Good Food Blog

A taste of Britain

Posted at , 21 July 2008 by Carol Wilson - food writer

In the past, we've been careless about our unique regional foods and their heritage; consequently items such as Cornish Pasties can be made anywhere in the UK and Cheddar cheese can be made in Canada or Australia, with no consideration for the history and traditions behind them or the local ingredients and time-honoured skills involved.

Open quotationWe lag sadly behind the rest of Europe, especially France, Spain and Italy, who are fiercely protective of their regional foodsClose quotation

We lag sadly behind the rest of Europe, especially France, Spain and Italy, who are fiercely protective of their regional foods and wouldn't hesitate to take legal action if their products were imitated. When you buy Roquefort, Cabrales cheese,Parmigiano Reggiano, Amalfi lemons and Parma ham, for instance, you know exactly where they're from.

A European initiative to stop locally produced foods being copied by non-local brands was introduced in 1993. Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) applies to the integrity and reputation of foods with an identified geographical origin and Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) relates to products which are produced, processed and prepared within a particular geographical area, with features and characteristics which must be due to that geographical area. Registered foods and drinks have legal protection against imitation throughout the EU.

The good news is that many UK food producers are now applying for PDO and PGI status for their products. An example is The Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Association, a small group of authentic pork pie makers, who after a ten-year campaign have gained PGI status for genuine Melton Mowbray pork pies. This will put an end to an increasing number of producers labelling generic products as 'Melton Mowbray' and charging top price. The unique pies can now be made only in a traditional manner, to an age-old recipe in the vicinity of the Leicestershire town of Melton Mowbray. I noticed in my local butchers recently that pies previously labelled 'Melton Mowbray' are now called 'Melton Mowbray style'.

Currently there are about 34 British foods that enjoy protected geographical status including Stilton cheese, Cornish clotted cream and Whitstable oysters. A number of other food producers are currently in the process of applying for a PGI or PDO, for foods such as Craster kippers, Cornish Pasties and Lakeland Herdwick lamb. It's a step in the right direction, but we still have a long way to go - France and Italy alone have hundreds of registered products.

The protected status (easily recognisable by the blue and gold rosette on the packaging) benefits both producers and consumers; it establishes the reputation of these exceptional foods and prevents their imitation elsewhere, not only in the UK, but also abroad. As consumers, we can be sure that we're buying an authentic product and know where it was made.

Which foods do you think should be given PGI or PDO status?

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Comments

  • 22 July, 8:12AM

    Jenni

    Open QuoteBeremeal. It would be tragic if it were allowed to die out yet most British people have never heard of it so demand is pretty niche. I can't help wondering if the fact that it's a flour puts it at a disadvantage with people who campaign to 'save' food products. It's not as headline-grabbing as, say, cheeses everyone has heard of, or pork pies. But really that makes it all the more important to give it due attention.

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  • 22 July, 2:31PM

    carolann

    Open QuoteI quite agree Jenni. I tried beremeal bannocks when I went to Orkney and brought some beremeal back with me. The cream coloured meal has a distinctive flavour that‘s slightly earthy but not unpleasant. It makes delicious bread and pancakes. It has a shelf life of six months but it does freeze successfully. The Barony Mills in Orkney still mills beremeal the traditional way. Its used a lot in Orkney but not many people outside the islands have heard of it, which is a pity.

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  • 23 July, 3:21PM

    Chris Pakett

    Open QuoteEccles Cakes, Chorley Cakes, also Scotch Pies made only in Scotland with mutton. There is Laverbread from Wales. But maybe only the Welsh would eat this!

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  • 24 July, 3:17PM

    smitty

    Open QuoteCumberland sausage, Dundee Cake, Yorkshire Curd Tart. Manx Kippers, York ham, Kendal Mint Cake

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  • 28 July, 11:28AM

    robert

    Open QuoteWhat about Cheshire cheese? The real thing is great but some others are just salty

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  • 30 July, 7:52AM

    gingergarlic

    Open QuoteLardy cakes - and if anyone knows where you can get a good one let me know.

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  • 31 July, 10:59AM

    Nicola

    Open QuoteBakewell tart!

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