The scoop on ice cream

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Posted at 10:53AM, 06 August 2008 by Carol Wilson - food writer

As the weather hots up, so do sales of ice cream. What could be more cooling and refreshing than lusciously creamy ice cream, scooped into a crisp cone, sandwiched between wafers or spooned into a bowl with summer fruits for a quick and easy dessert?

But... would you be happy eating frozen whipped vegetable fat pumped up with air and artificially flavoured and coloured? Of course not, but the depressing fact is that big brand ice creams in the UK are often made with cheap vegetable fats, such as palm and soya oils and emulsifiers; just as disheartening is that manufacturers can choose from thousands of flavourings which mimic the flavours and aromas of real ingredients.

Ice cream has certainly come a long way since a confection of fresh cream, sugar and puréed fresh fruits such as peaches or strawberries first appeared in Britain in the 17th century. Much ice cream in the UK today wouldn't be classified as real ice cream in the rest of Europe, as about 80% of British ice cream contains no milk fat.

To Italians, ice cream is much more than a treat - it's a way of life

The Italians were the first Europeans to make ice cream and, in stark contrast to many British ice creams, their gelati come in a whole range of intense flavours and diverse textures - some rich and creamy, others lighter, flavoured with the seductive aroma of real vanilla, chocolate, fruit, coffee or nuts. To Italians, ice cream is much more than a treat - it's a way of life. Every town and village has at least one gelateria, where young people meet up after school, courting couples linger over a dish of their favourite ice cream and families enjoy sensational ice cream sundaes smothered in sweet sauce and a generous topping of nuts.

But the tide is slowly turning here in the UK, with sales of real dairy ice cream increasing as we become more aware and discerning about what we eat. All the fat used in dairy ice cream must be dairy fat, milk or cream - although this can also include milk powder. But do read the labels - I recently bought some organic ice cream which contains stabilisers guar gum, xanthan gum and locust bean gum. Artisinal ice cream made from just milk, cream and sometimes eggs, flavoured naturally and completely free of stabilisers and additives, will have a much better flavour and texture. It's true - premium quality ice cream does cost more - but it tastes sooooo much better, I think it's well worth the extra expense.

Comments

chickaarn

6 August, 12:32PM
chickaarn

I really like making my own and bought a small magimix ice cream maker with a bowl that goes in the freezer. Its brilliant and I have wonderfully smooth vanilla ice cream as a treat at the weekend. I rarely by shop bought ice cream but there is an italian ice cream factory about 2 hours from my house. Its run by a small italian family so I know its genuine because you can see them all working. I go once a year and wrap the 2 litre tubs i buy in huge paper sugar sacks to stop them melting. delicious.

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kipperelli

8 August, 12:59PM
kipperelli

I've just come back from the supermarket with a tub of cream instead of the tub of ice cream i went for. All had lists of ingredients that as you quite rightly say shouldn't be there. So i've dug out the ice ream machine, it's in the freezer and I'm going to make Angela Nielsen's ultimate vanilla ice cream

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smitty

8 August, 1:45PM
smitty

I assumed that organic ice cream would be just cream, etc. but I read the ingredients on the carton in my freezer and found other strange ingredients listed. I don't have an ice cream machine but am going to have a go at making my own ice cream. Does anyone have a simple recipe?

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carolann

8 August, 3:23PM
carolann

An ice cream machine churns the mixture and makes it smoother but its not essential! Try this recipe for DOUBLE CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM This ice cream needs no beating during freezing, which makes it very quick to make. Use a chocolate with a high percentage of cocoa solids (at least 60%) for the best flavour. 225g plain chocolate, chopped finely 1 small tin (approx.175g) condensed milk Â½ teaspoon vanilla extract 300ml double or whipping cream Place half the chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl with the condensed milk and place the bowl over a pan of simmering (not boiling) water until the chocolate has melted. Remove from the heat and add the vanilla extract. Allow to become completely cold. Whisk the cream until thick, but not stiff, then fold into the chocolate mixture with the rest of the chopped chocolate. Pour into a freezer proof container, cover and freeze until firm. Transfer the ice cream to the 'fridge 20-30 minutes before serving.

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Paul

9 August, 1:56AM
Paul

Interesting article.

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