Underground restaurants

Good Food Blog

What is RSS?

Posted at 11:11AM, 29 May 2009 by Claire Webb - Writer

The other night I dined in a stranger's flat. There were twelve of us politely conversing around candlelit tables. Earlier, we'd sipped aperitifs in the garden, admiring a view of chained-up bikes, bins and tower blocks - welcome to the underground restaurant.

Recession might mean the nation's purse is lighter than a Michelin-starred soufflé, but there's no need to crack open the spam just yet.

If you've ever risked neck strain examining someone else's shopping trolley or salivated over next-door's dinner, the underground restaurant is for you. Recession might mean the nation's purse is lighter than a Michelin-starred soufflé, but there's no need to crack open the spam just yet. The latest culinary trend is about old-fashioned home-cooking...other people's.

The concept isn't new. American Jim Haynes has been holding open-house suppers for 30 years. He began as a means of introducing acquaintances and soon attracted crowds hungry for an unusual night out. Nowadays, 50 or 60 people attend the weekly Sunday salons and Jim takes pride in remembering every name on the guest list.

Our venue is more modest ex-council than Parisian chic: Ikea furniture, prints on the walls and lighting so mellow it's almost impossible to see the starter - onion salad with umemboshi vinagrette. A waitress serves the Japanese set menu in dinky bowls and on square, flowery plates. Our chef - the superbly named Horton Jupiter - isn't so authentic-looking. In fact, he's never even been to Japan, although adores sushi restaurants, especially when the food whizzes round on conveyor belts.

There's nothing of the conveyor belt to these dainty dishes: radish with apple dressing, Chinese cabbage and seaweed rolls, tofu dumplings, melt-in-the-mouth shiitake mushrooms, gingered cucumber pickles, miso, sticky rice and cockle-warming sake to finish. It's certainly more exciting than my usual weeknight fare.

On the way out, we congratulate our host and hand over £15. Underground restaurants aren't licensed, so guests are asked to give a "voluntary contribution". Reservations are via Facebook or email and most are bring-your-own.

Horton opens his doors once a week and holds two sittings to make it financially viable, but this is about the love of the craft rather than constructing the next Gordon Ramsay Empire. "People keep telling me they're going to start their own - they don't know what they're letting themselves in for," he grins, exhausted, at the end of the evening.

Still, it's good news for cash-strapped gastronomes. Underground restaurants: opening on a street near you.

Comments

1-20 of 24 comments

James

29 May 2009, 4:20PM
James

I was just telling someone about the underground restaurant phenomenon yesterday. Her friend has a house with a dining room overlooking the river, and is thinking of doing just this - but was wondering if it was a good idea. There's probably never been a better time.

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
Nicola

30 May 2009, 6:24PM
Nicola

I think they sound really interesting and would love to try one...although I'd probably worry that it would be a bit strange and awkward! One thing though...how do you find one? Is it word of mouth, or is there a website somewhere to find them? I'm guessing they are mostly in London and thus no good for me!

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
alex-

1 June 2009, 6:42PM
alex-

I love the idea! Thank you for the info. I never heard about this before and must admit I would love to try. I don't think this would be awkward, on the contrary, i'm sure it's much more casual than a restaurant, and much funnier. But, do you know if, by any chance, there are any underground restaurant around Portsmouth ;)

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
janey

1 June 2009, 7:49PM
janey

What a novel idea, perfect for those with jaded palates and dwindling disposable cash for a night out with a difference. Does the writer know of any underground restaurants North of Watford Gap?

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
TerryBlack

2 June 2009, 1:24PM
TerryBlack

But isn't that the problem? It's a very London thing and is therefore only accessible for a very small number of people, just like so many cultural goings on covered in the media. Please feature something exciting and innovative like this that everyone can enjoy! Anyone got any ideas?

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
horton jupiter

2 June 2009, 9:25PM
horton jupiter

hello everyone! I'm so chuffed i've made it onto the BBC. My restaurant is doing better than my pop group, dammit! To all of you thinking of starting up a home restaurant of your own - do it do it do it do it. It's really simple and fun and all you have to fear is taking control of your own life. To those of you who haven't got a home restaurant near you (and even if you live in London you might not - so far only 5 or 6 others have started up in London since mine did in Mid January), I am getting emails every other day from people all over the country that are thinking of jumping into the water, but if it hasn't happened yet why not start your own? Particularly to TerryBlack - sorry mister, but the whole point is not exclusivity for them posh folk in "That London", the whole point is that it is something that everyone could enjoy, given an imagination and a front room. You could start one yourself tomorrow. There's an exciting and innovative idea. I Double Dare You.

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
msmarmitelover

3 June 2009, 12:50PM
msmarmitelover

The Underground Restaurant in Kilburn...the place to book: http://www.wegottickets.com/location/2522 The blog....http://marmitelover.blogspot.com/

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
Kate

3 June 2009, 2:56PM
Kate

It sounds appealing,but.. sorry to be a killjoy ,what about health and safety?These establishments won't be subjected to environmental health checks are prospective gastronomes comfortable with this?

