Don't make it like they used to

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Posted at 11:00AM, 21 February 2011 by Carol Wilson - Food writer

When I learnt to bake, I was taught basic skills such as creaming, whisking and folding. Pastry was fun to make; rubbing the fat into flour and feeling the dry ingredients come together when water was added to form a dough that felt 'right'.

A friend's daughter made an Apple pie at school recently - using ready-made shortcrust pastry and a tin of apple pie filling. Where's the skill in that? Yes, peeling, coring and slicing apples is fiddly and making pastry means there's more washing up, but I don't think it can match the unbeatable flavour of a pie made from scratch with real apples and homemade buttery pastry .

Another friend always buys ready-made pastry - ready-rolled if possible. She won't make dough as she hates the 'gungy sticky feeling' on her hands! Puff pastry I can understand - all that rolling, folding and chilling - even chefs buy good quality puff pastry, but shortcrust pastry is so easy to make. People usually tell me that they never make pastry and when I say I always make it myself, they look at me in amazement. I made a Lemon meringue pie last week and was speechless when someone said 'This is nice', and then asked if it was from a leading supermarket!

It seems that many people rely on shortcuts that do away with the need to know any traditional skills at all.

My granny could whip up a delicious cake in minutes without the need for weighing scales or a recipe. But now it seems that many people rely on shortcuts that do away with the need to know any traditional skills at all. It's horrible to imagine that we might follow the American trend of cake recipes listing '1 box yellow cake mix, 1 box white cake mix' in the ingredients.

It's sad to think that the traditional kitchen skills, which we once used every day, are now becoming less frequently practised. I have a baking book published in 1932. Whole chapters are devoted to explaining the difference between a rubbed in mixture, creamed mixture, gingerbreads made using the melting method and whisked sponges. The different methods are explained in detail with advice on techniques for perfect results.

Our lifestyles have changed enormously since granny's day, but surely we all need to know the basic skills needed in baking, along with cooking methods such as braising, poaching and how to make tasty stock.

Some people haven't the faintest idea of how to make custard or gravyand rely on ready-made. I'm astonished that lots of people buy expensive packets of crumble mix to scatter over fruit before baking, or batter mix for pancakes or Yorkshire pudding. As you have to add an egg and milk to the latter, why not just weigh out the flour and do it yourself? But it seems even a packet mix is beyond some people; now you can buy pancake mix in a plastic container and all that's needed is to add cold water, replace the lid, shake and the batter is ready to use.

Old favourites such as Braised lamb shanks and Treacle tart are back in fashion in restaurants. I hope the revival of dishes such as these will encourage everyone to spend time getting back to basics in the kitchen.

Do you still bake from scratch?

Comments

1-20 of 27 comments

Ellie Reade

21 February 2011, 1:11PM
Ellie Reade

I try to make things from scratch where possible although it's not always possible (the only reason I know use a breadmaker is that I've had Carpel Tunnel surgery on my wrist! darn it). There is however one ultimate sin - can't bear the thought of frozen yorkshire puddings and lord forbid roast potatos. I'd rather have a few plain boiled spuds then waste money on Aunt you know who! I do have a few confessions though and that is ready to roll puff pastry and fondant icing - life is far too short!

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Kevin Anthony Ashton

22 February 2011, 12:28AM
Kevin Anthony Ashton

Hi Carol, Hope you are well I liked your article very much and totally agree with you. Ever since the demise of domestic science classes in favour of "food technology" cookery lessons in schools vary greatly. Politicians still need to repair the damage that was done in the 80's and put basic cookery skills back into the national curriculum. We, in the biz should have an important say in the contents and methodology in that curriculum.

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ZeTallGerman

22 February 2011, 6:13AM
ZeTallGerman

Well said, Carol, well said! I make everything I can (as you said, naturally NOT puff pastry!) from scratch. I guess I'm lucky as I have no other choice: I live in Dubai and we cannot get ready made shortcrust pastry and many other things. I've never understood why many people say it's difficult to make (no, it isn't). And ready-made Yorkies? Honestly? I don't mean to sound cocky but I made Yorkies the first time last year and they were perfect: as long as the oil is smoking hot and you leave the oven door shut, they will rise! I grew up in Germany, where "come over for a coffee" also means you'll be given a slice of cake. Just opening a pack of biscuits would almost be considered "rude". I had never even heard of a "ready bake cake mix" until I was in my teens! It really isn't rocket science and I applaud cook books like Jamie Oliver's Ministry of Food!

