Good Food Blog
Nuts about chestnuts
Posted at 10:20AM, 30 October 2009 by Carol Wilson - Food writer
I can't wait to see fresh chestnuts appear in greengrocers and supermarkets at this time of year.
Unlike other nuts, chestnuts contain almost no fat and their starchy sweetness makes them very versatile. They can be boiled or roasted, and added to stuffings, soups, stews and casseroles; their earthy flavour goes particularly well with green vegetables such as cabbage or sprouts and they are also good stewed with stock, butter and a little sugar to serve as a side dish in their own right. I add a few roughly chopped roast chestnuts to meat pies for texture and flavour. Chestnuts can also be combined with sugar and other ingredients to make delectable puddings, desserts and cakes.
The chestnut season is brief, but whole peeled chestnuts, either canned or vacuum-packed, are available from major supermarkets. Dried chestnuts are also available from health food stores, but must be soaked in water overnight then simmered before use. 450g fresh chestnuts (weighed in their shells) are equivalent to 175g dried, reconstituted chestnuts or 350g tinned or vacuum packed nuts. Canned chestnut purée, plain or sweetened, is a godsend as it saves hours of preparation. I make an unusual (but very easy) ice cream by stirring together whipping cream, icing sugar and a tin of sweetened chestnut purée.
In Portugal, I discovered that chestnuts are boiled in lightly salted water with a little aniseed
Fresh chestnuts must always be cooked before use and are never eaten raw, owing to their tannic acid content. I slit the shells (to prevent them exploding in the oven!) and place them on a baking tray or in a roasting tin and put into a hot oven - Gas 6/200C for 15-20 minutes. I also boil them sometimes - simmer the peeled nuts in a little boiling water for 15-20 minutes until tender. When I was in Portugal, I discovered that chestnuts are boiled in lightly salted water with a little aniseed, which gives the nuts a delightful flavour. Peel the nuts whilst hot (it's impossible to peel a cold chestnut!) to ensure the complete removal of the inner brown furry skin, called the 'tan', which is bitter.
Chestnut flour, made from dried ground chestnuts, is worth seeking out from larger supermarkets, specialist food shops and delicatessens. The pale brown flour has an unusual but pleasant smoky flavour and is gluten-free and nutritious. I use it to make tasty breads, pancakes, fritters and cakes and as a thickener for soups and stews. I picked up a recipe in Tuscany for a fabulous chestnut cake, made with chestnut four, walnuts, rosemary, raisins and olive oil. I serve it warm, when the inside is still creamy - it's delicious on its own or with cheese. Chestnut flour doesn't keep well, but can be frozen, well wrapped, until needed.
How do you use chestnuts?
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