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The end of the line?

The recent press stories surrounding the film The End of the Line have left me wondering whether people are more confused than ever about what fish is 'safe' to eat! The film draws attention to the fact that our oceans and the food they produce are under very intense and constant pressure - and that awareness in itself is essential. But in my experience most people know so little about issues surrounding sustainability (often gleaned from inaccuracies in the press) and a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

The 'responsible sourcing' of fish is an extremely complex and emotive subject and it is difficult to really get to grips with all the different opinions and information. It is, however, possible to be an ethical shopper and enjoy a huge variety of fish, if armed with a few key points.

The exploitation of bluefin tuna, highlighted in the film, has been of serious concern for several years, and needs to be dealt with at government level. Rest assured that bluefin is extremely unlikely to find its way onto an unsuspecting diner's plate: it is very expensive and most goes to the sashimi and sushi trade, so if you enjoy Japanese food, you know what to ask. Bluefin is one of several species of tuna and some of the others come from well managed stocks: yellowfin can be responsibly caught using the pole method or rod and line, while skipjack - the species that usually finds its way into cans - is a fast-growing member of the group.

Giving farmed fish a 'don't touch with a barge pole' tag is unfair to the industry when there are many fish farmers who produce excellent quality fish in a sustainable way.

Another of the main issues raised in the film is concern over fish farming. It is estimated that over 45% of the fish we now eat is being farmed and this will increase as we come to rely on it more as the global population grows. Giving farmed fish a 'don't touch with a barge pole' tag is unfair to the industry when there are many fish farmers who produce excellent quality fish in a sustainable way.

Probably the most important point for us to become more ethical shoppers is to diversify the fish we eat. Top choices by many are cod, haddock, salmon and prawns. Unfortunately, when something different comes onto the market, it takes time to become noted, as consumers do like to stick to their favourites! I would encourage people to try something new and if you don't know how to cook it, ask.

The Marine Conservation Society publishes a Fish List which can be quite helpful in finding out what's good and what to avoid, but equally this type of guide can be frustrating as some fish listed are difficult to get hold of - sometimes they say to purchase only from a particular area, but the fish are rarely labelled that way.

Something else to look out for is the MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) logo on fish - you'll see it in many major retailers. However, in my experience, there are lots of fish that don't have the MSC label, but are equally ethical - rope-grown mussels, for example, are one of the most sustainable seafoods, but there is no labelling to promote them as such. Where practical, locally sourced fish is often a very good option too.

If you want to change the way you shop, ask questions about how the fish was caught and where it came from. Anyone who sells sustainable and responsibly sourced fish will be able to reassure you - if they can't, walk away and buy something else!

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