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nanasandie

22 February 2011, 8:34AM
nanasandie

Totally agree with Carol. I was given two beautiful books as a birthday present on cupcakes. The books were printed in America and all recipes were based on boxes of cake mix, very disapointing! I recently took a stall in our local market selling my homemade cupcakes, tray bakes etc (a lot of recipes were from Good Food) and people were queuing up to buy good home made produce made from scratch, nothing out of a box or a tin could taste as good!

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Ellie Reade

22 February 2011, 1:49PM
Ellie Reade

My memories of Home Economics is of very happy times. I grew up in the South East and I remember the Fish Board visiting to teach us how to fillet fish...we learnt how to make bread and all kinds of things.....I then moved to the Midlands and my 1st cookery lesson....muesli! MUESLI I ask you.....mix and bits together and that's it. I was so disappointed and it shows the difference in LEAs.

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Lexi99

22 February 2011, 1:51PM
Lexi99

I totally agree! Im 20 and have just recently got into cooking, learning how to make basic thing from scratch like soup, spag bol, shepherd's pie etc. I've been able to make things like pastry and cakes since i was little though and although i do occassionally enjoy the odd Devils Cake Mix there's something so much more satisfying about making it yourself. If i have the time to do it then why not!

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StormyRaincloud

23 February 2011, 9:26AM
StormyRaincloud

I can't tell you how much it irritated me when my kids needed ingredients for 'home economics' or whatever it's called now. Tinned pap, packet pap. Or pasta and a tin of tomatoes. I have taught them how to cook properly, cheap healthy home made food. I should be a food teacher!

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sacha

23 February 2011, 3:36PM
sacha

have to agree with everything , i have a family of three kids and one husband and every night we all sit down to eat a homemade meal, i have taught all three the basics so they can "survive" once they leave home, i always cook batches of homemade cheese straws for my daughters accordion band, they cant get enough of them

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mdn123

23 February 2011, 4:20PM
mdn123

I agree with Carol and I feel very sad that so many people have no interest in preparing a meal from scratch. I encouraged both my children to cook with me and enjoy a wide variety of flavours from a very early age and now both of them as adults enjoy cooking and experimenting with new dishes. Many say that they cannot afford to feed their families well but these are usually the people who rely heavily on processed foods. Good nutritious food can be cooked at affordable prices with a little imagination.

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SkylarkSarah

23 February 2011, 6:40PM
SkylarkSarah

When I was at school we had to make everything from scratch (still remember the bus ride home with a chicken casserole on my lap). All my children including my 3-year old are dab hands in the kitchen - there are plenty of real cooking shortcuts that can be passed on but there is real pleasure in creating something from scratch. Must admit to using ready roll pastry, inc. shortcrust, as have always failed to do a good job. Am inspired to try again!!

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Traude

23 February 2011, 7:09PM
Traude

Like all the above, everything is made from scratch in my house. Like zetall german I grew up over there (Austria in my case) and because of family circumstances I started cooking when I was 9 years old. Recently I returned to baking my own bread, and having read that kneading it by hand is good for arthritis, I knead by hand - does not take that long.

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villanova

24 February 2011, 8:29AM
villanova

I agree with other posters that my thorough grounding in cooking came from a combination of my mum (for example we always made apple pies from scratch when I was off school with a cold) and great Home Economics 'O' level, where we were taught to cook properly, but also to budget and nutritionally balance menus. Both my kids are learning 'at mum's elbow' - although I don't cook from scratch every night, I do involve them whenever possible (chopping mushrooms, loading pans, stirring and tasting - even at 5 and 1 their palates are developing, and they definitely eat more if they've helped cook it. Last night's beetroot muffins (just substitute the grated carrot in a carrot cake recipe) went down a storm!

