo subject as every time I raise the issue my emails are ignored. I really do believe that a hge amount of meat sold these days is slaughtered using halal methods. I think we should have a choice whether we purchase it or not.

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  • 23 March 2011, 10:17PM

    French Tart

    Open QuoteWELL said marketman, I think that halal slaughter is cruel and I wonder why the RSPCA do not intervene. I never eat in any restaurant that advertises that the meat is halal........on the to subject of mutton, I remember my granmother making a wonderful mutton stew, so full of flavour.

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  • 24 March 2011, 2:18AM

    katz41

    Open QuoteI've signed up for an organic box scheme..hopefully get more local produce that way!!

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  • 31 March 2011, 8:59PM

    Georgie

    Open QuoteI am a great supporter in local / British food and always try to make sure that is what I buy and this pregame is brilliant to get the message over to people who either don't care or perhaps have not given food a thought and just buy what they need. But one thing I would like to point out, as I watch each week it does not make sense to me that we push the English food but what is with the Oil! Olive oil in nearly everything .... why not use good old English Rape seed oil? lower in calories, reduces cholesterol and high in Omega 3 & 5? and made in the UK!! after all that is what the programe is all about.

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  • 1 April 2011, 1:53PM

    miniminx

    Open Quotegreat programme although i'd like to point out that it's the great BRITISH food revival...not just english! where's all the fabulous scottish and northern irish produce, like kippers and 'proper' beef?

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  • 9 April 2011, 1:20PM

    kazduckfic

    Open QuoteI was inspired by the crab suggests so resolved to see what I can do on my next visit to the supermarket - I was stunned that both canned options were from Vietnam which left me completely speechless

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  • 11 November 2011, 8:06AM

    anthony

    Open Quoteyour programme is full of good intentions but has just become another 'celebrity chef' outlet,if you really want to promote British foods,keep the recipes simple.

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  • 16 November 2011, 8:22PM

    Rosemary

    Open Quotehave watched all the series so far, really good!! but can anyone help.... we saw Philip Whaites, the head gardener of a walled garden in cheshire to-night, trouble is, I missed which garden it was! Can anyone tell me the name of it, where it was, and also, if it's open to the public, as i would love to go and have a closer look to get some ideas for our own small walled garden!!

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  • 18 November 2011, 12:19AM

    Phil

    Open QuoteFascinating and exciting programme. I am lucky my mum and grandma knew about the old stuff, and I know what to look for. We have a bad habit of talking our food down and extolling the virtues of foreign market cultures. Come on Britain, show that we can be proud of our own food heritage, especially our puddings - our hidden secret weapon!

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  • 18 November 2011, 12:23AM

    Phil

    Open QuoteWe get annual visits from French and German gastronomes, selling their wares to us poor Brits and we think they are great. Can't we get some enthusiastic fruit,veg,cheese,cider, beer,meat traders to embark on a tour, first of all in Britain, then maybe on the continent, to show how good we are as well?

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