Have a butchers

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Posted at 12:15PM, 10 July 2009 by Rebecca Smith - Cookery writer

Every time I write a recipe based around meat, I feel the need to stress the importance of buying it from your local butcher. I wax lyrical about the superior quality, the value of provenance, the knowledge, care and skill - things that simply can't be found in the over-sanitised bleakness of a supermarket aisle.

The personal service you find in a butchers' is second to none, and the flavour of the meat will never be exceeded by a supermarket.

And yet, supermarket meat still attracts many. I realise of course that not all of us have the good fortune to live near a butcher, and even if we did, many people's pockets aren't disposed to buying the choicest cuts to feed nightly to fractious children or an indifferent spouse. Supermarkets provide good value for money with convenience and choice. This is our reasoning. But which reputable butcher wouldn't cut your meat exactly how you want it? Source something obscure for you with a little warning? Throw in a couple of titbits for no extra cost? The personal service you find in a butchers' is second to none, and the flavour of the meat will never be exceeded by a supermarket.

The other day I got talking to one of the butchers in Borough Market's incomparable Ginger Pig. We were discussing the supermarket problem and he brought up an interesting point. 'Most people are a bit scared to come in here', he said. I pondered this for a second, and a note began to ring true. Maybe people are scared to come in. Maybe they see the rows of immaculate cuts, the unidentifiable bones and frankly, terrifying offal, and decide that trimmed, pre-packed lamb rack that in no way resembles anything Bo-Peep might have lost is for them. Maybe they're worried about saying the wrong thing. Asking for some of that lovely pork fillet , which in fact turns out to be lamb neck. Maybe they don't like the faint clinical smell of blood and sawdust. Whatever it is, it's a dreadful pity.

Butchers' shops are inextricably woven into our heritage. They are invariably run by people of enormous knowledge and skill, most of whom have one of the best senses of humour you'll come across. They respect where their produce has come from, and are dedicated to making sure that no part of an animal has died in vain. They are GOOD value for money. They're usually wonderful cooks, and with just the slightest encouragement will share their knowledge with you gladly, without a hint of condescension or sarcasm. Try getting that in your local supermarket.

And wouldn't you rather take home a cheaper cut of well reared, fabulous beef, complete with a couple of bones for the dog and a recipe suggestion, than a vac-packed piece of unremarkable fillet, from the bovine equivalent of the Unknown Soldier?

Comments

Ermintrude75

10 July, 2:57PM
Ermintrude75

It can be a bit intimidating, especially if you were brought up on supermarket shopping. Not only knowing what things are, but how much (weight) to ask for (similar issue at the greengrocer). But the staff in both butcher's and grocer's shops are friendly and always seem to know what I mean. The butcher does not always have every cut of every meat but can always suggest alternatives based on what I was planning to cook. Everything tastes better than anaemic supermarket stuff, and the vast majority is locally reared as well. But the main reason I started shopping at these local independents was the massive reduction in packaging waste. Pork chops from the butcher come with one plastic film sheet and one bag, sealed with a tiny bit of tape - not a tray, film, label and absorbent pad.

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James

10 July, 3:45PM
James

Cheaper and even better than butchers though - you can go straight to the farm. You really know where you're meat is coming from then - you could have seen it in the field a few weeks before. Cheaper because they cut out the middle man, and they'll do discounts for large amounts, or less favourable cuts (like brisket). A lot of supermarket pork is vac packed and labelled ('from the EU') what does that mean? Where is it from, how old is it, and it's often frozen and defrosted when you buy it - and has no flavour because it's mass produced. If you're intimidated by choice/ amounts - butchers will be able to advise - you just have to ask, something you can't do to a supermarket shelf. Most of them have good & simple hints & recipes.

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James

10 July, 3:46PM
James

There's also lots of info here: http://www.simplybeefandlamb.co.uk/Homepage/ Amount wise - I work on 150g (5oz) meat per person off the bone or 250g on the bone. For a roast joint you always add a couple of extra portions - there's always someone with a healthy appetite.......

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Aedara

11 July, 10:17AM
Aedara

Butchers can be pretty scary if you don't really have a clue what you want or what kind of meat is good. I tend to leave my boyfriend to choose what we're going to eat meat wise because he works on the meat and fish counter in Waitrose, and I have to say despite everyone saying that supermarket people don't know about the meat he really really does know an awful lot and as its waitrose they do know where it comes from, he also offers cooking advice (e.g suggesting to someone the other day how to make a good stock with the leftover bones and meat etc) and points people in the direction of meat they might like. So its not all bad news at supermarkets but I'll confess going to tesco or somewhere like that you're probably not going to get the best service.

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Gemma

13 July, 8:46AM
Gemma

I think the fresh counters at the supermarkets offer a much better option than the packed stuff. Morrisons for example have a trained butcher and fishmonger in every store. Where I live I have a local butcher but not a fishmonger - supermarket fish is about my only choice but I do have a choice with my meat. The issue for me at the moment is cost; I am on maternity leave from work and whilst I realise that the quality from the butcher is greater I can get more from my money at a supermarket. When finances are tight I go straight to my supermarket; when I have more money available I go to my butcher.

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Becks

13 July, 11:28AM
Becks

Feel the fear and do it anyway! A good butcher will never be stuffy with you if you don't know what weight to ask for, or which cut to choose. In my experience they generally love helping people and once you get the hang of it, it's so nice being able to hand pick your meat, or watch as they cut it for you. I do agree though, that the fresh meat counters in places like Waitrose and Morrissons are also very good, but that's because they employ proper trained butchers!

