How to handle a sommelier, or not

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Posted at 12:55PM, 02 January 2009 by Lulu Grimes - Deputy editor, olive magazine

I'd never met a mean sommelier before. Out last week, as usual we looked at the wine list and then ask the sommelier for advice. A nice looking bottle of light red arrived. Friend 1 who writes about food and knows about wine thought it "possibly corked?" "No" said the sommelier, "you just don't know the wine; it will be fine". She deferred. He left.

Friend 2 (also a food writer), too busy chatting to hear this exchange took a sip, "corked" she said. Friend 3 (yes a food writer too) agreed that there was something wrong. The sommelier was summoned. He swept the bottle away without a word and before we had a chance to ask for another of the same just to check presented a new one. "Perfect" said friend 1. "Of course" he replied, and then under his breath "plastic cork". I caught his eye, his expression backed up his words. He was thinking that we were four stupid women. Too stupid to know what corked actually meant, and probably too stupid to know that wine with a plastic cork couldn't be, I'd be willing to bet that he'd wanted us to question the new wine just so he could put us in our place. It didn't ruin the evening but it could have.

Dealing with a sommelier can be intimidating at the best of times, everybody has a tale to tell about being up-sold on the wine they've chosen, or embarrassed in front of their friends by an extortionate recommendation or just made to look plain stupid. But there are plenty who are brilliant at putting you at ease (those at Gordon Ramsay at Claridges, Trinity and Arbutus get my vote) and who don't pass judgement if you want something cheap or just don't know what you want.

What's the worst thing a sommelier has ever said to you? Do you have any top tips for getting the most out of your sommelier? Where would you go again because you know you can order wine without being afraid?

Comments

AdrianB

2 January 2009, 4:56PM
AdrianB

I was in a very expensive fish restaurant in Stockholm with a client who was paying and was trying to impress. The client asked for the sommelier and he asked us what we were eating. Turbot and cod were our replies. "Grilled or steamed?," asked the sommelier. Well, "Grilled actually," we replied. So after much thought .... with a flourish befitting a master magician he produced a bottle of Pouilly-FumÃ©. Well, I wasn't too impressed. That was about as revolutionary as recommending a cold Belgian Ale with moules et frites isn't it?

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