Good Food Blog

Mountain food

Posted at 11:06AM, 12 February 2008 by Mary Cadogan - food writer

For the next two weeks it seems as if all of France has shut down. The kids are on holiday from school and half the population appears to have packed up and gone skiing. This means that the closed sign has gone up in restaurants and shops, you'll be lucky to find a working plumber or electrican and even the village boulangerie is shut, a rare occurrence indeed, as they are are open even on Christmas day.

I've tried skiing twice in my life and there were loads of things I loved about it, just not the skiing. I loved the crisp dry air and blue skies against the pure white snow, I love the silence of the mountains and the curious fact you can sunbathe at minus 12. But most of all I loved the mountain food.

I can still taste the mountain sausages washed down with cold beer, the crispest pizzas in the world, but most of all I loved the tartiflette. For those of you who have not come across this dish it consists of layers of potatoes, crispy bacon, cream and chunks of reblochon, all baked to a gooey gorgeousness. Served with a crisp green salad, possibly just to offset the guilty pleasure of eating this sublime dish.

Reblochon is a mountain cheese from the Alps region of the Savoie and has a brilliant story to tell. The name derives from re-blocher 'to milk again' and this was because in the 16th century farmers would pay taxes on their milk production. They milked the cows in the morning to pay the tax, then milked them again in the evening for their own consumption.

The evening milk was rich and creamy and this was used to make reblochon, a delicate, subtle cheese with a pale yellow rind and heavenly melting qualities. It was given AOC status in 1958, which is good for us as the quality is protected. You can pick it up in most larger supermarkets and it is also good eaten just as it is, but bring it to room temperature first to get the best from its delicate flavour.

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  • Binder photo Fifi
    12 February, 4:48PM

    Fifi

    Open QuoteSorry, not about this topic, but a query. As I live in France, like you, could you tell me what product you use in recipes that require double cream or whipping cream. I am unable to find 'double cream' as we know it in the UK. Many thanks.

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  • Binder photo Mary Cadogan
    13 February, 8:57AM

    Mary Cadogan

    Open QuoteI admit finding the right cream in France is a problem. We have an organic dairy farm near us that makes thick double cream, but that's no help to you,I'm afraid. You will find creme entiere(fresh in plastic bottles, not the long life tetrapaks) that will whip lightly and can be used in place of whipping or double cream. Or creme fraiche is good for sauces or in recipes where a little bit of tang is not a problem, such as fruity ice creams and desserts. I also like to serve mascarpone mixed with a little whipped creme entiere or creme fraiche or fromage blanc in place of cream for fools,creamy desserts or with poached fruit or tarts. Hope all this is a help to you.

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  • Binder photo adoremyfood
    14 February, 2:03PM

    adoremyfood

    Open QuoteI also live in France and my local cheese shop sells a great double cream. If you have a cheese shop, you could try there.

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  • Binder photo Alison Wyld
    14 February, 8:47PM

    Alison Wyld

    Open QuoteI live in the Alps in the Isère region. Here the favoured way to make Tartiflette is to put a whole Reblochon on top - ie layer up all the other ingredients without the chunks of cheese, then lay a whole cheese on the top and cook in the oven. The cheese melts and oozes down through the rest of the dish. Serve with white vin de savoie to cut through the richness of the dish.

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  • Binder photo kindregards
    15 February, 10:14PM

    kindregards

    Open QuoteThe best part of skiing for me in france is the amazing food!

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  • Binder photo Gaya
    25 February, 12:07PM

    Gaya

    Open QuoteAlpine cooking is fantastic. I went skiing in La Plagne and there is a Restaurant in Plagne 1800 that makes fantastic tarteflette. I think its called La Mine. Also the cheese fondues are fantastic.

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  • Binder photo dippy
    26 February, 10:42AM

    dippy

    Open QuoteTarteflette made in the savoie region washed down by applemont is my idea of heaven

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  • Binder photo frachel
    4 March, 9:42AM

    frachel

    Open QuoteI need some help with cream substitution as well. I have many American recipes requiring half & half (in soups mostly) what French creme can I substitute?

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