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Posted at 12:02PM, 24 April 2009 by Stuart Ovenden - Deputy art editor, Good Food magazine

I was ill-inclined to rekindle the ashes of what had been a brief and tempestuous relationship with the globe artichoke. Last year's debacle - an event that quickly imploded into a spectacle of profanity and vegetable abuse, was blighted from the outset and resulted in an oversized thistle making a prompt, window-facilitated exit from my life.

The inner layers are hotter than the surface of the sun

Simple start this time: cut the stalk off, trim the top and boil for 35-45 minutes. After draining and resting the artichoke on a board I begin to peel off the outer scales - they fall away easily, my fingertips quickly pointing out that the inner layers remain hotter than the surface of the sun. A generous slab of butter over the steaming leaves prompts an unusual development - scraping the smooth, pulpy inside of a scale into the mouth with your teeth feels odd yet strangely satisfying. Still, not one to order on a first date. A recipe I've found in an old book enthuses the merits of chewing on the tough outer scales too, an opinion that upon reflection seems misguided. They're horrid. Spooning out the furry choke is the final step en route to the heart.

"Is that it?", remarks a visibly disgruntled girlfriend, eyeing the heart suspiciously while offering a cursory glance at the heap of debris on the board. Nonplussed, I quarter the heart before adding a sprinkle of salt and few grinds of black pepper - it's a brief but tasty affair.

Having spent the best part of an hour unravelling its babushka doll exterior, I'll concede that the resultant volume of 'choke heart matter appears less than impressive. In its uncooked form an artichoke has a fantastic sculptural beauty; the aesthetic transition is the equivalent of arriving at the Albert Hall to find Dick Van Dyke on stage performing 'The Planets' solo on a nose flute. No actually, I'd pay good money to see that. Maybe it is worth the effort.

Comments

StowmarKate

24 April, 3:25PM
StowmarKate

Sorry - disagree! I love artichokes (and the outer leaves). My mom makes a vinaigrette with ketchup (honestly) and raw red onion, and it's perfect for dipping. My husband is with you guys, though - he thinks it's way too much faff. More for me!

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James

24 April, 3:32PM
James

There is a quick cheats way if you just want the heart. Put it on it's side and trim round the outer leaves all in one go, then you scoop out the middle with a spoon, then cook it (roasted is nice). Quick & easy. Or par-boil them in acidulated (water with lemon stops them going grey) water. Nice warm with jersey royals and vinaigrette. Or you can brown them in a little olive oil or butter if you want.

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JANET

24 April, 3:34PM
JANET

I love them, with classic vinaigrette or bagna cauda. I cook mine wrapped tightly in clingfilm in the microwave, a la Sophie Grigson.

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Elaine

24 April, 8:59PM
Elaine

I love artichokes, but they're right up there with other 'are-they-worth-the-effort' veg. A lot of prep for a buried treasure, but must try James's tip. Double-podding broad beans is also a faff, but they're in season for such a short time that I think it's just about worth it

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www.Foodswild.com

28 April, 7:36PM
www.Foodswild.com

i know what you mean about are they worth the effort, but one can take that to a horrible extreme(ready choppes veg, and on - shudder-) for me the effort is always worth it just not always!! haha. The other extreme i may mention .. has anyone out there tried thistle hearts? They are very similar in taste and are v small, but again for me really worth the effort! Alice http://www.foodswild.com

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VivP

7 May, 9:22AM
VivP

I cooked them for my kids and my 4 step kids when we were in Provence and they are all addicted. They are a very sociable thing to eat with all the family and great fun for kids to get involved with their food. :)

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Hel - Brit in Beijing

10 May, 3:40PM
Hel - Brit in Beijing

They are 100% worth the effort. Throw in half a lemon when cooking. Cook for 35 - 45 mins then dunk leaf ends in lemon butter... yummmmm....

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