Good Food Blog

Devilishly good potatoes

Posted at 4:56PM, 27 December 2007 by Mary Cadogan - food writer

I find it hard to resist a gadget but as my kitchen cupboards and drawers are already bursting at the seams, anything I buy has to fully justify the space it takes up, and usually something has to go to make way for it. My latest find was certainly worth the reshuffle.

While poking around in the local quincaillerie, an ironmongers with a sideline in serious kitchen kit (and the place to go if you need a huge pan for turning a whole pig into pâté), I found a terracotta pot that looked rather wonderful so of course it went home with me. The Charentais diable (or devil) is used for cooking potatoes and chestnuts and it turned out to be one of the nicest and healthiest ways of cooking potatoes I've come across.

Although it's an old fashioned thing it fits really well into contemporary cooking because not only does it not need any water or fat in the cooking, it also requires very little effort. All I have to do is tuck the washed and dried potatoes inside, whack it in the oven or on the hob (I use a diffuser if I do that) and then forget about it for around 45 minutes. The spuds emerge all crusty and brown, and as no water is used, the flavour is concentrated and the texture sublime.

My beloved diable has a cheeky pot-bellied shape, which is not always the case, and it also goes by other names such as the phenix diable potato cooker or the diable potato baker though they all work in the same way. Now I think I'll go and roast a few chestnuts…

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  • Binder photo Caroline
    28 December 2007, 9:41AM

    Caroline

    Open QuoteMy stocking was sadly bereft of kitchen gadgets this year but I'm still getting a lot of mileage out of last year's vegetable mill for the smoothest mashed potato around. This Christmas I also dragged my freestanding electric steamer out of the cupboard for the first time to heat through my Christmas pudding. It was so easy I don't know why I don't use it more often. Anyone else having any gadgets they recommend?

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  • Binder photo BB+BuB
    2 January, 11:09AM

    BB+BuB

    Open QuoteI did not get any kitchen gadgets this Christmas either. Although last Year as I love to bake my Nan got me a Cylindrical Flour Sifter. It is great! Last year I purchased a KitchenAid that I had saved up for. I cannot stop using it for making cakes, cheesecakes and whisking cream. OK, it was expensive but it will be used a great deal and it is very robust/sturdy. I am going into London next week to go to Jane Ashers cooking shop. Definitely going to do some damage to the plastic!

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  • Binder photo Belinda
    2 January, 4:42PM

    Belinda

    Open QuoteHappy to see Mary has discovered the potato baker. I'd welcome Mary's recipes for the Römertopf (cousin to the potato baker), which I inherited from my mother-in-law and I'm a bit stuck with the traditional recipes. And please, Mary, don't give up your diary! It's good fun to read, the recipes are always good (as yours usually are) and one installment make me think of when we tried green asparagus. White asparagus are traditional in Belgium and when we first made the green ones they were completely overcooked! Anyway, happy new year, to your good health and to many a low fat recipe in the Römertopf.

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  • Binder photo my choices
    2 January, 5:03PM

    my choices

    Open QuoteI did! In my stocking there were two silicon products, one days late would have been perfect to truss my guinea fowls. In lollypop pink they are 6 locking nubby silicon ropes which can also be made longer by joining them together. I also received 2 silicon egg cooking cups - something to look forward to using soon!

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  • Binder photo Jenny
    3 January, 10:58AM

    Jenny

    Open QuoteI've had a diable for more than thirty years (bought from Elizabeth David's cookshop in Pimlico), and use it almost daily. It produces fantastic-tasting potatoes whether used in an Aga oven or a microwave oven - and there's no washing up! My favourite new gadget is a panini grill - the discovery of the year!

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  • Binder photo squizita
    10 January, 11:10AM

    squizita

    Open QuoteThey say it only cooks 2 portions - is this the case? Or are they being cautious? I looked for a bigger thing and only found this, which doesn't quite seem the same: http://www.nicenosh.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=64

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  • Binder photo victoria132
    13 January, 12:42PM

    victoria132

    Open QuoteI was given a stick blender with mini processor. I use it a lot; so much easier than hauling the big blender or processer out. My other favourite is my electric griddle; it is so easy to regulate the heat, it cooks bacon beautifully, and makes lovely French toast!

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  • Binder photo crazyfox
    16 January, 10:49AM

    crazyfox

    Open QuoteI have a stick blender which i find very useful for blitzing soups and sauces. My steamer is another favourite of Mine. I was given it as a leaving present in 1997 and it stayed in the box for several years. I saw someone using one on TV and got Mine out and used it for the first time the next day. It's now used so much that the lid and one of the bascets has cracked, but it's still working!.

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  • Binder photo shez
    19 February, 12:06PM

    shez

    Open QuoteDidn't get a gadget this year so treated myself to knife sharpener. Can I add that I have been roasting/baking potatoes like this for about 19 years in a Denby cassarole pot with a lid so you do not have to use this pot to get the same effect. It works best for me with newly dug new potatoes. YUM

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  • Binder photo Mary
    8 March, 10:41AM

    Mary

    Open QuoteI also love gadgets. We live part of the year in Yemen and part in Scotland, unfortunately most of my gadgets and large cooker are in Scotland. I have a tiny electric cooker out here so bought a rice cooker to save space. Anyone any ideas on how to get the rice correct? I followed the instructions but found the rice a little dry, did my usual recipe and it was slightly better. Suggestions would be most appreciated.

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  • Binder photo marybarry
    11 March, 9:15PM

    marybarry

    Open QuoteIs it possible to buy these potato pots in england? Stockists in the north of England,please.

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  • Binder photo Katy
    20 March, 2:48PM

    Katy

    Open QuoteHi foodies, can anyone help me with my query?? i'm trying to locate the instruction booklet for an hinari hb161 breadmaker (was last seen flying out of the back window of the car on the A5!) i've called hinari but as the machine is no longer being manufactured they have no manuals! Could anyone either point me in the right direction to obtain 1 or the recipe for wholemeal bread?? lol thank u all

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  • Binder photo Outram
    24 April, 10:19AM

    Outram

    Open QuoteDoes anyone have any receipes for using goose eggs? I make flans, sponges and large batches of scones but would like some new ideas.

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