Good Food Blog
Supersize my restaurant meal
Posted at 2:01PM, 21 August 2008 by Adrian Bridgwater - Journalist
Morgan Spurlock's seminal documentary Supersize Me may not have had the long-term impact he might have hoped for, as Americans and Europeans alike still continue to flock to junk food emporia in search of sodium, sauce and saturated fat.
What I'm noticing on my fairly regular trips across the pond to the US is that the supersize concept seems to have migrated to the restaurant scene, but in a more subtle way than you might imagine. What the Americans do, we tend to eventually emulate in many cases - so perhaps this is an area to watch out for?
OK, everyone knows that despite some efforts to stem the tide, American restaurant portions can be huge. No surprise there.
But what I see happening at eateries across the US is a glut of free (or at least unlimited) appetisers in the form of bread or crackers with cheese, soup or dressing-drenched salad. Let's not forget that here in the UK we still pay for bread in Café Rouge, as we've failed to adopt the continental 'basket always on the table' approach.
Of course, you have to move out of the Café Rouge zone and move within the Café Royal cognoscenti if you want free mini ciabattas these days, don't you know?
Cracker Barrel, the restaurant chain, has unlimited grits, if you want a bottomless bowl of porridge-like oatmeal as your starter
So what's the problem with free bread and crackers?, you may ask. Well, people seem content to load up on these fillers - Cracker Barrel, the restaurant chain, has unlimited grits, if you want a bottomless bowl of porridge-like oatmeal as your starter. Then the diner's main orders arrive and, by and large, they can't finish them.
These days it's not even called a doggy bag (it's bigger than that) - it's a "box" and it's generally big enough to accommodate a whole fresh takeaway dinner in its own right. Customers can be seen filing out of franchised chains like Red Lobster, Ruby Tuesday or Applebee's with a steaming pack of, well, stuff they couldn't finish.
So what's my beef? Well, these customers then plod out with the warm feeling that they've had a great meal and still have the leftovers for another. But when they are tucking into their microwave morsels the next day, do they stop and think, "Hey, I'm eating reheated food at home that I've paid expensive restaurant prices as well as gratuity and tax on"?
No they do not. They think, "Great - a second meal". But they're paying top dollar for leftovers. It's false economics. If super size consumerism is encroaching on the restaurant space in this way, everyone seems happy about it.
Will we follow suit in the UK? Perhaps our British stiff upper lip that makes us just so embarrassed to ask for a doggy bag in the first place will make us think twice before we order the triple salad combo with the breadstick mountain and the quesadilla burger to follow.
For Spurlock's sake, let's hope so.


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