Good Food Blog
Fat
Posted at 12:10PM, 12 June 2009 by Lulu Grimes - Deputy editor, olive magazine
Butter, crackling, and dishes like the roast bone marrow and parsley salad at St John and the nice crisp bits on the edge of bacon became a guilty pleasure when olive oil became the new kid on the block. In fact animal fats were thought to be a sure road to a heart attack. But 'Fat, an appreciation of a misunderstood ingredient with recipes' by Jennifer McLagan, published earlier this year, makes a good case for the opposition. While it caused a bit of a stir on blogs and in broadsheets, with its cover of raw lamb chops coated in creamy white fat it wasn't in the running to go mainstream. Sadly people are scared of fat.
We have butter on our toast at home, I don't trim chops or steaks and I cook pork belly at least once a month.
Now this work of genius is winning major cookbook prizes and its reputation is building. All excellent news in my opinion as the main message, that animal fats are not bad for you (this theory is backed up by science in the intro), in moderation of course, is something I have always believed in. We have butter on our toast at home, I don't trim chops or steaks, I cook pork belly at least once a month and I think a good batch of crackling is as close to perfect as food gets. Admittedly I am not as skinny as a rake, but that is because moderation is something I need to work on. The recipe collection is a joy because it contains a good run of classics such as chicken Kiev, shortbread, butter chicken and duck confit, as well as newer ideas such as salted butter tart, crackling brittle and miso and orange roasted pork belly.
For me fat has all sorts of good memories attached to it: Yorkshire puds cooked in dripping, butter and jam on bread when you got home from school, a bag of chips after swimming and a decent pork pie on a picnic. And cake, cake just tastes so much better made with butter.
Are you a lard or dripping fan? What is your favourite recipe that just wouldn't be the same without fat? Or does the mere idea of a nice sizzled piece of pork fat make you shudder?
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