A French island for foodies

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Posted at 11:25AM, 01 July 2008 by Mary Cadogan - food writer

I'm writing this piece with great reluctance, as the small island of Ile de Re on France's Atlantic coast is still relatively undiscovered among British holidaymakers, and I selfishly would like it to stay that way.

We have just returned from a week's camping (no roughing it for me though, we had to take a trailer so we could fit in the fridge, half my kitchen, bikes, loungers and this year's acquisition, the collapsible wardrobe) and for the food lover it is paradise.

The whole island is dotted with little ports and harbours, beside which are pretty little restaurants offering dishes made with fish and shellfish that taste as if they have leapt straight out of the sea and into the pan. Oysters, crab, scallops, prawns, langoustines and clams all vie for your attention, and if you tire of these gems (as if), there is always a grilled John Dory (Dorade) red mullet or sea bass for a change.

This is definitely cycling for softies as there are no hills and you can make frequent pitstops for a restorative plate of oysters or a bowl of mussels.

This year we discovered Vanets, a local speciality which look a bit like small scallops but with delicate pinky-grey shells. We were lucky to find them as they are usually only in season in the early part of the year as they thrive in cool waters, so are one advantage of the prolonged cool spell we have endured lately. We cooked them in my big pot with a splash of white wine, garlic and parsley until the shells opened and ate them straight from the pan with loads of crusty bread and chilled Ile de Re white wine (thank goodness for the fridge!).

To really enjoy the island at its best you need a bike as the whole place is trellised with cycle lanes which take you through the vineyards, salt marshes and oyster beds that cover the place. This is definitely cycling for softies as there are no hills and you can make frequent pitstops for a restorative plate of oysters or a bowl of mussels. The best meal we had all week was at the La Rhetaise , a frankly scruffy-looking shack set in the salt marshes.

The menu couldn't be much shorter. You can have a plate of their own oysters, a steaming bowl of mussels or fish soup made to their own recipe or palourdes (small clams) steamed in white wine and drizzled with butter flavoured with parsley, tarragon and garlic. A generous tumbler of white wine and good bread are included in the very reasonable price, as is the feeling that all is well with the world as you cycle home for a siesta.

This island is all about simple pleasures and feeding the soul. Five- star hotel in Barbados? You can keep it.

Comments

Andrea

1 July, 2:45PM
Andrea

Oysters and mussels are my absolute favourites, this blog had my mouthwatering throughout! Can't wait to check it out sometime Mary, I'm glad you gave in to the temptation to keep it all to yourself!

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Dianne

2 July, 8:57AM
Dianne

Couldn't believe it when I read the blog this morning! My daughter is holidaying in the area at the moment and spent the day on the Ile de Re. She phoned me waxing lyrical about the place. She also went for a bike ride. Sorry Mary - she insists that her father and I pay a visit!

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Jeannie

2 July, 10:31AM
Jeannie

My daughter is going at the end of next week with her French boyfriend and his family - from our area of Poitou Charente a huge number of the French go to the Ile de Re or to Ile D'Oleron. She's been working on her tan all week to make sure she's not mistaken for a tourist! To our eternal discredit, although we are just over an hour away we have never been.

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Frantic Flapjack

2 July, 10:47AM
Frantic Flapjack

We have spent many times under canvas over the years in Ile de Re. It is quite simply heaven. We took our children there as toddlers and they learnt to ride their bikes there. It is just beautiful. Memories are the little fishing ports, ice cream in the villages, the lighthouse on the point, cycling next to acres of sunflowers, the French guy in the tent next to us cooking up mussels in a huge pan outside. We've done all inclusive holidays, but as far as I am concerned camping in Ile de Re is as inclusive as it needs to be. I wish I was there now .......

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Siw

2 July, 6:42PM
Siw

Mary, I agreee Ile de Re should be kept a wonderful secret, we stay with friends in St Andre de Lidon every other year (not far from you) and just love visiting there, the rows of oyster schacks along the inlets are a sight to behold, memories of mussles and oysters abound, deep joy. I followed your diary last year and relived every moment, roadside stall and market. Thanks for letting us into our world and yes keep the Ile a secret we don't want it spoilt. Memories....

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rose water

2 July, 7:51PM
rose water

A friend took me to Il de Re last year for few days. Loved it. Going back in September this year, I have to admit I won't be roughing it, but the three star hotel we use could put many a 5 star establishment into a cocked hat. Not revealing the details though.

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Carol

5 July, 2:38PM
Carol

We were there earlier this year and in September last year. Both trips we had lovely weather and fabulous food as you say Mary the seafood is lovely a really foodies paradise.

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Lettucia

6 July, 8:13PM
Lettucia

I'm native from the area (Royan) and even though I moved away long ago, I always look forward to coming home, and still absolutely love the local food. The fish and seafood is fresh and seasonal, and we always prefer simple recipes (such as mussels cooked under a bed of pine needles) which bring out the fantastic flavors. It's great to read about people from other countries enjoying this as well!

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Marola

6 July, 10:29PM
Marola

It all sounds wonderful! I was taken there the week before Christmas and everything was closed :-(

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Gina Hearn

19 July, 12:17PM
Gina Hearn

I am just amazed that a place that most people have never heard of - including me - should have attracted so many postings by people who have not only heard of it but who have actually been there. I know Good Food is popular but what a coincidence!

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