Forgotten fruits

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Posted at 11:15AM, 19 August 2008 by Carol Wilson - Food writer

Apples are the most popular of our native fruits which we've enjoyed in Britain since antiquity. Chaucer mentioned roast apples cooked with sugar candy and galingale (a fragrant spice similar to ginger), while baked stuffed apples, apple pies and puddings are among the great triumphs of British cooking; not forgetting, of course, deliciously sweet and sticky toffee apples, loved by generations of children.

You'd never guess that we have such a great heritage by looking at the apple varieties sold by most supermarkets

Britain has around two thousand varieties of flavoursome apples, many of which date back hundreds of years; but you'd never guess that we have such a great heritage by looking at the apple varieties sold by most supermarkets. Their buyers choose fruit for its long shelf life; apples must be blemish-free and picture-perfect in shape and size, which, with traditional varieties, is impossible to achieve. That's why only about 30 varieties are grown commercially and, sadly, why many of Britain's old orchards, particularly in traditional apple-growing areas such as Kent, Somerset and Worcestershire, have long since disappeared.

Supermarkets sell most of the nation's apples and although you'll probably find Bramley, Cox and perhaps Egremont Russet, the market is dominated by imports, from New Zealand, France, Chile, China and Argentina, for instance.

It would be a disaster if our traditional apples survived only as a niche product. Fortunately a growing network of conservation groups, specialist nurseries and conservation-minded growers around the country, (including HRH Prince Charles, who has purchased 1,000 rare apple varieties to plant at Duchy Home Farm in Gloucestershire) are set on preserving old-fashioned varieties such as St Edmund's Pippin, Maid of Kent, Kidd's Orange, Winter Pearmain, (mentioned by John Gerard in his famous Herball of 1597) Ashmead's Kernel (first grown in 1700) and the delightfully named Sheep's Nose, Sops in Wine, Cornish Honey Pin and Bascombe Mystery.

You're not likely to find any of these in your local supermarket as they're not available in large quantities. But wouldn't we all prefer an apple worth eating, that's crunchy, juicy and full of flavour? Apples with an astonishing diversity of textures, colours and flavours? Pine Apple Russet, for example, tastes just like pineapple, while Devonshire Quarrenden has a distinct strawberry flavour. Brogdale Horticultural Trust in Kent houses the Apple Collection, believed to be the most comprehensive authenticated collection of varieties in the world.

I've found that farmers' markets and fruit farms are the best sources of old-fashioned varieties. Don't forget to store them carefully by wrapping loosely in newspaper and keeping in a dry airy place, such as a shed or garage.

Have you come across any rare apple varieties?

Comments

Zuzicka28

20 August 2008, 9:20AM
Zuzicka28

This sounds wonderful! I am for a English grown varieties to be sold in shops as i believe that one should eat what is grown in the coutry where he lives. What good is an apple travelling thousands of miles from across the world, how much vitamins can it contain a nd most importantly how old is it??? I heard that a lot of theses apples can be moths old before they get to the customer-how horrible! I would love fresh british apples!!! I come from Slovakia where i was always used to eat fresh a nd home grown stuff and i know it is all changing as well and we get supermarket apples which look shiny but have no flavour. I have to admit i am very picky in choosing my fruit and found that best tasting fruit as far as supermarket goes is from M&S. It is a bit pricey but it's worth it. I find fruit here quite tastless and it's often not ripe and it does not ripen at home. Therefore i would very much welcome if there was more fruit and veggies grown in England.Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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James

20 August 2008, 11:29AM
James

No rare varieties to share... yet, but it has inspired me to go up to Hayles Fruit Farm to find some. Their single variety juices are so good.

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the Ships Cook

20 August 2008, 6:44PM
the Ships Cook

A local gardener dropped a bag of apples round to me he was given yesterday. The smell and freshness was amazing! The sad thing is a person living down my road has a lovely apple tree on their front garden, but only to leave the apples rotting unpicked... Perhaps there should be quota's on imported products, or would that simply push prices up out of season?

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robert

22 August 2008, 11:04AM
robert

I had no idea there were so many different apples. I'll have a scout around the farmers market this weekend. Does anyone know if there are any that are unique to Scotland?

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Val Pendleton

22 August 2008, 6:41PM
Val Pendleton

All apple lovers should visit Sulgrave Manor near Banbury on 11th or 12th October for their fabulous Apple Days. Over 350 different varieties of apple there. I used to live near a pub called the Wyken Pippin in Coventry & didn't know it was named after an actual apple until I went to Sulgrave last year. A great day out. www.sulgravemanor.org.uk

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Haddock in the Kitchen

25 August 2008, 8:16AM
Haddock in the Kitchen

My home in France is surrounded by apple orchards. Both my husband and I were shocked the other day to see the workers on site "kitting up" in some serious protection clothing with masks. They were about to do some pesticide spraying, and one can only begin to imagine what toxic delights were about to be sprayed onto the crop. We have a friend here who is a farmer, and he always peels his apples before eating them. His rationale is simple: "I know what is sprayed on them" Certainly some serious (if not unpleasant) food for thought. Footnote: No decent (sprayed or not) cooking varieties over here - sadly.

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Boomer1ou

12 June, 3:54PM
Boomer1ou

I was on an old freinds farm helping with apple harvest when I came across a few large apples that looked like Johnathans on steroids wich were green and red and approximately 6 inches in diameter and weighed about 2 pounds each growing at the bases of odd trees here and there, my freind explained that they were the original variety apon which the new Delicious variety had been grafted and in days gone by were a cooking variety wich he knew as Prince Alfred, they were splendid eating, a little tart but otherwise very tasty and by far, too much for one person with a normal appetite.

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