Good Food Blog
Menus
Posted at 9:28AM, 27 December 2007 by Gregg Wallace - TV presenter, greengrocerI'm guessing more people eat out at Christmas than at any other time - it's harder to get a table and my veg sales from the farm into London restaurants increase alarmingly. New Year's Eve's no better, menus become shorter, tables harder to find and taxis impossible.
Now I realise this greengrocer is in danger of turning into a Scrooge, later to be visited by the 'Ghost of Trimmed Brussels Past' but...
Festive season or not, there really is no excuse for pretentious menus. I don't need to know every cooking process that has gone into making the dish. Turkey with sprouts and roast potatoes should not read, 'New world fowl, plucked, seasoned and roasted. Served carved with baby brassicas lightly steamed and South American tubers, peeled, roughed and basted in the fat of geese'. This sort of stuff is silly, and so is the restaurant.
I'm particularly wary of the words 'fresh', 'homemade' and 'twist'. 'Fresh' is the dodgiest one, are they implying other items are anything but? Or, could it be that other items come from tins?
What about 'homemade'? Again, where has the rest of the menu come from then? A factory near Warrington?
And most worrying off all, the 'twist'! What is wrong with a classic dish, that it needs a twist? Who is this gastronomic wizard who thinks he can reinvent the wheel? The reason they are classics is they have been around a long while. If they have stood the test of time it means many people enjoy them AS THEY ARE. Anyone sticking peanut butter in a Caesar Salad ought to be shot. The only twist in a kitchen should be Chubby Checker on the radio.
And finally - the laminated menu! Good kitchens change their menus regularly, leaving no time for lamination. Maybe I'm biased but if a supplier tells a restaurant about particularly fine seasonal produce, they should take advantage of it and change the menu. A laminated menu smacks of permanency... no skilful cooks need apply. And don't get me started on Children's Menu...

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