Eating locally abroad

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Posted at 3:40PM, 28 July 2009 by Emily Boyce - Sub-editor, bbcgoodfood.com

When I plan a holiday, I don't make a list of must-see sights or agonise over beachwear. I don't choose destinations based on museum count or buzzing nightlife. No, I'm really only interested in what I'll be eating, which is why more often than not I end up in Italy.

And while I'm there, eating well is an obsession that can make or break the holiday. Take my trip to Sicily last summer. While Palermo's noise and grime were a bit of a disappointment, turning the corner from the hotel we chanced upon a rustic joint with no indoor seating, just plastic tables and chairs in the street. Super-fresh squid, prawns and miscellaneous fish were being flung on a huge grill by a rotund Sicilian and delivered to tables by his equally portly sons. My enjoyment of a ridiculously good value mixed seafood grill was enhanced by feeling thoroughly smug about having stumbled into this authentic scene all by myself.

Why is it that even though we pick places from guides, we're horrified when we're not the only tourists in there?

The next night we searched out a place that had been recommended in the guidebook for its spaghetti with lobster. As we approached, I heard English-speaking voices and spied a copy of our guidebook on a table, instantly crushing my illusions of fitting in with the locals. Why is it that even though we pick places from guides, we're horrified when we're not the only tourists in there? A hawker hovering in the doorway attempting to lure us in was the final straw.

I insisted on looking elsewhere, only to end up at a distinctly average restaurant sulking over a distinctly average bowl of pasta con le sarde. While my boyfriend chomped his way through it quite happily, I was devastated at a precious night of good eating missed.

Do you spend your holidays seeking out only the finest and most authentic culinary experiences? Or do you relax and go with the flow? What's been your best (or worst) foodie holiday experience?

Comments

Hel - Brit in Beijing

29 July 2009, 3:26AM
Hel - Brit in Beijing

Food is as important as the sights for me. Our best experiences were both in Italy. The first was when we went truffle "hunting" with the B&B owner and then sat down to huge plates of polenta with fresh butter and wedges of shaved truffle. The second was in Rome when we found this tiny restaurant totally off the beaten track. Locals only, Italian menu, she in charge of the food, he the drink. Perfect. Worst was in Amsterdam when the couple we were with insisted on Italian and it was terrible. Next time I wont be polite - I'll tell them to enjoy their pizza whilst we ate local!

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Becks

29 July 2009, 3:18PM
Becks

One of the most useful tips I've ever been given is to find a really good food shop wherever you are, then ask the owner where they would go to eat. Works every time! Also, if you're anywhere outside Europe or America, eating on the street is usually better than anything you'll get in a restaurant. Walking into a Vietnamese market, sitting down at the nearest food stall and being fed until we nearly burst was one of my best experiences. I had no idea what I was eating but it was amazing nonetheless!

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MindyaCalling

31 July 2009, 2:26PM
MindyaCalling

Best advice I can give is get out of the town and into a village. If you come to Veilko Turnovo try Abernasi just out side of the City. Try the restaurant with the mini zoo!! Eat at a easy pace under the trees. Try Kavarma, pork, red peppers,onions, tomatoes,mushrooms Chubritza( a local herb). Lots to choose from, spoilt for choice. Bulgaria has so much to offer the foodie.

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mad auntie

1 August 2009, 11:51AM
mad auntie

If you visit Hong Kong, try some of the 'hole in the wall' little eateries used by the locals. They usually look like greasy spoons with their plastic tablecloths (if any) and noisy patrons, but the food is generally super-fresh. Our best find was on one of the little islands off-shore, where for a pittance we dined on big steaming bowls of who knows what freshly wok-ed. A bit of an adventure!

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favourites

1 August 2009, 2:55PM
favourites

We went to Hong Kong a couple of years ago and our guide suggested trying a steak at a local restaurant. I asked for my steak to be medium, outcame a raw bit of what looked like belly pork! I sent it back but it came out the same again. We left and went to another restaurant but unfortunately the menu was all in chinese, we decided to share whatever we ordered. As we didnt understand the menu all that arrived was a small bowl of fried rice!! Best experience was eating a thai green curry in a back street restaurant in Bangkok, yum!

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Kerry

3 August 2009, 9:19AM
Kerry

I can't rave about Alvor in the Algarve, Portugal, enough. The seafood is incredible - HUGE prawns and an amazing selection of fish, all cooked simply to enhance the flavour. Lindos in Rhodes, Greece, was another food haven with delicious dishes served on rooftop restaurants. My holidays definitely centre around quiet resorts with great food these days. Any other resort suggestions?

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Emily

3 August 2009, 9:55AM
Emily

Hi Kerry, love the sound of that. Fresh seafood definitely takes some beating. I'd recommend Alghero in Sardinia. You can fly there quite cheaply and it's not too touristy. Fantastic ice creams and spaghetti with lobster...mmm! Rick Stein's latest series is making me want to travel to the Far East and try all the street food. So many places to go and foods to try!

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CloClo

5 August 2009, 5:30PM
CloClo

Just got back from Turkey - they had the most incredible fish, stuffed leaves, and amazing kebabs!

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poppysuze

6 August 2009, 7:36AM
poppysuze

To me the best is walking through the Tuileries in Paris on a beautiful sunny day eating french bread/fromage baton, absolutely delicious. . .

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pamarula

7 August 2009, 1:00PM
pamarula

On one self-catering holiday in Italy the owners of our holiday home ran a restaurant club. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights members of the club (local Italians) would gather for fantastic meals using local produce. We were invited to join the meals and experienced some wonderful food.

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Sarah

10 August 2009, 2:39PM
Sarah

When I look at the Picture it looks horrible But the work you put into it is Great. Well done.

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BMortell

12 August 2009, 10:00PM
BMortell

Hola from Gibraltar - now there is a serious food disaster here. The main problem is that Morrisons (the only large supermarket in Gib) flys almost everything in from the UK! My green beans flew from Kenya over Gib, off to the UK, to get back on a plane to get to Gib again. Can't believe I bought them. And its actually hard to get local fish!! WE are on a skinny little peninsula surrounded by water.

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