Chain gang

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Posted at 12:02PM, 18 November 2008 by Claire Webb - Writer

Gordon Ramsay is the cream of the crop. Of course, he's long outshone (or should that be out-bellowed?) his fellow celebrity chefs. But Gordon's also been voted Master of Expansion: Ramsay Holdings is the most admired chain in the UK, according to a poll of industry executives and independent restaurant managers. That other centre of gastronomic excellence - McDonalds - comes in at number three.

Here are their much-prized Michelin stars crushed, sprinkled on conveyor belts and served to the masses

Foodies will no doubt throw up their napkins in disgust. Here are their much-prized Michelin stars crushed, sprinkled on conveyor belts and served to the masses. There couldn't be a better time to crawl out from behind my plastic menu.

Yes, in an ideal world, we would all dine at restaurants as unique and lovingly managed as our potbellies, where vegetables are grown out the back and the chef shoots the meat at dawn. Yet that doesn't always happen. And you know what? Chain restaurants can be finger-licking good (okay, not that one).

Pizza Express, for example, introduced us to such exotica as porcini mushrooms, rocket and grana padano. It's a world away from the all-you-can-eat buffets and Pepsi refills of Pizza Hut. And, for those in search of real, foot-tapping sophistication, some 'Express outlets moonlight as jazz cafés.

Nor are all high street restaurants neon-lit carbon copies of each other. Nando's designs each branch to fit in with its surroundings. When one opened recently in Stoke Newington, North-East London, there were protests from residents who, tellingly, hadn't stirred at the arrival of the more bourgeois Fresh & Wild (which is part of the US supermarket giant Whole Foods). Peer beyond the demure black facade of that Nando's today, and you'll see plenty of contented customers.

Ethical fare is also increasingly available from the franchised kitchen. Loch Fyne ticks the eco-boxes, with its sustainable fish-buying policy. And did you know Maccy D's has twice been awarded the Good Egg Award from Compassion in World Farming, for its use of free-range eggs in its UK restaurants?

If the future lies in seasonal, ethically-sourced "pukka tukka", then one bloke is sure to clean up. That's right: Ramsay better watch out, because Jamie Oliver is getting in on the act with Jamie's Italian. There's one in Bath, another in Oxford, with a third planned for Kingston and, queues aside, reports are positive. We may have to swallow Oliver's chummy menu descriptions of "humble green salad" alongside our organic Shetland salmon, but it's a small price to pay.

I can't be the only one salivating over plastic menus. Who would you vote for?

Comments

James

18 November 2008, 10:16PM
James

It's just the word chain that puts me off. Having moved from London back to the countryside, as you do, it's refreshing to find so many independants again - where you can guarantee the owner/ chef is likely if not to be there at that time, to be in control. That aside, Loch Fyne is the only chain I've been to recently, and it was seriously good, and Petit Blanc (now Brasserie) is good as well - but they're actually the same chain in fact. The reason Mr. Ramsey is so successful is each restaurant is run on an independant basis.

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MG

21 November 2008, 12:43PM
MG

It's the loss of excitement, even of risk, that I miss when going to a chain. You know exactly what you are going to get before you step in the door. It seems to take the magic out of a dinner - trying new things and having a unique experience. That said, if that experience is bad perhaps the safety of the chains would swiftly become a lot more appealing.

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janey

21 November 2008, 2:23PM
janey

There is nothing to beat a great independent restaurant, but so often they are pricey and disappointing, at least you are reasonably assured of the quality and cost of the meal with a chain, despite that plastic menu...

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janey

23 November 2008, 5:10PM
janey

went to Nandos this afternoon ,great meal, good price friendly staff. there is a lot to be said for chains

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abbey

24 November 2008, 4:27PM
abbey

Overall chains are good, one knows the standard of the fair and price, this can be useful in a strange city when one does not know where a good independent restaurant can be. There main problem is maintaining a good standard over a period of time.

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