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Lushious

24 February 2011, 9:32AM
Lushious

I cannot agree more. You have to let your children loose in the kitchen as well to experiment a bit. I used to go into my Nan's kitchen, have a look in the cupboards and see what I could make (not always a success I hasten to add. I remember peppermint creams made with flour and granulated sugar!!) But I have no qualms (well not many) about my own children cooking on their own. Yesterday my son of 8 made a victoria sandwich and my daughter of 12 cooked a roast chicken for lunch and homemade bread (ok in the breadmaker!) As Villanova said, being involved gives them encouragement to try new things and experiment with flavours and textures.

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ZeTallGerman

24 February 2011, 10:01AM
ZeTallGerman

I also find that involving children in the kitchen (or as Nigella puts it: "I'm a firm believer of child labour... in the kitchen" :-) definitely widens their palates and encourages them to try new things. I remember that many veggies suddenly tasted a lot better because I was the one who had chopped / washed / stirred them! I've tried this with my young cousins and there something psychological about it - once they were involved with making it, even the much-hated broccoli or spinach starts to taste nice!

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Lolly

24 February 2011, 12:39PM
Lolly

I think there is some truth in this but there seems to be lots of cooks/chefs doing their bit to try and teach us the basics and there are lots of books available which are great - information is widely available on the internet via blogs/forums/websites and via videos etc - so ultimately it is up to us really. Basic home economics and home management should be part of the school programmes though; cooking basics as well as basic DIY, home (interior and exterior) maintenance checks for people starting homes would be an excellent additional to the syllabus and one I would have found very helpful!

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Clare James

24 February 2011, 9:03PM
Clare James

I completely agree... I remember saying to my cousin "but it's easy.. pastry is half fat to flour, and for cakes you weigh the egg and everything else is the same..." My son of 7 knows this, and my 3 yr old daughter is learning too! They wolfed home made toad in the hole yesterday and we are baking bread tomorrow, and they ask to be involved when we're cooking our everyday food. It definitely tastes better!

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Deb

24 February 2011, 9:25PM
Deb

I remember my home ec lessons with a mixture of love and hate. Love for the mixture of science and cooking, our teacher used to make us beat our sugar and butter until it floated in a little glass of oil. Apparently if it was light enough to float it was ready to add the eggs with a little flour at a time, to ensure they didn't curdle, another chemical reaction. The hate was the post war style food she used to make us produce.... Cheese and stale bread bake, can't remember the proper name but the thought of soggy bread, cheese and I think milk turns my stomach. It definitely helped me to be the cook I am today, although I am from a lineage of cooks when I think of it. Today I have four boys who all help in the kitchen and I bake every friday with the 11 year olds at the school, apparently it can be passed as art!! Hopefully it will inspire them to enter the kitchen themselves...

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Trish

25 February 2011, 10:40AM
Trish

There's nothing my grandchildren like better than to help in the kitchen. This week, my 8 yr old granddaughter made tomato soup, Lamb Rogan Josh and scones with me. She and her 6 yr old brother made chocolate muffins with their Mum on Monday. They both love preparing and cooking food. And in doing so, learn about nutrition, where food comes from, how to weigh ingredients, hygiene and safety. The only part they don't enjoy is the washing up! I can't think of many activities that are as fun and educational as cooking. A great way to to spend quality time with your kids.

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G.H. Recipes

27 February 2011, 3:43PM
G.H. Recipes

I totally agree that the simple art of home cooking seems to be a dying skill. I am proud to say that my two sons (aged 31 and 33) and my 26 year old daughter are very good cooks who not only are able to follow a recipe but are very creative and experimental cooks. I am pleased about this because it shows how much they have learned from the cooking that went on at home as they were growing up. It is as much an attitude as a skill I think! If we want something different for dinner we look at a cook book or Good Food website and not the supermarket ready meal section!!!

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smitty

1 March 2011, 10:07AM
smitty

Yesterday in the supermarket I noticed ready made cupcake mixture- just shake it up and pour into the paper cases. Unbelievable!

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