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
Auntyfanty

3 June 2009, 6:44PM
Auntyfanty

Are these not called paladares? In Newcastle recently as part of the Eat Festival a number were held around the region - I didn't go to one, sorely wanted to however. I gather they were really well recieved ... see this article http://www.journallive.co.uk/north-east-taste/news-and-features/2009/05/01/cuban-food-revolution-61634-23513931

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
Andy Lynes

4 June 2009, 11:20AM
Andy Lynes

Will be cooking at msmarmitelover's on 20 June. V. excited, and a little bit nervous.

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
tania

5 June 2009, 1:11PM
tania

what a great idea, i hate paying for restaurant food that is badly cooked and totally over-priced, and quite often the decor is unimaginative too. good food , good company, with fellow foodies would be a real treat, just one question though, how do you find them?

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
horton jupiter

7 June 2009, 2:28PM
horton jupiter

Dear Kate...sorry to be a killjoy....you must be. Do you worry about health and safety when you invite your friends around for dinner? Or cross the street? Or fall in love? My kitchen is clean, my hands are washed regularly, my food is vegetarian. The risks from stress brought about by people refusing to simply sit back and enjoy their beautiful lives without the fingers of the secret policeman inside their heads constantly kicking their chairs in class are far greater. That was a crap overlong sentence, but you know what i'm talking about. It's time to take back our lives. They belong to US. Not the council.

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
Frantic Flapjack

7 June 2009, 4:05PM
Frantic Flapjack

Hear hear Horton. I'm with you all the way. Keep on cooking x

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
foodie

8 June 2009, 5:59PM
foodie

Are you interested in starting a restaurant in your own home? A brand new TV show is looking for people to take part in an exciting new programme about starting your own home restaurant. If you live in or around the Norfolk area we would be particularly interested in hearing from you.

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
Nicola

9 June 2009, 2:08PM
Nicola

I have no doubt that the level of cleanliness and hygiene in a home kitchen would be higher than that in some so called restaurants. Just because restaurants are subject to health and safety regulations, certainly does not mean that they are always spotless and safe...as anyone who has ever worked in an understaffed/underresourced restaurant will know...but the customers will not!

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
MartinM

10 June 2009, 6:41PM
MartinM

As a retired catering organisation CE, I have to agree with Kate (3 June) on the subject of health and safety. Such checks have had to be introduced because of the poor standards found in some commercial kitchens. Of course Horton (7 June) would take the line he has, he runs a restaraunt. He may well be operating to high standards but we only have his judgement to go on. He may be good ..... but he may not be. Having once been given a severe dose of food poisoning after a private dinner party, I can only say buyer, and that us what you are doing despite the glamourous underground titile, beware.

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
msmarmitelover

10 June 2009, 11:27PM
msmarmitelover

I have a food hygiene certificate. I've cheffed in lots of cafes and restaurants that have worse hygiene standards than my kitchen. The one thing that every underground restauranteur will be very conscious of is cleanliness and hygiene. What kind of people do you think go into this? People with a true love of food. Would they want to endanger people? Of course not. They will be trying even harder than a regular restaurant to make sure food is safe, clean and fresh. Faith and trust are hallmarks of this 'movement'. Trusting that strangers coming to your house will treat you, your food and your hospitality with respect. They in return have faith in you. The great thing about underground restaurants is that you can see the kitchen, it is not hidden. You walk past Horton's kitchen, you can see for yourself. You can come in my kitchen at any point (preferably after the main course though). Can you do that in a 'normal' restaurant? No.

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
BBCFoodathome

11 June 2009, 5:26PM
BBCFoodathome

The BBC are interested in hearing from anybody who would like to try to run their own restaurant from their home. Have you and your partner always wanted to start your own restaurant but never wanted to take the gamble?Would your cooking â��wowâ�� a room full of people? Have you ever thought about setting up a restaurant in your home? If so the BBC want to hear from you. Weâ��re looking for couples to take part in a brand new series. For more information email Michelle with your contact details and tell us why youâ��re the perfect couple for the job. Michelle.Darling@zigzag.uk.com 07804663786

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
Heidi

20 June 2009, 2:51PM
Heidi

I have advanced food hygiene and HACCP qualifications so I'm torn. Part of me is excited by the prospect of something new and different, the other part knows rationally that for every responsible person running a 'restaurant' like this, there will be others who out of ignorance will make people ill. For me though, I would never go to a strangers house for personal safety reasons rather than food safety and that's what concerns me more. I wouldn't accept the offer of dinner in a strangers house if I met someone in the street, I don't see how it's any different.

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:
fredella

20 June 2009, 6:26PM
fredella

I have worked in the industry for 25 years and I would love to turn my spare room into a select diners club. I would want to know the clients personally before they came to my flat though. I find the idea very interesting and would love to go and experience it first. How do you find out about these places?

Flag as inappropriate

Please let us know your name and the reason you find the above comment inappropriate.

Your name: Reason:

Your binder

Here are three other great reasons to sign up:

You get an online binder, where you can store all your favourite recipes and create menus.
You can add your own recipes to this site for others to try; plus, rate and make comments on recipes, and share your views on our blog.
You can sign up for our weekly newsletter (sent out on Wednesdays) - it's packed with recipes, special offers and competitions.

Search Good Food

Keywords

Refine your recipe search

Search filter options

BBC Good Food

Primary Navigation

Good Food Blog