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mad auntie

13 July, 1:31PM
mad auntie

I once asked a local butcher for 'beef bones for stock' and was given beef bones 'for the dog'. He'd misheard and I was too embarrassed to point it out. Not knowing if they were ok for stock, I gave them to a neighbour's dog. Now, however, I'm a bit older and wiser and frequently choose the butchers for quality - but still buy sometimes from the supermarket for midweek economy. (And I would speak up about the mistake now!)

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thisediblelife

13 July, 2:33PM
thisediblelife

Whilst I agree with what you are saying, I've recently been quite surprised by some butchers' lack of knowledge about their own industry. I asked for some onglet from one and he didn't have a clue what I was talking about. He hadn't heard of a canon of lamb either. Another very reputable organic butcher didn't know what pig's fry was (heart, liver,lungs and sweetbreads) and a third couldn't tell me what breed his pork was. Unfortunately not all butchers are like Ginger Pig.

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Laura in the Tarn

13 July, 3:25PM
Laura in the Tarn

Given the choice, I'd prefer a butcher a real butchers over a supermarket anyday - annoyingly, the convenience of a supermarket can sometimes win through... In France, the standards of butchery can vary hugely, I'm discovering - we use a great local butcher, who's a bit of a new discovery this year, but some of the butchers make a real mess of the meat and none of them hangs their beef at all, so the entrecote served in restaurants really tough and lacking in flavour. Britain has some amazingly good butchers, though - hopefully they'll keep getting the support they need to thrive.

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miniminx

16 July, 1:38PM
miniminx

does meat from a butchers definitely come from a different place to supermarket meat? surely all meat comes from the same or similar farms?? while i agree with buying from butchers to support local business, i'm not that convinced it actually tastes any different from supermarket meat. i buy my meat from the farmer's market - superb! and because i'm on a budget, i just buy less of it to cover the extra cost. not having meat every night of the week never killed anybody :)

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Donna

20 July, 2:26PM
Donna

I live in Cornwall and we have 5 butchers in the area the one I use is excellent, he also supplies the local restaurants. The other day I wanted 300g of minced pork he had none to hand but went out to the back and minced some for me, as his mincer is very large he had to mince rather a lot but was still happy to sell me my 300g. I prefer going to the butcher the quality of the meat is much better..

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Vivo

21 July, 8:51PM
Vivo

OK, you have managed to make me (mildly) guilty buying meat via the supermarket! As I work full time, I dont have the energy level to go to more than one place to do my shopping so the convenience of a high-quality supermarket is where I get everything. I will make the effort though now that you have made me think about it!

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DNA

21 July, 11:13PM
DNA

This is an interesting topic to be brought up, as about 2 weeks ago I went on my first visit to my local butcher and had been meaning to for a long time. Don't quite know what it is but something about going into a shop and asking normally well built guys for what meat you want is quite intimidating. You do get a lot for your money though at mine, 4 bits of streaky bacon at least double the size of what you get at a supermarket and about 450g of beef mince came to Â£3.40, and the meat was very nice. Problem is though, finding the time to go when working the 9 til 5 isn't easy, even for a 21 year old such as myself. Might be worth doing a big shop at a butchers when you have the chance and freeze for the future.

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Bite-size-catering

23 July, 12:02PM
Bite-size-catering

DNA, Have you thought about getting a group of work mates together and putting a large order in at the butchers and asking him to deliver it to your work place. Some butchers will have a small van and supply pubs and restaurants, possibly close to where you work. Just a thought

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MarieAlice

23 July, 6:45PM
MarieAlice

I am a frequent customer at my local village butchers. His meat and poultry are excellent and responsibly farmed. I would love to have a local fish mongers, but alas . . . the last one pulled up stakes several years ago and went elsewhere. There's something to be said about buying your meat and veg from someone who knows you by name. It's so much nicer than impersonal supermarket shopping. Perhaps I am old fashioned in thinking so, but I believe that the butcher and green grocer, along with the post office and the Saturday Farmers Market are the heartbeat and soul of village life.

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pingfoodie

24 July, 5:20PM
pingfoodie

I couldn't agree more with the proposition that a 'proper' butcher is preferable to the supermarket version. Of course the quality from butcher to butcher will vary but it is inevitable that a person whose livelihood depends on keeping his customers satisfied will try harder than some poor work-experience person who appear to staff most of the supermarkets around me. I find that there is usually more choice available in my local butchers than in any of the supermarkets (although they don't usually sell plasma TVs). It's the same with fish. I'm fortunate to live near two or three very good butchers and a similar number of fishmongers so I'm probably lucky in that respect. I always think that the displays in supermarkets look tired, a bit 'past-it'. And the fish-assistants - well they're not real fishmongers - always look full of ennui. Or possibly mercury. I freely admit that I loathe supermarkets but my views, though biased, have kept me healthy. I'm 82!

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threelittlepigspork

5 August, 7:20PM
threelittlepigspork

I don't think anyone's mentioned the excellent meat you can now order online. I can quite understand people not being able to get to a local butcher during the week when they work full time (and not having the inclination to give up time on a Saturday). There are lots of farmers now selling meat online. Many of them do the local farmers' markets aswell, so you're getting the same good quality meat.You have a great choice including rare breed or organic. The home delivery service really does take all the hassle out of midweek shopping and the necessity to buy meat at the supermarket.

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Jennie

23 August, 11:26AM
Jennie

I wholeheartedly agree that buying meat from butchers' shops far outweighs that supermarket experience. My favourite local butcher offers super quality, great advice about cuts and, a wonderful happy atmosphere, with lots of laughs and jokes!

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lili

27 October, 6:08AM
lili

How do I track <a href="http://www.mytobling.com/"><strong>Cheap Ugg Boots</strong></a>?

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