Good Food Blog

Great British jelly

Posted at , 24 July 2008 by Jenni Muir - Food writer

Jelly is, apparently, back in fashion. Did it ever go out? M&S have always seemed to have jelly pots on the shelves. It was even one of the desserts allowed when people rediscovered the Atkins diet a few years back. But jelly is now also a favourite in trendy restaurants, where it sits neatly on modern British and gastropub menus, and lends itself to experimentation from molecular gastronomes.

It's not so stylish that we're likely to use jelly as table centrepieces, as the Victorians did, anytime soon. But one company has launched a bespoke jelly mould manufacturing service this month (prices start at £300), and its work is used as focal points, to say the least. A jelly of St Paul's Cathedral. An airport with individual planes. London's Millennium Bridge. (I love the idea that Lord Foster would be sitting in his office saying, 'Humph. Call my bridge wobbly? I'll show you a wobbly bridge.') Heston Blumenthal is working with them on his next series, too.

Open quotationjellies should wobble like a fat girl's bottomClose quotation

When I was at cookery school, we were told by our otherwise very proper headmistress that jellies should wobble like a fat girl's bottom, and to this day I push the plate back and forth a bit when anything gelled arrives at the table. The Victorians liked the way their jelly centrepieces wobbled whenever someone knocked against the table during dinner parties.

But for me the main appeal is that jellies are so light and refreshing, they round off a meal neatly. And they can be as simple or as complex as you want, made with ready-prepared juices and smoothies, cordials or wine, or from scratch with fresh fruit.

Earlier this year I had a load of Sicilian blood oranges that needed using and eventually settled on a jellied terrine of the sliced fruit, layered with flecks of fresh mint and set with blood orange juice. Served very cold, it was hard to believe it was low calorie. Another favourite jelly combination of mine is pink grapefruit and basil. If I want to make a quick one for red berries, I prefer pomegranate juice to cranberry. What's your favourite?

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Comments

  • 25 July 2008, 1:09PM

    O'Brien

    Open QuoteMy dad would always make me Orange jelly when I was ill, it is still my favorite to this day. I have a few receipes for Adult jellies containing good quantities of Alcohol which i will be trying out this summer, the elderberry and sparkling wine one sticks out at the moment.

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  • 28 July 2008, 4:39PM

    kipperelli

    Open QuoteLime Jelly (not rubbery) and carnation evaporated milk - a taste of summer school holidays

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  • 1 August 2008, 8:43PM

    Italiana

    Open QuoteI remember mum used to make individual strawberry jellies with a dolop of 'dream topping'.....lovely!!!

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